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trenchdigger
Jun 13, 2005, 3:54 PM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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In reply to: Thus, if the lobes are of different sizes, then they must necessarily contact the rock at different heights.
This is all well and good in a parallel crack. It does seem to introduce some problems with irregular cracks - especially rounded flaring ones.
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renohandjams
Jun 23, 2005, 4:51 AM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: May 24, 2005
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I compared a BD camalot #4 to a Tech Friend #6 and they almost weighed the same, but the tech friend had almost twice the expansion. I think I'm unsure about the extra expansion if it is going to cost so much more weight. I don't know about you, but the real test comes in my hand, not the stats, or the feed back on paper or the web. I'll get one of each, and then sell the ones I don't like on ebay.
Check out which of these sells more on Ebay, Link, Super, or Max in a couple of months and then you'll know who the loser is.
I liked what was posted above vote with your wallet. It's one thing to vote for the link, it's another to fork out the $80+ for it. :shock:
-Kenny
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brianladd
Jul 29, 2005, 9:35 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Aug 25, 2001
Posts: 3
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I finally had a chance to play with the max cams that I have been hearing about from Seth and Trango and I am totally blown away. Way lighter than expected with more range than BD, I think! As well, with the independent axels they really work well in chunky or flaring cracks as they seem to morph to the sides of the crack. I really think these will become the standard. TRY THEM!
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dps
Jul 31, 2005, 12:39 AM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 116
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Max Cams
I've been using a #1 and #2 Max cam that our shop got in for about about a month now. Some impressions...
Great for belay stations and flaring placements where one set of lobes is cammed heavily. They place easily, but between 4 of us climbing on them, they have worn more quickly than my BD and Metolious cams. We've already had the protective plastic on the bottom of the cable come unglued and problems with lobes sticking. I like the overall feel of the cams and the ability to not worry about using my #1 and #2 C4's on a route and needing them at the belay.
When I do place them as protection on a route (that is not at a belay) I try to only place them close to fully cammed. Why? All 4 of us have had the cams walk when placed in the expanded camming range, even when equipped with a double shoulder length runner on a vertical crack at Vedauwoo. This seems to be only a problem when both sets of lobes are between 50-75% cammed, as flared placements are very stable.
My main concern is with falls that generate a fair amount of horizontal pull on a vertical placement. When the cam is placed with the lobes between 50-75% expanded (a safe placement according to Trango) and pulled hard to the side there is some weird off-'virtual' axis loading going on. I need to experiment with this more.
I like the Max Cams quite a bit, but I have some concerns which either more experimenting or finally remembering to call Trango will fix/turn me off from the cams.
Super Cams
I've only played with this in the shop and at a fake crack, so my impressions are extremely preliminary and in no way as informed at the Max Cams.
I love them. That said, I started on Metolious cams and still use TCU's over Aliens for most of my climbing. I appreciate the physics and simplicity of the design, especially the single axle.
Hopefully we will get some in soon so I can get them out to the crags and find out what they are all about.
Link Cams
No clue. I haven't had a chance to play with them and I am very interested in how the wear/tear on the many axles will be.
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madrock
Aug 20, 2005, 4:15 AM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 255
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None.
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