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pawilkes
Dec 9, 2005, 5:24 PM
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I am leaving for NZ in a couple weeks for a three month stint of traveling the country with my parents (1 month) and then climbing for a couple months. i'll be starting the climbing portion of my trip (20/1/06) with a few days to a week in Christchurch (Catle Hill, Port Hills, etc), then heading up to Paynes for most February, and making my way north to stay with friends and climb around Wharapapa and the Bay for a month or so. My question is how do ratings compare to US ratings? I started climbing when I lived in NZ ~6 years ago so I know about the scale and the conversion but it was a long time ago and I've gotten much better since then. I am wondering if there's anyone out there that has climbed in NZ and the US alot and can say if a 21 is really like a US 5.10c or whatever. looking at the grades of the routes in the guides it seems like the routes are pretty easy in NZ but im thinking thats just b/c they're sandbagged. any feedback on that would be appreciated.
on another note, if anyone in the Christchurch area is willing to put a me up for a few nights and/or take me climbing/bouldering at the end of January, please shoot me an email. I am not a huge boulderer but send around V3/4, sport climb 5.11's (about 24/25 as much as I can figure) and have lead trad up to 5.10a (18/19).
Any help with information, a floor to sleep on, a partner/group to climb with, good kiwi traveling/climbing advice, or a ride to catch would be greatly appriciated.
thanks
phil
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roseraie
Dec 9, 2005, 5:31 PM
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I think the grade comparison chart is somewhat off in the lower grades.
I'd say 17 feels about 5.9, 18 would be .10a. 20 is DEFINITELY 5.10d, it's that weird awkward grade, and 21 seems to be where that "5.11 ceiling" is. 22 felt like about my limit, 5.11b or so. Struggled on some 23s, didn't try harder than that. Other Americans told me that once you get to about 25, the comparison chart is correct.
Have a great time, especially in Paynes. I miss that place. :( (I've been updating the Routes DB about those areas.) Say hi to Make My Grumpy Cat Dance for me!
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pawilkes
Dec 9, 2005, 8:32 PM
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bump
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sbaclimber
Dec 10, 2005, 10:00 AM
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roseraie is about right. I have only really climbed in the NE US, but I would say 17 is either 5.8 or 5.9 (depends on the route), and 22 is definitely getting into solid 5.11 territory.
Might be able to do something about the end of Janurary too.........
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dough
Dec 10, 2005, 11:10 AM
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I dunno, grades seem to drift a bit. 17 always seemed to feel like 5.8 to me, 19 is mostly 10a but I climbed a couple that seemed more like 5.9.
I once climbed a 12 at castle rock which should translate to 5.5 but felt like 5.9 and I climbed a 23 at Jane fonda that should have been 5.11 but was more like 10b.
I was left totaly confused.
I guess what I mean to say is that you'll have to find out for yourself.
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sbaclimber
Dec 10, 2005, 11:42 AM
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In reply to: I dunno, grades seem to drift a bit. 17 always seemed to feel like 5.8 to me, 19 is mostly 10a but I climbed a couple that seemed more like 5.9. I once climbed a 12 at castle rock which should translate to 5.5 but felt like 5.9 and I climbed a 23 at Jane fonda that should have been 5.11 but was more like 10b. I was left totaly confused. I guess what I mean to say is that you'll have to find out for yourself.
This has actually recently become very obvious with the release of 2 different climbing guides within a few months of each other. The grades of many of the routes (especially in the PHs) can vary up to 2 grades between the 2 guides.
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dough
Dec 10, 2005, 3:26 PM
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The Port Hills....
Lovely memories. Except how polished the holds were at castle rock.
Still it's very nice to live a short twenty minute bike from the craigs ( Christchurch ) as opposed to an hour or more automobile ride ( where I live now ).
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pawilkes
Dec 10, 2005, 6:40 PM
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i guess the answer is that there is no real good gauge. i guess im not really surprised. thanks for the help everyone
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sbaclimber
Dec 10, 2005, 9:09 PM
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In reply to: i guess the answer is that there is no real good gauge. i guess im not really surprised. thanks for the help everyone |
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nzcragrat
Dec 21, 2005, 6:34 PM
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I would say 10c is 21. NZ is like the US and everywhere else in that different areas are not consistent with each other - and various rock types styles can do strange things to your grades.
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