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alpine_monk
Nov 28, 2005, 12:01 PM
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when I first saw these I thought they looked like they would have to much pick shift to be of much use. I got to try a pair today and they have almost zero shift. this tool RULES. less pick shift than the mantis or the quark ergos. I am yet to try these out on ice but i will report back when I do. I went dry tooling with them today, so I had all the weights off, but you can add skrew-on weights to the pick for swing balance.
Dorian
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sfotex
Dec 18, 2005, 3:52 AM
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Have you got out with the nomic's yet? I'm thinking of getting a pair.
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sfotex
Dec 22, 2005, 12:43 AM
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Ok,
I bit the bullet and ordered a pair sight unseen after talking to the guys at Shop Core in Cody, Wy. I'm already worried about the lack of a hammer, but I guess it's evolution:
First the leashes go, then the adze, then the hammer. What next, the pick?
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alpine_monk
Dec 22, 2005, 12:28 PM
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In reply to: Ok, I bit the bullet and ordered a pair sight unseen after talking to the guys at Shop Core in Cody, Wy. I'm already worried about the lack of a hammer, but I guess it's evolution: First the leashes go, then the adze, then the hammer. What next, the pick? |
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alpinestylist
Dec 22, 2005, 12:53 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
Posts: 193
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Grivel Taakooons...they are the path.
Have fun
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k0b3
Jan 18, 2006, 4:11 PM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
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I had the opportunity to test Petzl Nomic for 2 days in France, in a climbing meeting (ICE 2006) held in L'Argentiere la Bessee. Being a Quark user (2005 model without leashes but with hand rest), I was very interested about this piece of equipment, especially because I also had the chance to test Ergo.
I am a regular climber, doing grade 5 on ice and M6+ on dry.
The tools are amazing:
Strong points:
1. very good balance, with the possibility to adjust it by adding weights directly on the pick
2. good grip
3. the chance of hurting is reduced because the hammer was removed. After all, you don't need it on dry tooling :)
4. excellent for dry tooling, competitions and hard ice routes
5. super light!
6. only one type of pick for all the uses (ice, dry)
Low points:
1. I have a very strange feeling that the material used to cover the grip is not so resistant
2. Not good for long mix routes where you could be obliged to put some pitons (no hammer)
3. The plastic from the upper grip is not protected in the area where you could rub it on the rock (Ergo had some metallic part there)
Overall: excellent tool, just looking to buy a pair!
Keep climbing!
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kungfuclimber
Jan 19, 2006, 6:12 PM
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I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice).
Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.
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jimdavis
Jan 20, 2006, 12:10 AM
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In reply to: I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice). Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.
Did you try them with the weights and have the same problem?
Just curious,
Jim
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sfotex
Jan 24, 2006, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
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Being so lite the nomic isn't going to sink as well as a heavy tool (physics...) but the pick is nice and sticks well. I also tore up the rubbery stuff on the upper grip within 2 minutes of getting the tools, I just tore it off and put on hockey tape....
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sfotex
Jan 24, 2006, 11:23 PM
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By 'stick' I meant a light tool isn't going to sink deep as 'easily' as a heavy tool in hard ice.
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boulderinemt
Jan 26, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2003
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i really like these tools. i demoded aaron's pair from core, and loved them. my only bitch is that both picks got bent while they were under my care, and really, nothing happened to make this possible. damned if i know, maybe it was someone else, and it was just noticed when i brought them back. anywyay, they swing much like the grivel tools, thanks to the head weight. another bitch, for me, and for ice climbing around cody, is that there are many rollers to get to pitches (i don't mixed climb i just like going leashless for traverses, and whatnot) and there is no spike, fang, or even roughed up edge on the bottom of the tool to grab on the head and walk with them. this was resolved by turning the tool upside down, but this just seemed akward to me, anyway, great tool, and im thinking about ordering me a pair :wink:
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giano
Feb 7, 2006, 1:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 31
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In reply to: I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice). Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.
I had the opportunity to test Nomic the last Sunday and I hadn't a very good impression: it is a beautiful tool (with a good pick, an ergonomic handle and a nice look) but I have two remarks to do: 1- it isn't very lightweight (635g); 2- it isn't well balanced, I feel the weight on the middle of the shaft and not on the pick!
I've got a pair of Cassin X-Dry an I think they are better: only 540g and very well balanced. And if you give a look to Nomic you can understand that its shape is very similar to Cassin: the same handle with the same angle between the pick and the handle, the same pick shape with the same teeth near the shaft! I think that Petzl had simply copied a lot of features of Cassin!
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mig
Feb 10, 2006, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 15
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I test NOMIC last weekend. I really like it!! I feal very confortable with them and for me that are really good tools.
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