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ninjaclimb
Mar 28, 2006, 2:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2006
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I noticed the note regarding the pinnacle climbs being off limits due to the unstable nature of the pinnacle. However, I've been to Rattlesnake the last 3 weekends, and have seen parties climbing it each time. In fact, I also climbed it before noticing the warning on the website. I can't imagine what will happen once the warmer weather really hits and the hordes of people descend on the cliff looking for good routes. And the front side of that pinnacle is the best route at Rattlesnake in my opinion.
Something should be done to prevent people from climbing the pinnacle if it only requires a push to knock over.
Justin
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granite_grrl
Mar 28, 2006, 3:21 PM
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Sorry to be cynical, but I feel that I'm taking my my life into jepordy every time I'm at Rattlesnake or Buffalo (often Nemo and Kelso too) from falling rock. Perhaps someone should take the effort to prevent snot nosed kids from throwing rocks off the top of the cliff onto people below, too....but it hasn't happened yet.
I have never climbed that pinnicle, but have heard from others that its pretty sketchy. You could put signs up, but people would still climb it. Perhaps the best thing you could do is talk to people the next time you see them on it, explain that its unstable and why they shouldn't climb it. Climbers on the escarpment have to self-police, there just aren't enough ressources in the parks to do this for us.
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can_climber
Mar 28, 2006, 3:43 PM
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Even the guide book to the area warns about the pinnacle "Beware! The top section is quite decayed.".
I looked at Conservation Halton's website, but I could not find a posted warning about the pinnacle being off limits. Could you post a link Justin.
Granite Grrl is right about self policing among climbers. I see many climbers every year anchoring off cedars. Whenever I mentioned the banning of such practices, most people seem to know that what they are doing is wrong, but they lacked the gear to setup an alternative climb. They don't realize that they are making all climbers look bad by doing such things.
As for the rocks coming off the top....I have never experienced that. However, I think it wise to NEVER take your helmet off once you reach the base of the cliff at any of the milton crags. The potential to be pummeled with rocks is very high. Although all those snot nose kids seemed to have depleted the volume of loose rock at the top :)
Justin if you are looking for good routes other than the pinnacle....I am sure you would like "Cobwebs", "Final Finale Direct", "Crepidation (the first pitch)", and "crack three". Although maybe you have already done them.
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ninjaclimb
Mar 28, 2006, 4:06 PM
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There are signs posted at the top of the cliff telling the less intelligent amoung our species to not throw stuff off of the cliff. Regardless, I always wear a helmet at any crag that I go to.
As for the pinnacle, I didn't notice the top to be loose at all. At least the front side. However, I will do my best to inform climbers about the danger of climbing the pinnacle.
As for anchoring off of cedars, that is just irresponsible. That should be a criminal offense. There are enough other varieties of trees in the area to anchor off of. I've never had a problem building an anchor at Rattlesnake, or any of the Milton cliffs.
On the same note of the trees, at the base of Steve's Arete (??) there is a massive cedar that fell down sometime between last weekend and the weekend before (March 18 - March 26). I couldn't really deduce a reason why, so we should probably be more careful in our tree choices.
Justin
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kevinwaldock
Mar 28, 2006, 5:48 PM
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in 4-5 seasons of climbing around milton i've only seen one person solo up that pinnacle, although i try my best not to go to rattlesnake that much i've never seen anyone on it during the busy months, so maybe people do get the picture, or they get on it when there are less people around which i think is a good idea. and as far as it's stability i think you'd have to drive a truck into it before it toppled, i think it's a bit more solid then it looks, but i wouldn't climb it.
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