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dc_climber23
Oct 24, 2005, 6:47 PM
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I've been toproping for about a year and am loving it, although I really only get to go outdoors about once every two weeks. I'm currently climbing in the Great Falls area of Northern VA/ DC, but am interested in getting into sport.
How good does one need to be to start sport? I would say I climb comfortably about a 5.8, maybe a 5.9 on a good day.
Is that too low grade to get into sport climbing? I'm not trying to hurt myself here!
Thanks for the help
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misanthropic_nihilist
Oct 24, 2005, 7:04 PM
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I'd say as long as you can find a 5.7 or lower sport route that's not runout, you'll be fine. I don't really think there is much to worry about going from TRing to single pitch sport climbing, as long as you're climbing in a popular (i.e. well maintained) sport climbing area. Just make sure you bring enough quickdraws up the route with you (plus a few extra, maybe) plus a daisy chain/sling to clip into the anchor (while you thread the rope through the chainlinks) in case there aren't any carabiners on it.
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misanthropic_nihilist
Oct 24, 2005, 7:05 PM
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Oh yea, don't back-clip either.
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dc_climber23
Oct 24, 2005, 7:09 PM
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What is backclipping?
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deltav
Oct 24, 2005, 7:21 PM
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You might want to take a class or get someone experienced to show you. If you dont know what back clipping, or Z-clipping is, then you are probably not quite ready for it. I'm not flaming you, just trying to keep you out of the obituaries.
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dc_climber23
Oct 24, 2005, 7:25 PM
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haha, I figured that was the case.
no big deal, i definitely plan on taking multiple classes in the area before beginning to seriously sport climb and purchase the gear.
That being said, my original post was an attempt to gauge whether I am of a skill level high enough to even begin learning about sport climbing, or if i would be better off sticking with toprope.
thanks for the advice
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saxfiend
Oct 24, 2005, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: haha, I figured that was the case. no big deal, i definitely plan on taking multiple classes in the area before beginning to seriously sport climb and purchase the gear. That being said, my original post was an attempt to gauge whether I am of a skill level high enough to even begin learning about sport climbing, or if i would be better off sticking with toprope. thanks for the advice
Buy or borrow a quickdraw and a rope (if you don't already have these) and spend a lot of time practicing clipping. You can waste a hell of a lot of energy on lead if your clipping isn't efficient.
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joshy8200
Oct 24, 2005, 8:04 PM
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In reply to: Buy or borrow a quickdraw and a rope (if you don't already have these) and spend a lot of time practicing clipping. You can waste a hell of a lot of energy on lead if your clipping isn't efficient.
This is some really good advice. If you've got a gym that allows leading...lead a couple of indoor routes before you head outside. Even if you practice clipping on the ground, it's a lot different when you're on a climb.
How much are you planning to pay for these 'classes'?!?! That sounds like a bit of a sham to me. Surely you have some friends at the gym that can show and tell you how to lead.
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markc
Oct 24, 2005, 8:15 PM
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Your climbing ability is less of a concern than knowing the proper procedures required for leading (proper clipping, anchoring at the top of the route, and transferring from climbing to lowering/rappelling). Some gyms may have a minimum ability requirement, but as long as you can find routes in your area well within your abilities I wouldn't worry about it.
As others have said, you can learn from friends, from the staff at a gym, etc. It all depends on what works well with your learning style and your budget. Take it easy and make sure you have a solid plan of action before leaving the ground.
If you can toprope 5.11 but don't know what the hell you're doing, leading is not going to be pretty. If you can only toprope 5.8 but you're safe leading at a lower level, there's nothing wrong with that. Routes will open up to you as you progress.
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auraseer
Oct 24, 2005, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: How much are you planning to pay for these 'classes'?!?! That sounds like a bit of a sham to me. Surely you have some friends at the gym that can show and tell you how to lead.
That's the policy at the gym I go to, anyway, and I'm fine with that. I'd rather pay $30 for their lead class and learn from someone who definitely knows what he's doing. Saving the money isn't worth the chance of being taught by some joker who forgets or doesn't care about some particular important detail.
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stevep
Oct 24, 2005, 9:03 PM
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In reply to: You might want to take a class or get someone experienced to show you. If you dont know what back clipping, or Z-clipping is, then you are probably not quite ready for it. I'm not flaming you, just trying to keep you out of the obituaries.
While backclipping is annoying, it's generally not going to get you in to the obituaries. At worst you get stuck and lowered very slowly. Of dangerous things one needs to know about lead climbing, backclipping is a ways down the list.
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dc_climber23
Oct 24, 2005, 9:31 PM
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OK, so the general consensus is that I do not need to be a 5.10 climber to climb sport, and it is a worthwhile endeavor for climbers of all ability; however, it is very important to learn proper techniques associated with sport climbing, as lack of knowledge (not skill) would be the only reason for danger.
It would also benefit me to climb sport runs that are about one grade below my toprope level?
This is what I have gathered from your helpful responses. Is my understanding correct?
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jt512
Oct 24, 2005, 9:33 PM
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In reply to: What is backclipping?
It's something, the ignorance of which, indicates that you should not be leading.
-Jay
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gene
Oct 24, 2005, 9:39 PM
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It's certainly never too early to learn the mechanic's of leading, and I'd say the controlled environment of a gym is a good place for that.
As a fellow Northern VA climber, I am sorry to inform you that you won't find too many sport-routes in this area that are 5.8 and easier. There's a few out at Franklin, and one or two at Nelson, but that's about it.
By all means - get started on the knowledge and practice, and then as you advance up through the grades, a cornucopia of outdoor opportunities will unfold for you.
Enjoy the ride - destinations don't mean much in this sport - it's all about the Journey.
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dc_climber23
Oct 24, 2005, 9:40 PM
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"It's something, the ignorance of which, indicates that you should not be leading.
-Jay"
Like I said before, my original post did not prompt the question of whether my current knowledge of sport was great enough, but rather, whether my climbing skill would make attemping to learn sport climbing a worthwhile / safe endeavor. I fully recognize that classes and mentoring under other climbers will be necessary for safe leading.
Although you did not actually respond to my original question, luckily others did, and it appears that skill level is not an issue, but rather knowledge which would come from learning under others.
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Oct 24, 2005, 9:51 PM
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youve been climbing a year and can only TR 5.9. im not trying to be mean but isnt that a little low. i mean ive been climbing about a year and am comfortable climbing mid-high 10's topping out at 11b. i dont know if you are trying harder routes but if you arent i advise you do. work on them if you fall.
as to the question are you good enough to start sport climbing. as long as you feel comfortable on the route and have confidence in gear and belayer then you are ready.
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bigevilgrape
Oct 24, 2005, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: youve been climbing a year and can only TR 5.9. im not trying to be mean but isnt that a little low. i mean ive been climbing about a year and am comfortable climbing mid-high 10's topping out at 11b. i dont know if you are trying harder routes but if you arent i advise you do. work on them if you fall. as to the question are you good enough to start sport climbing. as long as you feel comfortable on the route and have confidence in gear and belayer then you are ready.
thats mean, rude, ect. everyone gets learns at diffrent rate, no go home and have your mother teach you some manners.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 24, 2005, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: You might want to take a class or get someone experienced to show you. If you dont know what back clipping, or Z-clipping is, then you are probably not quite ready for it. I'm not flaming you, just trying to keep you out of the obituaries. While backclipping is annoying, it's generally not going to get you in to the obituaries. At worst you get stuck and lowered very slowly. Of dangerous things one needs to know about lead climbing, backclipping is a ways down the list.
This shows me that YOU do not know what backclipping is. If you backclip and fall on it, the rope can come upclipped. That doesn't seem dangerous to you? You are descibing z-clipping. Please do not give advice if you don't know what you are talking about.
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 24, 2005, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: youve been climbing a year and can only TR 5.9. im not trying to be mean but isnt that a little low. i mean ive been climbing about a year and am comfortable climbing mid-high 10's topping out at 11b. i dont know if you are trying harder routes but if you arent i advise you do. work on them if you fall. as to the question are you good enough to start sport climbing. as long as you feel comfortable on the route and have confidence in gear and belayer then you are ready.
You must be so proud! Is your penis big, too?
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deltav
Oct 24, 2005, 10:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: youve been climbing a year and can only TR 5.9. im not trying to be mean but isnt that a little low. i mean ive been climbing about a year and am comfortable climbing mid-high 10's topping out at 11b. i dont know if you are trying harder routes but if you arent i advise you do. work on them if you fall. as to the question are you good enough to start sport climbing. as long as you feel comfortable on the route and have confidence in gear and belayer then you are ready. You must be so proud! Is your penis big, too?
LMAO!!! That's the funniest thing I've seen all day,thanks!
Judging by his posts, he spends more time doing that than climbing.
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g
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Oct 24, 2005, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: youve been climbing a year and can only TR 5.9. im not trying to be mean but isnt that a little low. i mean ive been climbing about a year and am comfortable climbing mid-high 10's topping out at 11b. i dont know if you are trying harder routes but if you arent i advise you do. work on them if you fall.
Some people are born with traits that are going to lend themselves naturally towards climbing, others are not. One person may put the same effort into a 5.8 as you have to put into a 5.10 or whatever. Should I be more impressed with you because you don't have to try as hard as the next person on the same climb? I bet their sense of accomplishment will be greater than yours.
Is it about chasing numbers, or the love of climbing?
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ecjohnson
Oct 25, 2005, 1:06 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You might want to take a class or get someone experienced to show you. If you dont know what back clipping, or Z-clipping is, then you are probably not quite ready for it. I'm not flaming you, just trying to keep you out of the obituaries. While backclipping is annoying, it's generally not going to get you in to the obituaries. At worst you get stuck and lowered very slowly. Of dangerous things one needs to know about lead climbing, backclipping is a ways down the list. This shows me that YOU do not know what backclipping is. If you backclip and fall on it, the rope can come upclipped. That doesn't seem dangerous to you? You are descibing z-clipping. Please do not give advice if you don't know what you are talking about. Josh
I have to agree with blueeyedclimber, not backclipping is about the FIRST thing you learn when learning to lead. Like blueeyedclimber said if you back clip and fall you can unclip the rope from the draw and deck if you are close enough to the ground, or really run out. deltav, I'm not doubting your experience, but maybe you need to get some terms straight. Backclipping can be very bad!
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scottman13
Oct 25, 2005, 1:32 AM
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Buy a copy of "Freedom of the hills", it'll give you a load of info. Its widely considered the climber's bible.
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bigevilgrape
Oct 25, 2005, 2:00 AM
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Freedom of the hills is probobly not the book to buy if you are looking for information on sport climbing.
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