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ridgeclimber
Nov 14, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
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I'm interested in what people think: is it safe to lower directly through an ice bollard? Or would the friction be too great? I suspect that lowering through a snow bollard would be a bad idea...
:?:
Thanks,
Ridgeclimber
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jimdavis
Nov 14, 2005, 8:54 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: I'm interested in what people think: is it safe to lower directly through an ice bollard? Or would the friction be too great? I suspect that lowering through a snow bollard would be a bad idea... :?: Thanks, Ridgeclimber
Ya know how a belay biner heats up in a lower.......
Ok, now you wanna do that to ice?
Ya know how ski wax works? By melting that top layer of snow so the ski glides on the water. Now add 200 lbs of force onto a 10mm rope, in a moving system.
I'm pretty sure you'll heat that ice up, cut down into it really quick, then cut all the way through the bollard. Not to mention forceing ice crystals into your ropes core.
Yeah, if we're playing good idea, bad idea...you know which one this is.
Besides, if your lowering...then you can use a screw or something, then take it out and rap off the bollard.
Cheers,
Jim
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rossgoddard
Nov 14, 2005, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2003
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having bailed off one bollard too many (one...), i try and avoid them at all costs. if in neve or snow, make it double the size you think you may need. 2.5 meters across isnt too big. If its powder snow, bury a stuffsack filled with snow, bury it one meter down, and do a dance to stomp down the snow.
If in ice, i'd make a v thread. more secure, faster, better feedback as to its integrity. valid counterargument is the LNT issue.
-harrison
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mccabeman
Nov 14, 2005, 9:26 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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They are not for lowering, they are for rapelling off of. Lead up, tie off, cut a bollard, rap. Don't use an ice bolard, use a thread.
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ridgeclimber
Nov 14, 2005, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
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Thanks all. Someone told me that sometimes the use v-threads or bollards as a belay anchor. I haven't done much ice, so I couldn't judge it, but it seems like they would be strong enough, if you have a couple of them.
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