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clayman
Dec 29, 2005, 10:53 PM
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I consistently climb 1 or so grades lower on steep overhangs. Any ideas on how to rectify this?
cl
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arrowhead
Dec 30, 2005, 3:20 AM
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Do more bouldering, as it helps you to build the strength needed for climbing overhangs.
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raymondjeffrey
Dec 30, 2005, 3:40 AM
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Yea bouldering would help all aspects of your climbing, but as always climb the stuff that you have trouble with and you will improve. Near Phoenix is a crag named Homestead and there are plenty of great 'overhangy' routes to practice on. Get out here to Arizona and let's go.
Jefro
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dudemanbu
Dec 30, 2005, 3:50 AM
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also, work on your overhang footwork, like toe hooks.
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michael_c
Dec 30, 2005, 3:57 AM
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Few things to remember for overhangs.
1. Hang on straight arms when shaking out.
2. When you shake out also take the time to stablise your breathing and heart rate (good for any climbing really)
3. Don't bring your feet high unless you have to, it usally wears out your arms faster.
4. And be extra careful not to overgrip as your usally really relying on your grip strength/endurance to complete the route.
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rockrat_co
Dec 30, 2005, 5:39 AM
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OOOOO Ive just got to say it:
"Just Do It"
Please note: I realize that it is not that easy, just got the strangest urge to say that, I wish you great luck on your quest for improvement!
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thomasribiere
Dec 30, 2005, 10:01 AM
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Train your power more, then power-endurance and train your abdominal muscles too to stick to the wall and to better use your feet.
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sg81hani
Dec 30, 2005, 1:33 PM
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i'm not good at toe hooks when i'm leading a route on the overhang / roof. Any good training for that? I always tend to overuse my arms....
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tobym
Dec 30, 2005, 2:12 PM
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In reply to: i'm not good at toe hooks when i'm leading a route on the overhang / roof. Any good training for that? I always tend to overuse my arms....
Practice toe-hooking more,
and relying on your arms less.
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overlord
Dec 30, 2005, 2:16 PM
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did a search for you, see if you find any usefull info:
thread1
thread2
thread3
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ninja_climber
Dec 30, 2005, 2:19 PM
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If its a roof than keep your arms straight so that you rest on the bones not the muscles.Practice your toe hooks and work on your chest and back muscles. Boulder a lot on really stretchy and/or really cramped routes if you want to train these mucles without going to the gym.
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andy_reagan
Dec 30, 2005, 2:24 PM
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don't overgrip! 8^)
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Dec 30, 2005, 2:37 PM
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Go to the Gunks.
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clayman
Dec 30, 2005, 3:42 PM
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wow, thanks for all the advice. Can't wait to give it a go tomorrow at the gym.
cl
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sactownclimber
Dec 30, 2005, 3:55 PM
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In reply to: Few things to remember for overhangs. . . . 3. Don't bring your feet high unless you have to, it usally wears out your arms faster.
I'm not too sure about this one. Usually you want to keep your feet high on the steeps since being all stretched out engages your core and will wear you out faster than anything else. It takes a lot of core strength to do a plank - stretching your body out on the steeps is a very similar.
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ajkclay
Jan 2, 2006, 2:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Few things to remember for overhangs. . . . 3. Don't bring your feet high unless you have to, it usally wears out your arms faster. I'm not too sure about this one. Usually you want to keep your feet high on the steeps since being all stretched out engages your core and will wear you out faster than anything else. It takes a lot of core strength to do a plank - stretching your body out on the steeps is a very similar.
sactown is right, sorry michael (maybe you didn't see the steep bit) but you do need your feet up higher for the reasons mentioned.
also, give gravity less to grab, and your core less work; turn sideways and flag, presenting your sides to the ground rather than your back, you don't bend as easy sideways as you do backwards.
also, if the holds permit, try holding on with your downside arm and having it bent at 90 degrees across your body
cheers,
Adam
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