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crackboy
Mar 8, 2006, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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Question for you all.
i was wondering if you can get by with a 50m hauline on any of the cloumn routes. my gym rope is a 9.6 50m and i figure that would be a nice width and could funtion as a back up lead line, but its length has me doubting it.
thanks
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hollyclimber
Mar 8, 2006, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
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I think its a bad idea. I can't say that I have ever tried to climb a column route with a 50 m rope, but if you did it, you would for sure say that you are never going to do it again. I think I climbed Zodiac one time with a short haul rope and it was a pain in the ass.
hgb
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halfacre
Mar 8, 2006, 11:50 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2004
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You will want a 60 meter line on the Prow. Pitches 2 & 3 link with a 60 as do pitches 7 & 8. On pitch 10 you want a 60 so you can reach the plush ledge. Otherwise you have to build your own anchor in a chimney.
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crackboy
Mar 9, 2006, 8:10 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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yea i was just curious since i didn't know pitch lengths. thanks
turns out a friend of mine is sending me his 10.2 60m static, so i will have a haul line. so it is less of a big deal
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apollodorus
Mar 10, 2006, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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Use the static line for hauling. You'll spend less energy stretching the rope, and more energy scraping the bag up the wall. You shouldn't use a lead rope for hauling, and then expect to still be a lead rope. A dynamic rope gets permanently stretched during falls and when cranking a haul bag past obstructions. Hauling usually also abrades the rope. If you need a back-up lead line, carry it coiled up or in a bag. Using the rope to fix a pitch above the bivy is also really nice.
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