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midwestishell
Jan 6, 2006, 12:14 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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What's up?
A few of us were thinking about heading to the Bugs in early June. We have now been strongly advised not to waste our time there this time of year. In fact, I just heard that the best time to head in there isn't until September.
This is the only time my partners and I have to go. Should we bail on the bugs? What other area would be open that early in the season?
Thanks.
Thom
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graniteavenger
Jan 6, 2006, 12:24 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2004
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Do you like snow? Can you deal with verglassed slabs? And do you ski or snowshoe? I don't want to rain on your parade, but these are all considerations that you will have to deal with.
I was up near Pemberton in June, Mt Athlestan, and it was VERY snowy (even with the crap winter we had).
That said, there are lower peaks, or ones that are closer to the coast that would be a bit clearer (Habrich, SkyPilot, Yak, Fitzsimmons, Fissile), or you could get some multipitch climbing in (get you used to moving fast with a tiny rack whilst wearing a pack), get fast for when the alpine rock routes are in condition, so you can get alot of good weekend trips in.
Just a few ideas so you don't make all the effort to go somewhere in vain.
Good luck.
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joek
Jan 6, 2006, 12:43 AM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2003
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i heard early June is the BEST time to go.
if nothing else, i hear johnsons shut-ins is awesome that time of year.
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giza
Jan 6, 2006, 12:55 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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In reply to: i heard early June is the BEST time to go. if nothing else, i hear johnsons shut-ins is awesome that time of year.
Early June is not the best time to go dude... the season generally starts at the end of June and ends in late September. But having said that, conditions in early June could be good this year.
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slavetogravity
Jan 6, 2006, 1:05 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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June is a GREAT time of year to be in the Bugaboos. To the guy who said that September was the best month. All I got to say is this. How big is that crack pipe you've been smoking??
September sucks! The glaciers are all down to bare ice. and the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col is a rock dodging horror show shooting gallery!!
In June the days are long, the crevasses are all still covered, and the weather can be JUST FINE.
Unless it's a high snow year (which it hasn't been) all the snow should be melted off all the routes buy late June. Unless you're going in there to climb some low angle 5.4 P.O.S. your not going to encounter much snow on route. And even the routes that could still have snow of them buy that time of year are going to have it in areas where avoiding it shouldn't be a problem.
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midwestishell
Jan 6, 2006, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Thanks for the beta! From your responses, its is a gamble to head up there in early June. Correct?
As a back up- do any of you know if the Tetons have good weather this early. I have climbed there in July and faught off the daily afternoon thunderstorms. (we are driving up there from the midwest, these would actually be on route for us)
Thanks again,
Thom
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ozarkclimber
Jan 6, 2006, 7:13 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2003
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how's the wind river range during june??? maybe an alternative. also, i heard the sierra nevada's have a lot to offer, but i don't know much about the range at all. sounds like alpine is a priority...
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crankenstein
Jan 6, 2006, 7:38 PM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2002
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The possibility of climbing in any range in North America in June varies year by year. If there is late snow, the approaches can be horrible. For the most part, steep south facing rock is climbable in early June almost anywhere, but there are so many factors that go into the equation. June is often an unsettled month for high peak climbing as far as weather goes. Your best bet is to inquire about conditions prior to your trip and being ready to improvise as necessary. If Canada is your ultimate destination, then the worst case is that you may have to climb in Squamish or on lower rocks around Canmore. I'd say the worst case sounds pretty inviting given that there are some awesome climbs to do there.
Good luck on the Bug's though. Once apon a time I wanted to go there in June, but conditions weren't good that year.
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