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moonshine505
Oct 17, 2005, 7:30 PM
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climbing trivia...
Simple enough question...what was it, who put it up, where is it, did the grade hold or did it get the royal downgrade?
thx
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johnclimbrok
Oct 17, 2005, 7:43 PM
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wolfgang?
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overlord
Oct 17, 2005, 7:45 PM
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thats a safe bet.
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clayman
Oct 17, 2005, 8:18 PM
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What I want to know is what are the hardest trad and sport lines that are being onsighted today? This means without talking to someone who has climb it. Looking at a guide book and studying the route from the ground, ok.
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crankenstein
Oct 17, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Going by my terrible memory I would guess Punks in the Gym by Gullich.
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pbjosh
Oct 17, 2005, 8:31 PM
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Indeed, Punks in the Gym at Arapiles I believe in AU, by Wolfgang Gullich.
I remember reading somewhere a while back that through either "aggressive brushing/cleaning" or downright chipping, this route is now graded 13d, no longer 14a. Pffft...
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fracture
Oct 18, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Here's a list.
Looks like Ghetto Blaster at Frankenjura, from 1986, kept its 8b+ grade....
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daithi
Oct 19, 2005, 1:54 PM
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In reply to: What I want to know is what are the hardest trad and sport lines that are being onsighted today? This means without talking to someone who has climb it. Looking at a guide book and studying the route from the ground, ok.
Sport: French grade 8c.
Trad: Birkett onsighted an E8 in the UK in 2003. No idea internationally what the hardest trad onsight is. :?:
Not everyone would agree about reading the guidebook being OK for an onsight. Depends how much beta it gave you especially for a trad route if it mentioned specific gear.
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daithi
Oct 19, 2005, 2:01 PM
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In reply to: Here's a list. Looks like Ghetto Blaster at Frankenjura, from 1986, kept its 8b+ grade....
There is a cool story about Wall Street, the first 8c. After the route was put up, someone came along and enlarged one of the pockets making it easier. Wolfgang was pissed and ended up filling in the pocket entirely and repeated the route and gave it a grade of 8c.
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moonshine505
Oct 19, 2005, 2:24 PM
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hey, right on. Thanks for the replies. Fracture...that's a cool link, plenty of trivia/history to be learned.
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gerollblocker
Sep 20, 2006, 2:09 AM
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I know the first 14d was Action Direct, but what was the second 14d, and the first ascentionist, year ect. I also know that this thread is really old
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