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clayman
Oct 20, 2005, 11:03 PM
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Going out this weekend with a friend, whose a new leader. I was going to go down to the Gunks(best place for new leaders), but the weather looks better up in the Daks or over in NH this weekend. I have climbed quite a bit at both places, but I would like to hear, between these two spots, where people might take someone who is just starting out trad. My first thought was the Beer Walls/Chapel Pond area, however there is Echo crag. Can't decide.
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rossgoddard
Oct 20, 2005, 11:11 PM
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rainbow slabs off the kanc. check the routes db. on www.neclimbs.com
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pico23
Oct 21, 2005, 12:47 AM
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i'd say daks.
beer walls are the gunks of the daks. i've never actually climbed there. just checked it out. nothing like waiting in line in a place (the daks) where you can generally climb for weeks without seeing anyone else with the spread of routes over the park. anyway, you'll get your share of beta at the Beer Walls.
depending how well you find routes from the base via the guide book and also route finding on climb there are plenty of good options for the new leader besides the Beer Walls.
If you like slabs try Moxam Domes. 5.5ish slabs, no crowds, good pro. And the snakes should be gone by now. And if you want you can hang dog via TR in the Moxam quarry to end the day.
anyway, for new leaders the gunks are still the place to learn IMO. Nothing beats good rock with generally easy to follow routes and if you get off base there is usually someone kind enough to tell you "dude, if your supposed to be on that 5.6 route, you might want to get over a bit, you're headed up a 5.11R."
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phaedrus
Oct 21, 2005, 3:12 AM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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wonderwoman
Oct 21, 2005, 3:17 AM
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I've never been to the Daks, but I do love Echo Crag! It's where I started trad and there are many fun and well protected climbs there. Lots of easy and moderate stuff. It's one of my favorite places!
Have fun wherever you end up!
Tiff
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