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handtraverse
Oct 30, 2005, 1:55 PM
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Question: what is the purpose or advantage of using quickdraws? :?:
Handtraverse
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"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
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climbingaggie03
Oct 30, 2005, 3:06 PM
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this is really trolly, but i'll bite, Quickdraws are most commonly used to connect the rope to protection, the sling is flexible so it allows the rope to move w/o moving the pro, and they are quick and easy to use.
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handtraverse
Oct 30, 2005, 5:26 PM
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OK, thanks. But wouldn't a set of small short slings do the same thing without having to carry the extra weight with you?
One other thing...I saw a pic of someone's TR setup where he used a grigri as part of the anchor arrangement. The only thing that I can figure is that the grigri would be a backup in case your belayer isn't paying attention when you fall, right??.
Let's see if I can show you the picture....................
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=62932
What do you think?
Handtraverse
http://www.fauxandwood.com/lynnandtom1.JPG
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You don't have to kick over the beehive to take out the honey - Dale Carnegie
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qtm
Oct 31, 2005, 6:38 AM
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Draws use very stiff slings, which make it easier to clip them to fix gear, like bolts. You can use quickdraws on removeable pro like cams, but only when the route runs a straight line. Because the draws are so stiff, they're more likely to make the pro walk if the line of the climb isn't straight, ie. a typical Gunks climb. There you would use a long runner, which is an open loop of webbing, much less likely to make your pro move around.
Long runners can be doubled or tripled up, so many trad climbers don't bother with quickdraws at all.
As for the Gri Gri, the simplest explination is that they are toproping off the Gri Gri. So the belayer stays at the top and they lower down to the bottom of the route and climb back up. You need to do that at some places where the bottom of the crag is inaccessible, like sea cliffs.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 31, 2005, 2:37 PM
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In reply to: OK, thanks. But wouldn't a set of small short slings do the same thing without having to carry the extra weight with you? One other thing...I saw a pic of someone's TR setup where he used a grigri as part of the anchor arrangement. The only thing that I can figure is that the grigri would be a backup in case your belayer isn't paying attention when you fall, right??. Let's see if I can show you the picture.................... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=62932 What do you think?
Handtraverse, I happened to check out this thread and saw my anchor pic. Basically what this is, is a simple way to set up an achor at the top of the climb and belay your partner up. I had just led the climb and topped out, and was then bringing my second up. The way you do this is, when you get to the top, you walk around the tree and pull up a lot of extra slack. Then you tie an overhand knot on a bight with the two sides of the rope which creates your anchor. You attach an autolocker to the bight which is what you belay your second with.
Any more questions?
Josh
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handtraverse
Nov 2, 2005, 12:59 AM
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Hey Josh, I hope didn't offend you in any way. The reason I posted your picture on a new topic forum instead of just talking to you in the same thread was because several times in the past when I asked a question or made a comment at the end of a series of discussions, I never got an answer...probably because the disussions were pretty much over.
I've read some threads in the past regarding anchoring and I remember one person describing the use of a grigri in his set up. And when I saw your picture I found it very useful in helping me to understand the set up better. I'm ALWAYS eager to learn more and as much as I can. :wink:
Handtraverse
_________________________________________________________
"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
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