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chitown_coop
Sep 29, 2005, 3:13 AM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jul 8, 2004
Posts: 59
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In reply to: Do what my friend did when climbing new routes with me: - Notice that your newbie partner was told to buy BD ovals and/or d biners when they asked "what biners should I buy?" And that they have several; more than any non-leader needs, to rack that gear they bought too soon, because they wanted to practice placements.... - Extoll the virtues of the keygate biner to this person at your earliest opportunity. Do NOT wait until the moment when you need a leaver biner; they will clearly see through the ruse. Aallow them to borrow a few key gates when you are with them, so they can see for themselves how utterly clumsy those notch gates are in comparison - Next time you have to bail off a route (or create an impromptu station), tell them someone must sacrifice a biner for the good of the many, and it might as well be the s--- notch gated one, and that they should think of it as a good thing, because with enough of these situations, they will soon need to buy new biners, and can then buy key gates.....
^^ Best advice on this thread by FAR!
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billcoe_
Sep 29, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Yeah: harpiegirls post was the funniest! I thought Tradman climbs post was very well done BUT it was serious.
To the guy who thought tradmanclimbs post was suppost to be funny:
Put the weed down dude. :lol:
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lofstromc
Sep 29, 2005, 4:42 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 528
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In reply to: isnt the place at the end of a route called a belay station? so you can belay your partner up, or set up to top rope, or even lower yourself. .
Three definitions:
1. The end of a route is called the "end of the route, or the top"
2. The place where you belay your partner up is called the belay station, provided you are above your partner, in other instances it is called an anchor.
3. The place where you lower yourself is called a rap station.
"Learn it, love it, live it."
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jimdavis
Sep 29, 2005, 5:21 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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In reply to: If it has at least a pin scar within 20 feet of the last bolt, place two nuts in it, and rap off. Don't forget to remove all the bolts on the way down... Don't install anymore chains or bolts then you have to people. It's really starting to get on my nerves. Bolts every 5 feet on a 5.7 slab are not really needed.
What do you define as "have to" then?
I bet when you were learning to lead, though; that well bolted 5.7 slab looked pretty good. :wink:
There are no "rules" to all this, it's all ethics and comfort levels/ Ego's.
Talk to the locals, see what their take on it is.
Cheers,
Jim
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superbum
Sep 29, 2005, 5:27 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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jump
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