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bensnyder
Aug 23, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Which is your second strongest finger? Ring or pointer? Just curious because i've been noticing people using their pointer finger in 2 finger pockets instead of their ring finger when i always figured the latter was much stronger on everyone...
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deadpointman
Aug 24, 2005, 7:08 AM
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That's an excellent question because it brings up some interesting issues for me. My ring finger is definitely stronger when it comes to pulling straight down on a pocket that is directly overhead. However, depending on the shape of a two finger pocket and the direction in which I am pulling on it, the pointer and middle combo can seem stronger. And generally, if something feels stronger, I'm going to go with that. There is an exception though. As many of us know all too well, the ring finger is the finger most susceptible to injury (data from climbing injury studies confirm this). Having busted each ring finger in the course of my climbing career, I'm in no hurry to yard off of them unnecessarily. Therefore, if I can make a two finger pocket move without using my ring finger, I will.
Those I are my 2 cents. Anyone have very similar or different thoughts/experiences?
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josephgdawson
Aug 24, 2005, 7:30 AM
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I clicked on this thread in hopes of finding a definitive answer. No one has posted on yet. I will speak from my experience.
I can do more pullups on the two finger pocket on my hangboard with the middle finger and ring finger. I agree with deadpointman that when I am climbing, the finger I use depends on the hold. In general, if I have to pull on a pocket that away from my body (pulling with my right hand on a hold that is far out to the right) I go with the middle/ring combo. But, if the hold is near my body and more of a gaston king of move and only two fingers will fit, I tend to go with the pointer/middle finger combo. I think the pointer has more cooridination and it serves better for balancy body postion moves.
I am suspicious the ring finger is stronger in combination with the middle finger, but in isolation is is weaker than the pointer finger in isolation. On a mono pocket, I cannot imagine using my ring finger instead of the pointer.
Who has the definitive answer?
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icarus_burned
Aug 24, 2005, 8:57 AM
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i was surmise from my now famous desktop testing taht my middle finger is indeed the strongets of the fingers (excluding thumb if that was to be counted) but its far far easier to poke your index finger into a pocket without awckwardly jamming your other fingers and stretching various ligaments and tendons
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deadpointman
Aug 24, 2005, 10:49 AM
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In reply to: On a mono pocket, I cannot imagine using my ring finger instead of the pointer. Who has the definitive answer?
Really? For me it's the other way. So far I've been able to successfully deadhang mono pockets only with my middle and ring fingers (with the middles enabling me to add some weight). I haven't yet been able to do that with the pointers.
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overlord
Aug 24, 2005, 11:16 AM
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its not the question of wich finger is the strongest but wich is best used in the given situation.
in most cases using my ring finger is better because using my pointer seems to twist my wrist a bit.
and your strongest finger is your thumb :P
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tobym
Aug 24, 2005, 4:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: On a mono pocket, I cannot imagine using my ring finger instead of the pointer. Who has the definitive answer? Really? For me it's the other way. So far I've been able to successfully deadhang mono pockets only with my middle and ring fingers (with the middles enabling me to add some weight). I haven't yet been able to do that with the pointers. |
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dudemanbu
Aug 24, 2005, 4:22 PM
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mine's actually my pinky. Because i have fat ass fingers, it's the only one i've been able to fit into mono pockets and as a result has gotten much stronger than my ring or index.
just kidding. i do have fat ass fingers though.
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tomma
Aug 24, 2005, 7:04 PM
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My ring fingers seem stronger than the index ones, but:
if I use the index f. with the middle f. , the middle one takes greater load (I've never injured the index one in such a combination),
if, on the other hand, I use the ring f. and the middle, it is the ring f. that is more stressed, and I have pulled tendoms in my both ring fs a couple of times.
This may be due to some anomaly of my hands, though;-)
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grin-n-barrett
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Aug 24, 2005, 7:13 PM
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why?
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tomma
Aug 24, 2005, 7:19 PM
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nothing specific,
if the hold is big (a real pocket) in a roof or an overhang, I use the middle + the ring f., and if the hold is small (slight overhang/slab) I feel more comfortable with the index one (fear of injury?);
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tomma
Aug 24, 2005, 7:23 PM
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and of course: I would never use the combination middle+ring in a two-finger closed grip (with the thumb blocking the middle from above),
and index+middle (thumb on the index) is perfectly OK
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roddy82
Aug 25, 2005, 5:43 PM
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on pockets always middle and ring, but on micro crimps i sometimes use my middle and index (with the thumb on top) a little painful but usually effective.
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ozi_tradi
Aug 31, 2005, 6:24 AM
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this may be wrong but a freind told me that your pointer and middle finger attach to the elbow at the same place and your pinky and ring finger attach at a different place. which would mean that your spreading the wieght over more places of attachment when you use your two middle fingers. but like i said before this might be wrong.
btw i actaully use my pointer in monos and two middle fingers in two finger pockets.
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grover
Aug 31, 2005, 7:25 AM
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In reply to: btw i actaully use my pointer in monos and two middle fingers in two finger pockets.
You must have six fingers then. No?
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christophpahl
Aug 31, 2005, 9:40 AM
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Ring stronger than index. Even pinky stronger than index in the FIRST joint (index stronger in the second). Thumb by far the weakest - try to hang on only your thumbs!
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sparticus
Aug 31, 2005, 10:50 AM
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Actually that's "doumo arigatou" or "どうもありがとう".
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alpinerock
Sep 1, 2005, 1:56 AM
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In reply to: and of course: I would never use the combination middle+ring in a two-finger closed grip (with the thumb blocking the middle from above), and index+middle (thumb on the index) is perfectly OK
Really? i crimp with my middle and ring all the time, with the thumb overtop the middle finger. of course its really rare that i actually crimp on a hold even on harderstuff i usually open hand.
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rock_fencer
Sep 1, 2005, 2:06 AM
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I use my pointer finger but think ill try that ring finger idea.
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