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yannbuse
Aug 22, 2005, 12:31 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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I was wondering if there were any fellow RC.com ers in the Chamonix valley. More importantly, due to the total shit weather, what have you been up to? Ive resorted to climbing aid until the weather clears up (will it ever?!?!). Also, coming back to the valley i had a couple routes in mind but due to the deteriorating conditions at altitude many of the climbs seem to be out; big rock fall on the Dru, 25cm+ of snow on most classic free routes. So i was wondering what routes did you plan on that won't happen... and also, what routes will you be doing instead?
crying myself to sleep
Yann
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astrange
Aug 22, 2005, 1:05 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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Go south young man!
Southern France (Provence) has plenty of sun and plenty of rock.
/Anders
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uasunflower
Aug 22, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
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yann - eashy chossy 'real' mountainerring routes should still be in - i.e. we did moine ridge up Aiguille Verte (bailed before the top) or went up Aig Ravanel & Mummery (although snow did chase us off before the last pitch as well from there). Harder stuff is...mmm harder. don't know how conditions are now, but we had fun on Piola routes on Moine Pinnacles - up to 5 pitches, stellar 6a-b-c etc., low and not committing (rap anchors often enough). Also probably vertical enough not to have too much snow, but may be dripping.
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uasunflower
Aug 22, 2005, 1:29 PM
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oh, and come to belgium if you really want to know what 'disappointment' means - two words, flat and wet...
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firn
Aug 22, 2005, 2:13 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2003
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The weather seems to never want to clear up. Its been crappy for most of the summer... I second the recommendation to go south. Provence is very fine.
fwiw, the weather shamans are predicting a long and warmer than usual autumn.
HC
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yannbuse
Aug 22, 2005, 6:52 PM
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Firn: indeed i have heard that the weather has been crap for most of the season. One of my hopes was to arrive late in the season hoping that the bad weather would have lightened up. bad call on my part. Apparently after friday it should clear up. Otherwise on wednesday we should have about 18hrs of decent weather, hoping for either La Vaucher on L'aiguille de Peine or the Frendo on the Midi. On a side note which is a little humourous, i hear there is a couple teams from eastern europe waiting in the rain at the bottom of the Dru hoping to get a couple FA pitches due to the rockfall last week (or the week before?) HAHA, hats off for sticking it in the rain for so long! However conditions are real bad up there, one of my climbing partners (really solid climber) got helicoptered of the dru, so the best of luck to the E. Europeans!
As for the Provence... i wish! i have no form of transport and just to come here cost me a bit (even if i got a series of freebies). I have a couple buddies that are king of skiing the Tacul or the Tour Ronde, due to the amount of snow! So it may turn out that skiing may keep me occupied through the rain/snow.
uasunflower: Glad to hear you had a go at L'aiguille Verte! Quite daring to do it in the summer... i imagine you had a very very early start to avoid the avalanches (especially with the amount of snow that has fallen). But kudos for the attemptThanks for the recommendation of the Piola Routes, i will definetly keep those in mind once the weather breaks. and yeah, the rumours are hard routes, are now very hard.
To the people in Provence, i am envious. Perhaps on another return home i will visit the area... im not familiar at all with it and would like to have some experience in the region.
Thanks for the tips!
Yann
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yannbuse
Aug 22, 2005, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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Damn it! i thought tomorrow was wedsneday and i was going to climb! i'll be at the bar...
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maldaly
Aug 22, 2005, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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Check out the weather in Cortina. It's often nice there when it's crap in Cham.
Mal
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