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using your knee
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krusher4


Apr 7, 2006, 7:00 PM
Post #26 of 28 (2357 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

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LOL, I love how this is in Aid Climbing LOL


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Apr 7, 2006, 8:34 PM
Post #27 of 28 (2357 views)
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Registered: Jun 17, 2005
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I sometimes use my knees.....but then again sometimes I look as graceful as a drowning victim. Ya gotta do what you gotta do!


dudemanbu


Apr 8, 2006, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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Brutus, i used a totally different type of head jam than you've mentioned, one that you should definitely be aware of.

In a fissure beneath a roof, with both feet smeared against each side of the chimney below me, I used my posterior neck muscles (splenius capitus) to keep me in place with the back of my head against the fissure, and my forehead against the front. This gave me a high body tension, arms free rest while i searched for holds on the roof i was attempting to pull.

Earlier that day i used the "head torque" jam that you've mentioned, in a similar but differently oriented crack system. It was quite useful. I managed to levitate up the crack by simply wiggling my massive man melon back and forth up the crack.




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I used a head jam last weekend.

is that bad form?

No, but you can improve on it.

There are several techniques available, each of which have their applications.

The "Passive head jam (aka face plant)" uses the tapering of lower face like a passive tapered nut in cracks of similar configuration.

The neck jam is far more secure and is used for slotted, keyhole placements, but its use is restricted to momentary shaking out of other trashed appendages, as prolonged use quickly results in unconsciousness.

The Head Torque (clockwise or counterclock from the climber's perspective) is used in slightly offsize head cracks, resembles the head movement of a puzzled dog, (Think "His Master's Voice" in the old RCA Victor logo) and is done with the jaw firmly clamped shut. The Head Torque reportedly was developed in Canada, and the padding used for it was -- you guessed it -- a Toque.

Then we get into the true head OW technique:

Back when Class 5 gym had a nice offwidth, the best technique I found for progress was a combination of peristalsis and Occipital-Mandible Bridge. The Occipital-Mandible Bridge is used for head jams slightly larger than the standard Head Torque, and is accomplished by pressuting between the top/back of your head and the lower jaw, by opening your mouth as hard as possible (think yawn with your chin in contact with the rock)

Padding for this move was originally an ace bandage wrapped around the head, but at one point I tried a diver's neoprene head-piece with better (although sweatier) results.

Hope this gets you headed in the right (or left) direction.

Brutus

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