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z_rock90
Jan 30, 2006, 3:48 AM
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I will hopefully have this by next fall.
Black Diamond C4's .4-4
MetoliusTCU's 00-4
Metolius curved hexes 1-10
Black Diamond stopper set 4-13
5 trad draws with super flys "24 in runners"
15 super fly racking biners
any suggestions, what to buy, what not to buy, Exc.
I already have a gear sling, A PAS, 8 quickdraws and 2 trad draws, and 2 extra lockers.
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taller_climber_dude
Jan 30, 2006, 8:47 PM
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well i didn't see anything about any runnerS 24', 48' or how ever long you like. they do come in handy when your cllimbing deep cracks and certain overhangs and when you have to place far left or right of your last placement so you can keep the rope in a straight line to prevent all sorts of zig zagging of rope to each placement. i woundn't use a runner longer then 48' unless their is a special part of a climb you might needa longer one. you can make them out of webbing. work just as well and cost less. a set of alien micro cams are very good to have, they hold well
In reply to: when the blood on our hands is bright red and the pain is to much to withstand we jam just as hard as the last and deeper to reach a higher goal. |
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climbinginchico
Jan 30, 2006, 9:18 PM
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If those are the cams you prefer, then cool, go with them. I use Camalot C4's and aliens personally. I also have a set of C3's on the way.
The smaller hexes are probably unnecessary, but if you like them and think you will actually use them, then go ahead. I don't own any because I didn't find them that useful for leading. But I have used them, and dont find them that useful for leading. For anchors, they are great. I would probably only get 7-10 if I had to get hexes.
I would get enough superfly racking biners to deal with all your cams. I count 7 Camalots, and 5 Tcu's... you do the math.
Get another ovalwire biner so you can split up your BD stoppers onto 2 biners. It reduces the cluster factor, and makes it easier to select the right stopper. I would also get another to rack with if you get the hexes 7-10, and 2, maybe 3 if you decide to go with the full set.
I would definitely get at least 5 more trad draws. I have, on occasion, used upwards of 13 on a full 70m hard trad pitch. I prefer mammut slings, but the WC 10mm ones are nice too. In addition to 10 regular 24" length trad draws, I would also make a couple with the mammut 48" sling and superflys. Just do the trad draw "trick" twice- voila! a short, easily extendable 48" sling that takes up no more room than a regular trad draw.
Do you already have a cordalette? I LOVE the Wild Country 10mm dyneema sewn sling. They make one that's huge- like 14 feet or something, and it is my favorite. It is stronger, cant come untied, and takes up roughly half the space of a regular 7mm cordalette.
Do you have a nut tool? I have a BD tool, but also really like the Trango shark and will be getting one soon.
Do you have lockers already? I have a bunch of BD positron screwgates... Love em. They are reasonably light, and keylock. You might also like the superfly locker... only 41g!
How do you like to rack? Harness? Gear sling? These are just some things to consider... Of course, I am assuming that you already have the basics- harness, shoes, chalk, belay device, etc.
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z_rock90
Jan 30, 2006, 10:22 PM
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I edited my first post to make things more clear. what aliens would you get? green-red?
thanks for the info
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climbinginchico
Jan 30, 2006, 11:37 PM
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In reply to: I edited my first post to make things more clear. what aliens would you get? green-red? thanks for the info
I use aliens from Blue-orange, with hybrids, and they work great. As a beginner, green-red is probably a good starting point. The .5 C4 and the red alien double that size, as well as the .4 and yellow. The orange alien matches with the .75 Camalot. I believe the 00 TCU is the same size as a black alien, but I might be mistaken. You won't need anything smaller than blue for starters, unless you're immediately going to be a hard 10's trad leader.
In addition, I still recommend having a total of at least 10 trad draws. As a new leader you will hopefully be placing gear fairly often, and slinging it is always a good idea. I always sling anything passive I do to reduce the possibility of it shifting. And I would still get 2-3 double length mammut 8mm slings.
I would also get a few more lockers, like 3-5 more. I love to use lockers in anchors. Put it this way: I use a cordalette to equalize my anchor. I clove into the shelf (1 locker used), clip my daisy, PAS in your case to the powerpoint (2 lockers used). Then I hang my autoblocker from the powerpoint (3 lockers used, since I'm not counting my regular belay biner) and like to have an extra locker ready for the second to clove into when they get to my anchor (4 lockers). And I like to have extras around in case there is a situation that requires them (the rope MUST NOT come unclipped from a piece, for instance). I normally carry about 6, not including my belay biner, on a longer multipitch. Sometimes I will keep descent shoes and water bottle on one, just to have an extra.
Now that I mention cordalettes, you should get at least one, preferably 2. buying 7mm perlon is cheaper, but for $20 you can get that long WC sling I mentioned before.
I would still not get the hexes and sink that cash into more trad draws, lockers, and cordalettes.
Good luck, and welcome to becoming a gear whore!
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turfguy
Feb 6, 2006, 7:20 PM
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I would get some aliens. Also I have a set bd stoppers and metolius nuts and prefer the metolius.
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microbarn
Feb 6, 2006, 7:32 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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from my experience
no hexes
about 5 lockers total
1 or 2 double length slings
get ABC Huevos instead of BD nuts. Huge price difference, but no difference otherwise. (Ok, different colors, but still the same otherwise.)
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tradrenn
Feb 12, 2006, 12:59 AM
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Tricams
I would recommend you get yourself first 5 sizes and double up on pink and red ( two smallest sizes )
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sungam
Feb 12, 2006, 2:01 AM
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In reply to: I would get some aliens.
-Magnus
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papounet
Feb 14, 2006, 11:45 PM
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I have full sets of both DMM and BD stoppers.
I would recommend you go with the DMM, lighter and better shaped IMHO.
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stymingersfink
Feb 15, 2006, 10:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I would get some aliens. I wouldn't... -Magnus
I would. Got some you'd like to part with, Magnus?
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turfguy
Feb 15, 2006, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
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looks good...basically what i have...plus a few aliens and hexes...
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sidepull
Feb 15, 2006, 11:55 PM
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In reply to: any suggestions, what to buy, what not to buy, Exc.
to compliment your rack, you definitely a subscription to Urban Climber - core man, core.
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