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beckerw
Apr 3, 2006, 5:43 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Nov 23, 2002
Posts: 171
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to all....j_ung clearly spells out the mysteries of the stick clip to those uninitiated. kudos for the glory photos.
curious though...i use the same set up more or less. does the neutrino in the jaw make it easier to clip and unclip the draw?
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oldsalt
Apr 3, 2006, 6:07 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
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In reply to: Lead Climber Location: University of Georgia
(Semi-hijack - Feel free to ignore)
Note: I am not blaming wzrdgandalf for the following, but "University of Georgia" caught my eye after experiencing the following:
Partner Jimmy and I were climbing the Two-Man Party routes at Mt. Yonah on Saturday. We found a burst white plastic garbage bag laying at the base of the crag. There were numerous empty beer cans and a partial bag of raw hot dogs, among other, similar items. We picked up the mess and loaded it into my nylon mesh gear bag.
The party on the next route said that there had been a Sigma Nu party at the summit the night before. I suppose that they didn't want to carry garbage back to beautiful Athens, GA....
I learned that old beer and party garbage make your gear bag smell like the Sigma Nu house. If I had enough time, I would have delivered the lot to the Snake House on my way back home. Instead, I just threw gear bag and all into the garbage bin that sits alongside the road 100 yards from the party site.
To whomever did this: You give rednecks a bad name.
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pdx_climber
Apr 3, 2006, 6:36 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Sep 27, 2005
Posts: 110
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Pick up a handful of these: http://www.pagangear.com/...n=VIEWPROD&ProdID=65
Yeah, they're cheap crappy 'biners from a no-name company. No, I wouldn't fill out a full rack with them or trust a big-wall hauling system to them. But for $6 I sure as hell would leave one on a bolt if I had to bail, and it's a hell of a lot safer than using a piece of webbing or a non-locking carabiner.
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wzrdgandalf
Apr 3, 2006, 9:16 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
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Great pictures j_ung. that is a very helpful way to show how to get the draws off.
As for the sigma nu guys, a bunch of jack asses if you ask me. I hate it when people like them make my school look bad.
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rocketsocks
Apr 3, 2006, 11:36 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Feb 11, 2006
Posts: 179
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In reply to: In reply to: Why can't you just rig the backup with another sling with the rope tied to it using a double bowline? No gear left behind, same level of redundancy. Would you trust that sling to hold your fall after the main sling failed?
Would you trust the other sling to hold your fall in the first place? Why not use the quick-link as the primary if you don't trust the slings?
Anyway, seems like taking a rest and downclimbing and cleaning is probably the best and safest way (with the most redundancy of safety systems) to get off a route.
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jcasper
Apr 4, 2006, 12:30 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 108
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In reply to: Alternatively there is a neat trick (slight twist on Poodle-power picture) where, if the lower off is no more than a third of a rope's length up the route you can simultaneously rap off the top bolt and down-lead the route (on belay) in case the top bolt (more likely to be a old fixed piece or trad piece) blows on the way down. I think it is also on climbing.com.
The lower off need only be half a rope, not a third of a rope (if this what you're referring to) and since most single pitch sport routes are shorter than half the rope you can almost always do this (if you have a rap line):
http://climbing.com/...echtips/tttrad241-2/
I've also done something similar using a single rope and another belayer: the person cleaning ties into both ends of the rope, top ropes up to the high point, and puts the rope that isn't going through the draws through the leaver. So the rope goes in a giant loop from harness, through draws, through two belayers (each an opposite direction), up through the leaver and back to the harness. One belayer lowers and one belayer keeps them on lead belay as the climber cleans.
I usually use this when I bail on sport routes as trusting my butt to a single bolt doesn't make me happy, and its a nice alternative to leaving two biners. Both of the above work pretty well, although they do have the disadvantage of having to go down and back up (unless you drag a rap line on the way up initially, but who does that on a sport route?). I tend to want to rest and have another go at the section I couldn't get anyway (although you do have the weight of two ropes on the retry unless you tie it off at the bolt or something).
Jared
edited 1 time because the img tag didn't seem to like parenthesis
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tonloc
Apr 4, 2006, 1:02 AM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
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i have left a draw, i miss her greatly
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