|
acro
May 3, 2006, 8:16 PM
Post #1 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2005
Posts: 30
|
I am looking to build my rack slowly.
As of now i have a good set of 12 quickdraws, a rope, a set (6-10) of hexes and a set (6-10) of stoppers. And a few locking carabiners.
I like trad as well as sport leads.
What would be next good or logical investment?
I am not ready to buy any cams yet. (Cash issues!!!)
Any suggestions?
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
May 3, 2006, 8:45 PM
Post #2 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
24" slings
carabiners to go with your slings
nut tool
cordlette (even if the cordlette thing goes out of style, it cant hurt to have a bunch of 7mm perlon lying around)
helmet
spare carabiners (i usually carry around 4- they also act as leaver biners)
another idea is to carry some tied slings and some OP rap rings (they are super cheap- $2, i think and rated to 22kn...cheaper and better than a carabiner!) with you.
also think about a pack or carry bottle for water, snacks, etc.
knife of some sort is always good (combine this with your nut tool- i like the Trango Shark).
headlamp
lots of stuff, but that'll get you started.
|
|
|
|
|
chanceboarder
May 3, 2006, 8:53 PM
Post #3 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1348
|
Some tri cams would be nice. Almost as cheap as nuts but with a little more versatility in placements. I'd recommend the smallest 3 (.5, 1, and 1.5).
|
|
|
|
|
iclime
May 4, 2006, 2:25 AM
Post #4 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2005
Posts: 47
|
Another way to conceive of the next logical investment is in training. For example (and I know I'm assuming things here--feel free to correct me), if you're not way up on your self-rescue skills, you might consider a class in that, or maybe a WFR course.
Just another option.
I second all of vegastrad's suggestions.
M
|
|
|
|
|
duncan_s
May 4, 2006, 11:17 AM
Post #5 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2004
Posts: 90
|
All the above suggestions are good. Another set of nuts can be helpfull depending on the length of climbs you are doing and I really like the new WC big nuts in sizes up to 14. If you are doing single pitch climbs a couple of 240cm slings can be very helpfull as well, depending on where you climb, for rigging at the top.
|
|
|
|
|
buckyllama
May 4, 2006, 12:57 PM
Post #6 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 314
|
In order of usefulness/importance:
a helmet. If you are going to be climbing in trad areas, you need one. (if you are just experimenting at your local top-roping crag you may be able to push this furthur down the list)
24" slings. You can buy a bunch of 11/16" webbing and tie your own to start if cash flow is a problem. That's what I did when I was starting out.
48" slings. you only need 1 or 2, but they are the shiznit when slinging trees or chockstones.
More nuts, specifically smaller nuts. (don't bother with micros, but down to a bd#4 is really useful)
tricams. These are a bit area specific but are really your only passive option for most horizontal cracks. The smallest 4 are always on my rack.
a few more carabiners. Get 2 every time you buy anything else.
cams. Look for sales, get a few rock empire or the like. They are only about $30 a pop and will do you well for a while. Start with the fingers-small hands sizes. Even 3 cams will go a long way.
|
|
|
|
|
cruxy
May 4, 2006, 1:44 PM
Post #7 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 21, 2005
Posts: 62
|
You will definitely want to get a second set of nuts (5-9 for sure), a daisy chain is always a good idea. If you don't want to buy a whole set of cams I can understand the money issue, but start small buy one at a time and before you know it you will four or five solid peices that you will use all the time. Start with small cams one to two inch and smaller.
|
|
|
|
|
bkalaska
May 4, 2006, 1:55 PM
Post #8 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 16, 2005
Posts: 143
|
I'd recommend hexes 4 and 5. I only carry nuts to 10 as well, because I feel the smaller hexes are more versatile. Get tricams for sure (smallest three) That will also cover the larger range on the second set of nuts people are recommending. You'll place the pink tricam on every climb, and the res everyother climb. Helmet for sure. 3 24" slings to make trad draws, and consider some RP's or micronuts. They are strong, and can enhance placements as oppositional pieces. Even if you won the lottery tommorrow it is good that you are starting off with passive pro. Your cam placements will be better when you can afford them if you practice and get creative with passive pro. Take a leading or anchor building class to.
|
|
|
|
|
acro
May 4, 2006, 2:18 PM
Post #9 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2005
Posts: 30
|
Thanks to:
vegastradguy -- "tied slings?" how are these different from the 24" slings that you mentioned?
chanceboarder -- definitely considering some tri-cams.
iclime -- interesting suggestion, might look into that.
buckyllama -- speaking of cams, and this is a general question to all, are brand names really of importance? or are all the cams available out there as good as the other?
And thanks to all others who have posted their 2 cents. I certainly appreciate your help.
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
May 4, 2006, 2:35 PM
Post #10 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
some good advice up there. Vegastradguy and BKalaska are especially dialed. Things could be even more helpful if you indicated the location/rock type where you will be climbing and the typical length of route - it matters.
my .02
With cams, I usually recommend about thin hand sized (#1 camalot) then buy the one below, the one above, the one below, etc. All the brands are pretty good. Once you have a full set, start again with the same pattern for doubling.
Tricams are great - to about 1.5 (brown). Above tend to be unstable. I would suggest you spend time learning how to place them and how to remove them. The latter is the crux.
Hexes - I like the larger sizes to supplement same sized cams for long routes /alpine rock routes. I plug them in when it is easy and save the cams for more desperate plugging. I don't carry hexes on roadside crags. The Wildcountry Rockcentrics are actually a better design.
Daisy chains. Don't bother. They are best used for aid routes and multipitch rappel descents (I use a sling). Many rookies leave them on their harness all the time and have to futz around them while leading.
The tied slings are extra helpful for retreating - tieing them around trees, chockstones, to bolt stations, etc. You won't be cutting and tying your spectra slings, and not for a lack of trying (very cut resistant and do not knot well).
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
May 4, 2006, 2:50 PM
Post #11 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
In reply to: a daisy chain is always a good idea
I find otherwise. When in need of a static extension, I like standard length slings for simplicity and limiting of single purpose gear carried. If you don't like that option, then the Metolius PAS seems much better. Often a rope is sufficient.
My personal opinion is that the daisy chain is going the way of the figure 8. Something that everyone buys and eventually regrets.
|
|
|
|
|
hammerhead
May 4, 2006, 2:56 PM
Post #12 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 371
|
I too use tied slings, Supertape in particular. I use about 10" to tie the water knot. So I use just under 5' for each sling. Last time I bought some it was $.25 a foot. So you're looking at $1.25 each. You might want to consider a set of ABC Huevos, size 4 and up, for your second set of nuts. I don't own a set but I hear that they are good gear. You can get a set for around $50.00. Tricams are awesome, I have doubles in pink and red and the rest up to 3.5. Check Rockempire and Pagangear for some good deals on biners.
I just found this:
http://www.experiential-gear.com/...ype=product&id=19447
Al
|
|
|
|
|
chalkfree
May 4, 2006, 3:56 PM
Post #13 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 512
|
Personally, I'd just buy good cams the first time around and skip the rockempire crap and the cheap stuff. I know several folks that're kicking themselves cause they bought their first run of cams from kong and rockempire. It's not that they're bad or unsafe, it's just that there're much better cams out there.
If money is a huge object buy some forged friends, I think I'd rather have those on my rack than other cheap cams. Just be careful about loading the over horizontal edges.
Really I'd rather have a smaller rack of better gear than a big one of stuff that I'd want to replace in a year or two. C4's are probly the best place to start, I'd love to recommend maxcams, but they aren't like other cams.
Proceed with calling me an elitist.
|
|
|
|
|
duncan_s
May 5, 2006, 9:48 AM
Post #14 of 14
(1783 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2004
Posts: 90
|
I'd rather have more cheap cams then a few good ones. Second hand gear goes for silly money on e-bay so if you want posher ones in a couple of years time you can get a fair bit of your cash back.
My Rock Empire cams have lasted very well, but my HB and Clog ones have not done so well. Also my Rock Empire cams had the nice loop on the end long before C4's were out. Not all cheap cams are the same, have a play in a shop and see what you think of them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
