|
blindslap
Aug 23, 2002, 5:02 AM
Post #1 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
|
anyone know a long, exposed and moderate climb in Little Cotton Wood Canyon. (5.6-5.9)
|
|
|
|
|
climbinganne
Aug 23, 2002, 5:14 AM
Post #2 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 11679
|
schoolroom is a really sweet climb and so is tingey's terror...try PMing bshaftoe or alpinerocket they know their canyon really well...and will give you awesome beta...good luck!!!
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerocket
Aug 24, 2002, 12:23 AM
Post #3 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2001
Posts: 496
|
Either one of these are good. Try Petapitch. Just tried Cresent Crack today. I hate the OW, it kicked our ass. I just need to improve this technique. Any more ? contact me. John
|
|
|
|
|
tylerphillips
Aug 26, 2002, 6:52 PM
Post #4 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2002
Posts: 132
|
The BEST exposed route in LCC that is 5.9 has got to be the S-Direct on the Thumb, you can take a number of good ways to Lunch Ledge that are within the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This route is a must for any self respectin 5.9 leader.
|
|
|
|
|
k9rocko
Aug 27, 2002, 1:19 AM
Post #5 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2002
Posts: 195
|
I am not a self-respecting 5.9 leader, b/c I choke on Straight on For You (5.8+)
But, I do admit I want the S-direct. Good tick Tyler.
|
|
|
|
|
larsadam
Aug 27, 2002, 1:36 AM
Post #6 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2002
Posts: 7
|
On the more moderate end of this spectrum, I think Beckey's Wall is a great classic. The second pitch affords some of the best easy exposure in LCC (in my opinion). The route is only about 3 pitches as I recall and requires an exciting and circuitous descent. Schoolroom is a great route, but I don't think the the exposure is all that thrilling. I never got to climb The Coffin or a route above Perhaps called someone's (Gordon's maybe) Hangover, both of these are 5.9 and looked to afford great exposure at a harder grade.
I'm sitting in a hotel room in flat Rochester, NY and wish I was in LCC desperately, but I'm planning on going to Poke-O in ADK Park next weekend so I think I'll be OK.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtbag
Aug 28, 2002, 11:52 PM
Post #7 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2002
Posts: 54
|
I would agree with Phillips on this one, S direct. But just to add my two cents, Japanese terraces just up canyon of Pentapitch.
|
|
|
|
|
rocknpowda
Sep 5, 2002, 5:12 PM
Post #8 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 418
|
I climbed Japanese Terraces with Dirtbag a while back and it is definitely sweet and doesn't see much traffic. Mr. Dirtbag is now teaching english in Korea and is probably hoping to find a nice Korean Terraces route! Good Luck you dirty DirtBag.
As T"boss"Phillips noted however, the S-Direct is much more exposed. The last pitch climbs a sea of perfectly dished granite. It is like 15 feet to the first bolt, 30 feet to the next one, 40 or 50 to the next, then to the top if I remember correctly. Don't let the runout scare you off though, as that pitch is one of the finest friction pitches in the canyon. At least now the bolts on it are bomber. When I did it, it featured the original 1/4 inch bolts, some of which were pulled by hand when they retro'd the route!
|
|
|
|
|
climbjs
Sep 5, 2002, 5:35 PM
Post #9 of 9
(2566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2002
Posts: 379
|
Do Pentapitch, and Perhaps. Satan's Corner has exposure, but feel very comfortable on 5.8+! Have fun!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
