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remi
Dec 20, 2005, 4:46 AM
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This post should probably go in the regional discussion forum but then noone would read it! Anyhoo was up at the Solarium on the weekend and we were going to do Sunblessed. Lo & behold the 1st bolt was chopped, and badly too with a big scar. Was it a retro bolt that got chopped or is it supposed to be there? Quite a run-out to clip the next one and I didn't really feel like breaking a leg in December an hours hike from the road.
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tattooed_climber
Dec 20, 2005, 4:57 AM
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are you talking about the first pitch> the big left leaning dyke?
the first clippable bolt has always been 7m off the deck.....if some one retro bolted and then it was chopped its all fare game..
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slavetogravity
Dec 20, 2005, 4:57 AM
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Thank God some one finally got around to chopping those. The better question would have been. Who the Hell put those bolts there in the first place? And why the hell did they do it??
The route only received about a 10,000 accents without any bolts being there.
Now it's back to way it should be.
Too bad about the scaring.
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slavetogravity
Dec 20, 2005, 5:14 AM
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In reply to: . Was it a retro bolt that got chopped or is it supposed to be there? Quite a run-out to clip the next one and I didn't really feel like breaking a leg in December an hours hike from the road.
You disappoint me remi :( are you saying that you hiked all that way and didn't do the route?
Yes it's a little run out to that first bolt but the climbing to it isn't hard, it's about 5.7 and unless you're a midget the stance for that first clip is decent.
To answer your question. Yes the bolts where chopped. They where chopped long ago and not only was the first RETRO bolt chopped but the second RETRO bolt was copped as well.
Now get back up there and climb it you panssy!! :lol:
If I'm being too hard on you, it's only because I care. :wink:
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tattooed_climber
Dec 20, 2005, 3:08 PM
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shhhhhhhhhhhh, be quiet aaron, your mommy may hear or find out you lead that! :shock: which "you didn't" :wink: :wink: :P .......hey dude, how about this coming feb 2nd, we go up and do the actual sunblessed route this time or something else on the backside(you'd be up for doing the route again eh?>)
ryan, it is very easy climbing, just a bit awkward(left leaning dyke)....but BIG BIG BIG ledges all the way to the first bolt.....or get yourseld TWO grappling hooks (not cliffhangers) and aid to the first bolt, and free the rest
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paulc
Dec 20, 2005, 4:03 PM
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In reply to: ...or get yourseld TWO grappling hooks (not cliffhangers) and aid to the first bolt, and free the rest
Who in their right mind would aid slabby 5.7? Suck it up, if you can free climb well protected 10a gear then 5.7 should be a walk in the park.
Paul
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crankenstein
Dec 20, 2005, 4:10 PM
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I'm interested in this because I thought Sunblessed was one of the best climbs I did there in 1996. I remember the first bolt being about 40 feet up and slightly gripping to get there. Were there other bolts added since then? What a fine climb, and too bad about the scarring.
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remi
Dec 20, 2005, 4:14 PM
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Good to know, I'll do it next time, as long as that 2nd bolt is still there...we started up that 11a over to the left and then realized that wasn't it, then it was about 2.30 and we just weren't in the mood anymore. Now I know what to expect, but when we looked at it and the bolt was chopped and the other one was way up there it was like 'let's go home.' Did get up Sunshine Breakfast, that was alright.
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slavetogravity
Dec 21, 2005, 12:09 AM
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In reply to: .we started up that 11a over to the left and then realized that wasn't it, then it was about 2.30 and we just weren't in the mood anymore.
If you can manage to slug your way up that 11a mixed variation on the left, you should be able to reach that first bolt in your flip flops. :lol:
When you do Sunblessed, I highly recommend you do the left 10a variation for the third pitch. Much better then the 10b corner.
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giza
Dec 21, 2005, 12:17 AM
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That 1st bolt is far off the ground. The lower bolt that has been removed is now a flaring, blown out hole. With icy conditions and having never climbed it, we figured we'd wait for warmer weather to get on it. BTW, I've got your touque and gloves in the van Remi.
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remi
Dec 21, 2005, 3:59 AM
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Sweet, I'll grab that toque & stuff next time I see you. I'll lead that route next time now that I know what to expect. I think the mad chopper may have missed his target though, the 11a we tried could be protected by gear, it'd be more strenuos, yet it's bolted all the way? Maybe he/she are on there way back to sort that one out.
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shutupandclimb
Dec 21, 2005, 6:02 AM
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In reply to: When you do Sunblessed, I highly recommend you do the left 10a variation for the third pitch. Much better then the 10b corner.
I haven't done the corner, but the .10a pitch sure was good. Interesting and fun.
In reply to: I think the mad chopper may have missed his target though, the 11a we tried could be protected by gear, it'd be more strenuos, yet it's bolted all the way? Maybe he/she are on there way back to sort that one out.
I found this strange as well. Right beside eachother and both FA by Robin Barley. The .11a sure was a rough layback, I don't think I could have done it placing gear.
Dave
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remi
Dec 22, 2005, 2:43 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: When you do Sunblessed, I highly recommend you do the left 10a variation for the third pitch. Much better then the 10b corner. I haven't done the corner, but the .10a pitch sure was good. Interesting and fun. In reply to: I think the mad chopper may have missed his target though, the 11a we tried could be protected by gear, it'd be more strenuos, yet it's bolted all the way? Maybe he/she are on there way back to sort that one out. I found this strange as well. Right beside eachother and both FA by Robin Barley. The .11a sure was a rough layback, I don't think I could have done it placing gear. Dave
Laybacking! of course! You magnificent bastard, here's me & giza trying to jam the thing like fools. p.s. next person up scatterbrain that biner is yours...we scampered like little girls, chief 1 us 0
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