|
ebonezercabbage
Mar 31, 2006, 7:33 PM
Post #1 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 151
|
I'm not sure this is the correct place to post this but anyways...
I'm planning a trip up Long's Peak this summer in CO and i have a couple questions.
1. In the homestretch is marked as class 3 climbing/scrambling but from the photos it looks more like a serious climb to me, though it seems easy, it doesn't look like scrambling. Anyone been there? is it just harder than it looks in the photos or is it incorrectly labeled?
2. The whole rout is labeled class 3 and is said to be mostly scrambling when it comes to the last mile or so, so what climbing gear would you bring? the pictures look harder than scrambing in a lot of areas. If you were there before, what gear did you bring and what gear did you wish you had brought but didn't.
Also any other information or tips you might have are def welcome. I'll take whatever you have to say.
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
krusher4
Mar 31, 2006, 7:39 PM
Post #2 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997
|
Last season I saw a frat boy wearing puma's and a gap hoodie...so..yeah. Rock fall is a threat so wear a helmet. Frat boy was carelessly knocking small boulders down the trough left and right.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Mar 31, 2006, 7:53 PM
Post #3 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
No gear required other than that which you'd bring on any other long hike/summit in the mountains. There are basically no technical difficulties on the keyhole route in the summer.
|
|
|
|
|
rkepley_1
Mar 31, 2006, 8:51 PM
Post #4 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2006
Posts: 29
|
It really varies from year to year depending on how much snow the area receives. If I remember correctly, last year the keyhole route was considered a "technical climb" throughout most of the summer because of lingering snow. Probably the most serious area of that route with some snow would be the "narrows". It's a very narrow section about 2 feet wide at the most with lots of exposure. Some people actually rope up for this portion even in great conditions. As for the "homestretch", it is actually quite tame. Just some 3rd class scrambling.
Check out the nps website for current conditions.
Good luck!
Rob
|
|
|
|
|
drrock
Mar 31, 2006, 9:20 PM
Post #5 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2003
Posts: 610
|
^^^ What he said. It really depends on how much snow and ice is on the mountain still. Me and a buddy hiked the keyhole route to the top with no technical gear (no crampons or ice axe) in early June a few years ago and it was do-able but sketchy. The 45 degree snowfield (the trough) after the keyhole, the narrows, and the final scramble were all pretty sketchy. The final scramble was not hard (class 3 is about right), but was coated in ice with a potential for a *very* serious fall, it was not the brightest decision. The ranger told us not to attempt the route as we were starting at 7am, and we had no gear. That having been said, on our way up we were sort of dismayed to see a runner in shorts, sweatshirt, and tennis shoes literally jogging down. It took us about 12 hours car to car from the ranger station hiking pretty quick with about 10-15 minutes on top. I forget, but it might be about 16 miles RT or so. We hit the top about 2pm. It's recommended to hit the top about 10am or so to avoid the midafternoon lightning and storms. If you do it when there is no snow or ice, you probably don't really need any gear. Depends on your level of comfort. Have fun and be safe.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Mar 31, 2006, 9:36 PM
Post #6 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
These guys are right...it can be more serious if there is any snow or ice on the upper sections and you can check the ranger station for conditions. But don't let them scare you off either. I have done that hike many times in the summer and have seen 80 year old grandmothers and 10 year old kids do it too. If full summer conditions are in, it is nothing more than a long day hike. Do listen to drrock as far as times go, there are regular afternoon thunderstorms on the mountain in the summer and you want to be well clear of them.
|
|
|
|
|
ebonezercabbage
Apr 1, 2006, 6:45 PM
Post #7 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 151
|
Thanks for the information guys. I am planning an end of june beginning of july trip or an end of july trip. So i'm hopin to not see much snow, but i'm from pa and i don't really know what to expect as far as snow at that time of year. Also, i was plannin on camping up before the keyhole as i had read about a camping area up there, is that unwise with these afternoon storms? How severe are they generally, (am am a storm buff and love experiencing them, but i don't want to get electricuted. lol)? Do you think it wise to rope up for the narrows? i saw them and they looked sketchy indeed. Glad to hear that the homestretch is not as bad as it looks though. haha, had me nervous.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
feanor007
Apr 1, 2006, 7:09 PM
Post #9 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 377
|
did in july, no snow, no gear at all, and the homestretch is easy scrambling, we did it on a saturday in peak season (mistake) and it felt like riding an amusment park ride. 100 people on the mountain that day
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Apr 4, 2006, 12:57 PM
Post #10 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
In my opinion it is much easier to do it in a day rather than carry sleeping gear all the way up to the boulder field (before the keyhole). Just carry light and leave early. If the snow has melted out from winter/spring by the time you go, you will not need a rope or any other gear.
|
|
|
|
|
kydd76
Apr 4, 2006, 1:21 PM
Post #11 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 228
|
The boulder field is more of a bivy than a camp. I would think about a tarp are bivy sac, tent would just way you down. As for as summer storms they can vary, from nice cold summer sprinkle to hell. Just keep low and sheltered in the boulders with a ground pad under you, remember keep you *ss close just in cases. Just kidding! I would pack as if I where going to be in the rain and cold. I personally like to leave the afternoon before my bid and bivy at the boulder field, some of the best star watching in the world. It also helps to beat the crowds. The crowds will be there around the end of June thru September. It is not as bad as it looks; with out snow it is a walk up. I have been past the key hole when the gully was full of snow. I would rope up if you are feeling that there mite be fall potential that is my own opinion. You will have to decide for your self. Be safe have a blast.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 4, 2006, 2:30 PM
Post #12 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
In reply to: 1. In the homestretch is marked as class 3 climbing/scrambling but from the photos it looks more like a serious climb to me, though it seems easy, it doesn't look like scrambling. Anyone been there? is it just harder than it looks in the photos or is it incorrectly labeled?.
If class 4 is defined as "using your hands to make upward progress" then keyhole to summit is class 4. at least that's what i think after having done that route last september. some exposure on the ledges and on the home stretch ( it's like a big sliding board )
In reply to: 2. The whole rout is labeled class 3 and is said to be mostly scrambling when it comes to the last mile or so, so what climbing gear would you bring? the pictures look harder than scrambing in a lot of areas. If you were there before, what gear did you bring and what gear did you wish you had brought but didn't. .
no climbing gear needed if dry and free of snow. it was that way in sept. 05. we came across a guy that broke his tib/fib at the ankle after a fall while decending the Trough. we helped out a bit and gave some meds for pain so i would say a first aid kit w/blister kit/ibuprofen, 2-4 quarts of water for yourself, food, rain gear, comfortable sticky rubber shoes, sunscreen, hat, headlamp. i would carry a super light stove w/pot & spoons, light weight tarp to cover two people, a few ramen noodle soups and a couple power bars (this food for emergency) start way early. we left the ranger station a 6am and i was pissed cause i couldn't get my ass outta bed. we wanted to start at 4am so we could be decending no later then 1pm. the earlier your commin down the safer you'll be. most storms are afternoon affairs. have fun.
Also any other information or tips you might have are def welcome. I'll take whatever you have to say.
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Apr 4, 2006, 2:42 PM
Post #13 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
as far as i know, tents are not allowed in the RMNP backcountry, and you can only get a bivy permit for use on roped technical climbs. i would definitly give a call to the backcountry office to check that out, but thats the rules as i understand them.
for a bivy sack, i would check out the Black Diamond Winter Bivy. it has served me well out there, its cheap and super light. if conditions appear ready to exceed the protection offered by this sack i would bail and try again after weather improves.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Apr 4, 2006, 2:53 PM
Post #14 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
Common people you've got to be kidding...a stove, a bivy, ropes...for a 16 mile round trip hike up Longs in summer conditions! Unless you want to bivy for the novelty of staying in the boulder field (it is pretty cool) leave all that crap at home. Food for the day, a couple liters of water, rain gear, headlamp, sunscreen, comfortable shoes, and if you feel like it a emergency blanket and first aid kit. I may have forgotten a few items but this is not an expedition. The boulderfield is a designated camp site (not a bivy site) meaning tents are allowed with a permit. Check out more info here:
http://www.nps.gov/romo/index.html
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 4, 2006, 4:37 PM
Post #15 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
In reply to: Common people you've got to be kidding...a stove, a bivy, ropes...for a 16 mile round trip hike up Longs in summer conditions! Unless you want to bivy for the novelty of staying in the boulder field (it is pretty cool) leave all that crap at home. Food for the day, a couple liters of water, rain gear, headlamp, sunscreen, comfortable shoes, and if you feel like it a emergency blanket and first aid kit. I may have forgotten a few items but this is not an expedition. The boulderfield is a designated camp site (not a bivy site) meaning tents are allowed with a permit. Check out more info here: http://www.nps.gov/romo/index.html
for those who don't think taking the mountains seriuosly - this quote:
"2. Close call with hypothermia at 12000' in a freak August snowstorm"
from : http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/110198
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Apr 4, 2006, 5:01 PM
Post #16 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
In reply to: for those who don't think taking the mountains seriuosly - this quote: "2. Close call with hypothermia at 12000' in a freak August snowstorm" from : http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/110198
No offense reg, of course a freak storm can happen and I would recommend carrying some extra clothes and rain gear just for that. But getting up and down quickly will do more to keep you out of a storm in the first place. I have been up Longs at least a dozen times (in all seasons) and have done the keyhole route probably half a dozen times. In all those times (except maybe winter) a quick retreat was the best bet in bad weather...not sitting around firing up the stove, or sitting in a tent in the boulderfield waiting for lightning or moving slowly down the mountain because you packed 20 lbs of bivy gear/tent.
|
|
|
|
|
ebonezercabbage
Apr 4, 2006, 5:12 PM
Post #17 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 151
|
well, thankyou for all the information. I will be campin in the boulder field on the 25th and 26th of july. Besides hoping for some great star gazing, i'm also staying up there cause i want a little more time to get used to the elevation. I'm from PA and well, we are basically at sea level. I've had some good experience in the dacks this winter but that was only a mile high, close to 3 miles is quite a difference. Camping will be advantageous for me more than it could hurt. And i've winter camped on a longer trail with steeper approaches so i'm not worried. Summer campin is soooo much lighter. Thanks guys.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Apr 4, 2006, 5:16 PM
Post #18 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
If you have an afternoon after you get to the boulderfield, hike up a little farther to "chasm view". It's not far from the boulderfield camp sites and it is a view of the diamond that is not to be missed. Best view in all of RMNP in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 4, 2006, 5:26 PM
Post #19 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
In reply to: If you have an afternoon after you get to the boulderfield, hike up a little farther to "chasm view". It's not far from the boulderfield camp sites and it is a view of the diamond that is not to be missed. Best view in all of RMNP in my opinion.
wish i'd done that.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 4, 2006, 5:44 PM
Post #20 of 20
(2022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
In reply to: In reply to: for those who don't think taking the mountains seriuosly - this quote: "2. Close call with hypothermia at 12000' in a freak August snowstorm" from : http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/110198No offense reg, of course a freak storm can happen and I would recommend carrying some extra clothes and rain gear just for that. But getting up and down quickly will do more to keep you out of a storm in the first place. I have been up Longs at least a dozen times (in all seasons) and have done the keyhole route probably half a dozen times. In all those times (except maybe winter) a quick retreat was the best bet in bad weather...not sitting around firing up the stove, or sitting in a tent in the boulderfield waiting for lightning or moving slowly down the mountain because you packed 20 lbs of bivy gear/tent.
yeah i agree - i did not suggest a tent though - but havin a stove could make a miserable wait more comfortable - light weight, 30sec. setup up - couple minutes to boil. can't hurt.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
