|
bcliff
Nov 17, 2005, 9:31 PM
Post #1 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 11
|
Im looking into getting this package any input on the rock empire comet ,robots, or durango cams would be great. Thanks
http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=8&Page=2
|
|
|
|
|
klong
Nov 17, 2005, 9:49 PM
Post #2 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2003
Posts: 28
|
I have no experience with those camming units. Here is what I have and my thoughts.
1. set of dmm wal-nuts -- Great gear
1 Set of tri-cams -- Great gear
3 Alien cams (smallest) --- Awesome
1 Set of Hexes (wild country rocentrics)... Pretty good
Pluses are these slung, minus is these are slung..
1 Set of Trango flex cams (about 3 years old). These are adequate, except for the sizes 7 & especially the 8 have serious issues with walking. So they are good for the $$$ but, I dont even bother putting those sizes on my rack.
My recomendation is to get quality gear, check out the black diamond cams. I think for the extra $$$ you'll be happier in the long run.
Best of luck...
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 17, 2005, 9:52 PM
Post #3 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: I have no experience with those camming units..
Ditto. :P
|
|
|
|
|
klong
Nov 17, 2005, 9:55 PM
Post #4 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2003
Posts: 28
|
I took a better look. . They look just like the TRANGO flex cams that I have. My recomendation is to go look at some black diamond cams. They are more stable in the larger sizes. Even the smaller sizes seem to walk, just not as bad as the larger ones. The largest sizes also seem very unstable in some placements.
At some point, I'll be replacing the trango's on my rack with BD's...
Good luck.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 17, 2005, 10:02 PM
Post #5 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: I took a better look. . They look just like the TRANGO flex cams that I have. ...snip... At some point, I'll be replacing the trango's on my rack with BD's...
There's your answer. :P
|
|
|
|
|
schnoz
Nov 18, 2005, 3:19 AM
Post #6 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 20, 2003
Posts: 83
|
I have a set of Rock Empire Robot's, #1 -> #5. They aren't a bad starter set. No, they're not the best cams out there. However, when on a budget and stilll learning your personal likes and dislikes with gear, which is better:
1) Having a few, shiny and expensive cams?
2) Having double the number of cams that might weigh a bit more, have a bit smaller expansion range and (with the largest size) have a slight tendancy to walk?
That question can only be answered by you. There is no right answer. I chose #2 when I started leading, and it's worked out really well for me. I rarely use my cams due to the nature of the rock I climb often.
|
|
|
|
|
styndall
Nov 18, 2005, 3:54 AM
Post #7 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
|
I really like the old trango flexies, which is what the durangos are. They feel really solid, and the trigger action is great. I prefer my old #3 flex to my same-sized yellow alien in many placements.
The BD cams are nice, of course, but so is having an extra $30.00 per cam still in my wallet. I trust the trangos to hold a fall, and that's the only characteristic that matters.
|
|
|
|
|
thetroutscout
Nov 18, 2005, 8:12 AM
Post #8 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2004
Posts: 388
|
The durangos were the last year trango model. Any rock empire cams aren't going to feel a little cheaper, not look as pretty but will still hold a fall. They go through the same testing that all gear does and they pass. If you need some cheap cams fast then go for it. Or you could wait a bit, and save some cash. I really long the new trango's. Pretty soon Metolius will be changing all their cams to be lighter. This means they'll start closing out they current cams. I love my Metolius' too!
^^ike
|
|
|
|
|
pembe_panter
Nov 18, 2005, 9:05 AM
Post #9 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 5
|
My rock includes,
1 set of BD nuts,
3 smallest tricams, (great gear, as stated)
1 set of Rock Empire Robots and Microrobots,
1 set of Rock Empire nuts.
here are my comments,
Rock Empire slcd's are great if you have limited budget and starting trad climbing. (If you are lawyer, doctor, etc.. buy BD cams). I got 8 of them during sale period from
www.rockempire.com
for $199, less than half price of a BD set. Drawbacks are, their camming ranges do not overlap, maybe there should be another one in the range, (maybe 9 or 10 cams for the same range). Bigger ones tend to walk (so you should choose your sling length carefully).
As you learn and progress to difficult, R or X rated routes, you can replace your rock empire cams with more stable BD camalots which would free your mind when you challenge a whipper. Meanwhile you will learn to use your cams better also.
My two BD cams are on the way :)
sifa
|
|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Nov 18, 2005, 9:17 AM
Post #10 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
I owned 3 robots. I found them to be solid and well built. Very good value for money.
|
|
|
|
|
javaguy
Nov 18, 2005, 9:52 AM
Post #11 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2003
Posts: 48
|
Rock empires are good cams. They are not as smooth as camelot or as durable as friends. But they are safe. If you like them, buy them. A good thing about them are that they are easy to inspect thanks to the transparent plastic around the wire. Black diamond don't have this..And camelots rust more than anything!!
|
|
|
|
|
ajkclay
Nov 18, 2005, 11:45 AM
Post #12 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
|
G'day Mate, I'm guessing you ask because of a cash limit huh?
sure you probably know BD is probably best, but then if you had endless amounts of cash you wouldn't need to ask these questions right?
So, to answer your question, yep, Rock Empire cams are fine.
I regularly use a rack of them with my friend who has a full set of them. They are okay and will hold you if you fall, even the little three lobe buggers! Seen 'em work.
Sure they might be a fraction more prone to walking (bigger sizes) but if you sling 'em it's not really that big of a deal.
Go ahead, buy a set, you will be happy enough with them.
Cheers
Adam
BTW, I have a full set of BD's, half older style half C4's, and I don't really stress too much if we use my mate's RE cams instead of my BD's, it's not that big a deal.
|
|
|
|
|
far_east_climber
Nov 18, 2005, 12:14 PM
Post #13 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 873
|
Yup. RE Cams are fine. We only think they suck because of BD and WC's extensive marketing of their cams. Oh and yes... I do have a set aswell. No problems at all.
|
|
|
|
|
johngchrist
Nov 18, 2005, 12:26 PM
Post #14 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2005
Posts: 43
|
I have a set and have had no problems with them, Im actualy thinking about getting another
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Nov 18, 2005, 2:01 PM
Post #15 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
i carry #'s 2, 3, 4, 5, robot and a #6 pulsar. i like the robot's - they look and feel solid - w/moulded cam stops. the pulsar is light and i feel it would hold but i don't like the rivited stops and i have had a trigger wire get caught in the lobs and jam the action (albiet slightly).
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Nov 18, 2005, 3:10 PM
Post #16 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
I have a couple RE Flex cams (which are the same as the Durango), and they place and hold fine. any walking issues can be mitigaged successfully by adding a runner. I actually have a real smorgasbord of cams on my rack:
2 RE Flex, .25 and .5
1 trango Flex #2
3 Casin Cancams #2, #4 , #5
3 BD C3s, .25 Micro, #1, #2
1 Chouinard Camamlot #3
1 Alien, Yellow
1 Tech Friend, .75
each of these gets placed, and it's really more dependant on teh placement, than the cam type or brand that determines how much it walks, or how solid the placement is.
|
|
|
|
|
fng
Nov 18, 2005, 3:13 PM
Post #17 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 85
|
I have a full set with doubles except the largest 2 cams. Mine are robot and Pulsar with a few of the small single stem cams(can't remember name). Quality is solid and I have never seen a problem with them. My partners have BD and Aliens and we mix match a rack when we go. I have yet to find a place or situation where I could not use the RE but could use the BD or Aliens. They have held my falls and don't seem to walk much. If I had to do over again, I will probably buy mostly single stem.
They are fairly light as well. If you buy them, get the double loop slings, what a difference for trad routes.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Nov 18, 2005, 3:45 PM
Post #18 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
My first cams were RE Robots (before the milled stops, etc.). You can check reviews, but the consensus is typically that they're good for the money, but they have some issues. I found that there are isn't the overlap between sizes you get with other cams. The larger units don't feel as stable due to the spacing of the cam lobes (very close together). The finish isn't as good as other cams, but they're a good budget purchase.
If you look at both the RE Pulsars (not offered in that package), Comets, and the Durangos (old Trango Flexcam design), this is less of an issue. All are rated and functional, so it's a matter of personal preference between the three offered. Something to consider is if you prefer u-stem or single stem cams. I'd go for the units with a wider stance than the Robots, but that's just me.
If you'll be climbing on discount cams for a while, they're probably worth the investment. You'll be able to hit the rock with more units than if you go the expensive route. If you'll be replacing them in a year or can climb on your partner's rack, it may be worthwhile to wait. It's a personal choice. I hope you're happy with whatever you select.
|
|
|
|
|
telluryan
Nov 18, 2005, 5:21 PM
Post #19 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 194
|
i hate when my partner hands me his rock empire cams...i think they suck, but maybe i am a cam snob...
when talking about gear, safety, possibly your life...i will spend the few more dollars and get the stuff i know is tested and true.
if you are climbing in the desert and need a bunch of the same size, i guess they can supplement your rack, but i would start w/ something else...ie)BD or metolius cams...
just my opinion though....
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Nov 18, 2005, 7:43 PM
Post #20 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
In reply to: when talking about gear, safety, possibly your life...i will spend the few more dollars and get the stuff i know is tested and true.
I'm not trying to be overly critical, but technically speaking they are tested and true. They are certified, and several posters have stated they've fallen on RE cams. I agree with you that the finish is not as nice as other units. I've very clearly stated my views of the limitations with Rock Empire's cams in this thread and in the past, but I can't claim safety is one of them.
Respectfully,
mark
|
|
|
|
|
landgolier
Nov 18, 2005, 8:15 PM
Post #21 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
|
In reply to: I have a couple RE Flex cams (which are the same as the Durango), and they place and hold fine. any walking issues can be mitigaged successfully by adding a runner. I actually have a real smorgasbord of cams on my rack: 2 RE Flex, .25 and .5 1 trango Flex #2 3 Casin Cancams #2, #4 , #5 3 BD C3s, .25 Micro, #1, #2 1 Chouinard Camamlot #3 1 Alien, Yellow 1 Tech Friend, .75 each of these gets placed, and it's really more dependant on teh placement, than the cam type or brand that determines how much it walks, or how solid the placement is.
Holy shit, I thought my 5 alien/ 6 DMM/ 1 BD/ 2 WC rack was schizo. Reminds me of a very bored day when I tried to figure out if you could make a decent cam rack out of only one color cam from various manufacturers. The experiment concluded that there is too much information on the internet.
|
|
|
|
|
coyoteblastin
Nov 18, 2005, 8:36 PM
Post #22 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2005
Posts: 28
|
I have a set of robots and I have fallen on the #1 and #2 and they held me just fine. In fact my first lead fall I ever experienced was on a robot. I like them for the price but like other people have said they're not as nice as some of the other ones out their. So yeah they're worth it.
|
|
|
|
|
cruxy
Nov 18, 2005, 9:55 PM
Post #23 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 21, 2005
Posts: 62
|
I bought a set about three years ago and used them until I could afford better units(Metolius). I have taken falls on the RE and lived to tell the tale. They are trusty. #4 and #5 are not worth the buck, they walk. It is a quick fix, but not the answer.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Nov 18, 2005, 10:41 PM
Post #24 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
In reply to: In reply to: when talking about gear, safety, possibly your life...i will spend the few more dollars and get the stuff i know is tested and true. I'm not trying to be overly critical, but technically speaking they are tested and true. They are certified, and several posters have stated they've fallen on RE cams. I agree with you that the finish is not as nice as other units. I've very clearly stated my views of the limitations with Rock Empire's cams in this thread and in the past, but I can't claim safety is one of them. Respectfully, mark
He might be talking about their tendency to come out, not their breaking strength. It doesn't matter how strong they are if they fall out. The cam lobes are too close on the big units, end of discussion. This cannot be corrected with any length of sling. The Pulsars are a much better cam.
You can flame me, tell me to climb more, get more experience, and to stop being a n00b. That won't change that there is a very real safety problem with the largest Pulsars and Cassin cams. I'm not some gumby talking out my ass, I have spent about 150 days outside on the rock this year alone, one day was spent sport climbing and I don't boulder, guess what I was doing the rest of the time. Maybe I know what I'm talking about eh'?
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 18, 2005, 10:54 PM
Post #25 of 35
(4163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
ACME Climbing (isn't that the brand the Wyl E. Coyote always used to use?)
Their logo says it all... climb more, spend less (with skull and crossbones prominently displayed).
I'd rather spend a little more and climb a lot longer. I guess no matter what we do to try to get around the maxim "You get what you pay for", it always seems to come back around and prove the value of a "nickel's worth of free advice. "
Or, in other words... they're worth every penny you spend.
Now then... Can you read between the lines enough to pick up what I'm layin' down?
edit to add:
BTW, biff... you went to the trouble of posting a link to a website... how about posting a link to the particular page, with the gear you are referring to, so we don't have to try and find what the fuck you are trying to get us to compare.... or do you work for acme and just need to direct some traffic?
I suppose after looking at it again, it's the best you could do. Sorry to rant on you like that.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
