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marc801
Dec 22, 2005, 10:35 PM
Post #26 of 27
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
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In reply to: the only thing you can say with any certainty is that a pitch will almost never be longer than 60m. I have never come across one anyway. Back in the day......when a 165' (50m) rope was standard for most folks, White Punks On Dope in the Needles was infamous for having a 190' pitch - the norm was to simul-climb it. At some point, a new bolted belay was created at 165' which eliminated the simul-climb but basically created a new 25' pitch. In a similar vein, most parties that used a 50m rope on the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne did a short 20' pitch to shift the belay higher in order to avoid an awkward hanging belay on the next pitch afterward. So....it all depends.
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daithi
Dec 30, 2005, 7:48 PM
Post #27 of 27
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Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: you need 5 to 10 m for the dynamic belay. :!: Is that what you call it when you drop your leader 10 m? :) No, this is what you need when you climb a trad route with quite a few (and bad) placements. Try holding a fall on that on a Gri-Gri and you might kill that poor bastard which had the bad idea to lead on your belay. 10 m is excessive! If you have enough room to be able to drop him another 10 m there must be so much rope out the fall factor can't be that large.
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