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soberpete
Nov 17, 2005, 6:02 AM
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I have just started practicing jugging a fixed line with 2 ascenders. When I raise the upper ascender, I create slack between both and the lower ascender will not slide up the rope. What am I doing wrong? :oops: I have done forum searches and waded through Dr. Pitons posts, and have not found an answer.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-Pete
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rockguide
Nov 17, 2005, 6:23 AM
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You are not doing anything wrong ... until there is some rope weight below the ascender tends not to slide.
The solution? disengage the cam on the lower ascender with your thumb or forefinger (depending on which side the ascender opens) and it should slide up fine. Only do this if there is a stop of some type to keep the cam from opening completely and having the ascender come off completely. After a short distance the rope weight below should be enough that you will not have to worry about that.
Of course, you should be thinking about tying in short (clove hitch or fig eight on locker to your belay loop) about then, assuming that the rope is not fixed on the lower end.
Brian
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majid_sabet
Nov 17, 2005, 6:34 AM
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In reply to: I have just started practicing jugging a fixed line with 2 ascenders. When I raise the upper ascender, I create slack between both and the lower ascender will not slide up the rope. What am I doing wrong? :oops: I have done forum searches and waded through Dr. Pitons posts, and have not found an answer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -Pete
Whatever you do, make sure you put those biner on the jumar saftey holes so they do not come off.
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holdplease2
Nov 17, 2005, 7:15 AM
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Soberpete - be warned, after trying to aid climb, you're going to have to change your name. ;)
The boys are right. A little rope weight, and you'll be fine. Put those biners in the holes atop the ascenders as shown in the instructions. Important.
Also, from the git go, practice jugging as smoooooothly as possible. Think about all of that bouncing around as an opportunity for a sharp edge to saw thru your rope when you are cleaning a pitch or whatever.
And don't forget backup knots clipped into your harness. When you put in a backup loop...make sure it is already 10 feet long or so, as this will give you enough rope weight to make the jugging smooth. Or you could use a grigri for a backup. Just be backed up.
Have fun!
-Kate.
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soberpete
Nov 17, 2005, 5:54 PM
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Thanks everyone for the quality advice. BTW, I have practiced using the GriGri backup and tying off with figure 8's.
Kate, a name change may be in the works- hoping to climb Washington Column next year. :D
-Pete
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stymingersfink
Nov 17, 2005, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: Thanks everyone for the quality advice. BTW, I have practiced using the GriGri backup and tying off with figure 8's.
Use both. The GriGri makes it easier to set up a lower-out, but is not failsafe.
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holdplease2
Nov 18, 2005, 6:42 AM
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Right ON Pete! Just make sure to plan enough time on your trip...so that if set-up takes an extra day, crowds cost you a day, and your inability to haul/jug/lead/lowerout or whatever it is that gets you in a bunch costs you a day...you don't have to bail.
Just have the time to keep on pluggin, then keep on pluggin, and you'll do it.
:)
-Kate.
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flamer
Nov 18, 2005, 9:00 AM
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In reply to: Also, from the git go, practice jugging as smoooooothly as possible. Think about all of that bouncing around as an opportunity for a sharp edge to saw thru your rope when you are cleaning a pitch or whatever.
Listen to the lady!!!!
Just chopped a rope in the fisher towers yesterday....nothing like finishing a climb on a rope with a core shot, THEN having to rap with it.....scary shit.
Jug smooth, watch those edges, and god damn it have fun!!!!
josh
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far_east_climber
Nov 18, 2005, 12:21 PM
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Heh, talking about core shots. I was at a talk by Jerry Gore recently and he was describing him and Warren Hollinger topping out after completing the FA of 'Young Men On Fire' in the Bugs and a lightning storm comes along, strikes both of them and apparently caused a melted core shot in 3 points along one of their ropes and they hadn't even started their descent... woo...
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