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euroford
Apr 23, 2006, 11:57 PM
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LOL, didn't go climbing today as planned. post banff flim festival activities found us drinking our way around town and watching night turn to morning from my front porch with beers still in hand.
the film festival was fukin awsome. i won a patagonia r2 vest in the raffle!!! i never win anything, especially not cool shit that i actually want.
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euroford
May 4, 2006, 12:10 PM
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well looks like i'll be out at the lake on saturday, solo again because my partner is an assclown, he'll be wasiting his weekend of all things, working. :shock:
first things first, i'm going to lead that thing posted up above. if you see me up there crying or sniveling or something, please don't laugh.
:lol: :lol:
come say hi to me. i get lonely and the savage topropers scare me.
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kymonkey
May 9, 2006, 1:11 PM
Post #54 of 75
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learn to lead!
Not trying to be rude but its the only way to get the full effect of climbing.
Peace, love, and chalk dust.
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curtis_g
May 9, 2006, 10:33 PM
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In reply to: learn to lead! Not trying to be rude but its the only way to get the full effect of climbing. Peace, love, and chalk dust.
are you drunk?
who are you talking to?
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onbelay007
May 11, 2006, 2:56 AM
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Going for the full weekend! I'm just as excited to camp and build a nice fire as I am about climbing. Euroford and I will probably be free climbing on the East bluff on Saturday and Sunday we're going to aid and work on some hauling techniques. Stop by and say hi. I'll have a new Black Diamond haul bag that I'll be trying to get dirty and beaten in so you should be able to spot me pretty easily.
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jackpinesavage
May 12, 2006, 1:16 AM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2004
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My first time out to DL in the 60's, I was fooling around right next to this piece. There were two brits out there climing but one had forgotten his shoes. The other said "i can climb that in my stockings" The bet was on.
He climbed it in his socks so the other had to do the same. then the time was right for " I can climb that with no pants etc. They just kept at it until all they were wearing was the rope. YOu could get away with that back then. Nice rock
.
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euroford
May 15, 2006, 10:08 PM
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time for an update, now that i have two trips to update on....
last weekend i pulled a solo trip, driving up friday night, camping over and climbing on saturday (5/5-5/6). weather was nice, cold at night though and Onbelay had my cold bag so i was stuck shivering in my 40deg. the next morning i got on my little project pictured above and basiclly got my ass handed to me. lol. the easy slab and chimney would have been a 1 min. job free with a proper belay, solo belay laden with an aid rack it was a ROYAL PITA!!! after finally gaining access to the headwall the "C3" rating promptly turned into an A4+ rating as i really figure anything that close to the ground would be. after two reachy hook moves, a funky #1 HB offset and another hook move all above a ledge, i realized it would basicly be that way to the top. my kind of terrain, but definitly not worth the risk for an afternoon of goofing around at the lake. i bailed off and solo aided congrats again just to salvage the afternoon, just as i got started a group showed up intending to film who i believe to be the rc.com user dancingmadlybackwards climbing and then taking a major whipper off the route. they were cool and didn't bitch about me finishing my lead, then i had good entertainment watching her take a damn fine whipper for the camera.
this weekend, as steve mentioned above we were out at the lake all weekend climbin in the rain. we had the place entirly to ourselves on sunday and shared the east bluffs with the single most incompetent guided group climb i've ever seen on saturday. i was actually freaked out pretty seriously by these poeple, even though a couple of them did actually sound like they knew that they were doing. well, whatever.
so we spend the weekend working on big wall tactics, climb up, build anchor, fix rope, haul pig, finish climb, build anchor, fix rope, haul pig, drink beer. that worked fine once with me leading upper d on sat. and once with steve leading upper d on sun.
also on saturday i tried another route, over to the right of upper d, the REALLY steep crack buitifull that kind of pitters out 12ish feet from the top, a thin hook/ballnut traverse take you up through some chossy blocks underneither the 'summit boulder'. anybody know the name?
well anyways, that one went like this: climb, build anchor, fix rope, haul pigs, climb, crackpitters out, tenous hooks/ballnuts to loose rock, shove big cams behind loose blocks, reach around end to big right traversing hook move, try to high step hook to mantle out the top of the route, hook blows, tim whippers onto cams behind loose blocks, rope gets two coreshots on sharp flake, try to climb back up, 100lbs of blocks shifter under bodyweight/big cams, bail off route, fix torope, jug up to retrieve gear.
lol. cool route, i might just be back for a rematch on this thing, but at this point i was ready for dinner and a beer.
all in all, an excellent weekend to be out braving the elements for big wall training purposes. we had a riot, steep routes kept most of the water off us, softshells and capalene mitigated the rest of it.
wtf, now that the old schoolhouse is closed, where are some guys supposed to get a pizza around there? we went to friggin pizza slut, seriously, that can't possably be the best option, or, uh, is it???
(i guess i was in a typing mood eh)
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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this saturday. who will I see there.
East bluff, probably, all day. I'll have me and my buddy trad climbing (he won't be leading anything) and then probably 3 others that are big n00bs I will throw a TR for while I lead.
Look for me, I will be wearing a red bandana around my head of long messy hair.
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onbelay007
May 15, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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I was belaying Euroford when he took his lead fall and don't believe him about taking a core shot to the rope. I saw it--merely a flesh wound.
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 11:45 PM
Post #62 of 75
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In reply to: In reply to: also on saturday i tried another route, over to the right of upper d, the REALLY steep crack buitifull that kind of pitters out 12ish feet from the top, a thin hook/ballnut traverse take you up through some chossy blocks underneither the 'summit boulder'. anybody know the name? sounds vaguely like Sometime Crack/Direct...that what you're talking about?
sounds like it to me. Sometime Crack is the steep crack rite of the diagonals on the piece of bluff that sticks out just like the rock to the left of the diagonals. Starts on like a 10-15 ft boulder? Steep crack, usually climbed with a 5 ft traverse through a horizontal crack once the vertical one 'pitters out'
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mowz
May 17, 2006, 2:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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euroford, I'll be there this Sat.
Hope to see you there and put a face to the name.
I'll be in a blue Patagonia shell with a red BD pack on. I'll also be with 3 others. The other guy is a bigger guy (not fat, just tall and muscular) with glasses.
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curtis_g
May 18, 2006, 12:27 AM
Post #65 of 75
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I'll be up all this saturday.
Say 'hey' to Curtis in a red bandana under all my hair.
I'll be leading with my buddy 'round upper D
and setting TRs for some other friends.
{edit}
Oh, and any daredevils should hook up with us for some
cliff jumping by mirror lake afterwards or mabe sunday
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euroford
May 21, 2006, 3:18 PM
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was up saturday for the day with rich (Justsendingits) actually 'gasp' freeclimbing. had an absolutle blast, but despite being in damn good shape now i -really- need to get back into the freeclimbing groove. i flailed all over everything, it was basicly embarasing and i logged a good bit of air time, but had an absolutly excellent time. climbed berkely, petes proj, michaels proj and brintons.
holy shit was is it a madhouse or what? i don't recall the place being that crowded in a really really long time. so many kids/boy scouts too. but ran into plenty of cool climbers as well.
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corpse
May 21, 2006, 5:12 PM
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In reply to: holy s--- was is it a madhouse or what? i don't recall the place being that crowded in a really really long time. so many kids/boy scouts too.
I'm actually glad I didn't head up this weekend.. But alas, I'm still allowing my shoulders to recover from pullin down hard in indian creek and the moab crags :)
I look forward to many weekDAYS at the lake, when hopefully there will be less crowds - I'll save the weekends for working :) hmm, I mean, I can prolly put a good 30 hrs in on a weekend.. 2 days on, 5 days off, would be ideal...
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mowz
May 21, 2006, 10:34 PM
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Cou;dn't make it to the Lake. Sorry. I looked on weather.com and saw that there was 50% chance of t-storms and with my luck, it would have turned to 70%.
I guess Lady Luck hates my ass. If I went, it would have poured. I don't go and it's blue skies nirvana.
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euroford
May 22, 2006, 2:01 AM
Post #69 of 75
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i've learned not to look at the weather report, just always bring a rain jacket!
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euroford
May 24, 2006, 9:07 PM
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Tom, man your lucky you can exploit those weekdays. sure wish i could!
steve and i will be up all weekend, along with his sister. we plan to camp fri, sat and sun nights, but not climb on monday. if you see us at the crags say hi, and we'll probobly be camping in either ice age or wheelers. if you see a blue chevy cavalier (steves car) w/ trango and dmm stickers in the back window say howdy. always willing to share a beer in exchange for yuking it up with fellow climbers.
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euroford
May 29, 2006, 7:01 PM
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well, camping at any decent place turned out to be a completely laughable concept. my first trip up during a holiday weekend, what a fukin madhouse. we ended up staying at a horrible ghetto campground north of baraboo on 12. full of totally plowed polish fuktards that were yelling and playing techno 24hours a day. we didn't hardly sleep a wink and skipped camping out sunday night and went home.
the climbing on the other hand was pretty good. we were also joined by steves sisters friend Ben. lemme try to remeber what we did....
saturday:
steve leads berkley, i follow and clean, casey and ben tr.
i lead celebration, casey topropes, i toprope again to take down rope
ben and i attempt orgasm on toprope, steve succedes
casey and ben toprope foreplay
i lead petes project, everybody else topropes - being a crummy freeclimber i was pretty happy to have finally lead that one.
i aid callipigeanous crack, steve jumars to clean
i aided up the initial c1 crack, then continued straight up into what i would call c3 territory on the blank face. about 30 feet of good and bad hooking with a #3 offset and a #1 ballnut, both marginal to the next ledge where i finally got some good cams before grunting up a sqeeze chimney to the top. the bottom crack was a quick pleasure, the upper blank face was serious aid trickery, the squeeze chimney was absolutly miserable with all of the aid gear on. a thunderstorm rolled through for 20 minutes and drenched me while standing on hooks at the crux. overall, it was a dicey 4 hour lead, but i recomend it for anybody who actually wants to do some hard aid at the lake. impossable without the #1 ballnut though!
sunday:
steve leads the 5.7 crack to the right of lost face, i follow and clean, casey topropes the path of least resitance out to the right, ben follows.
we wanted to climb at weisners afterword, but the VE guys had hung topropes all over weisners and parts of the cleo amp. we ate lunch, then i lead the spire, casey came up then i lowered her down, the guys sat on top and had a beer.
we were cooked out by the sun and heat, called it a weekend and pigged out a Pedro's back in madison before jetting back to chitown.
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corpse
May 30, 2006, 3:09 AM
Post #72 of 75
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4 hrs for an aid climb?? ack - yeah, this is why I won't aid climb - I dont' have the patience.. Nor will I ever belay someone that long on a single pitch of a climb..
Although I wish I coulda made it up this weekend, I ended up going for just today.. It was a casual day out, mostly to enjoy the weather - plus I had brought 5 kids with (12 and under - yikes!).. I thought something was wrong this morning, as of 9:30 am there was NOBODY around. CCC lot had 3 cars in it, and south shore by the boats had 1 car (minus trailers) - for such a gorgeous day it was so dead.. Although, the afternoon when we left, the place was hopping with grillers at the lake. Including one family who thought it was ok that the adults and kids cruise around on a mini sport bike...
Oh yeah, I even climbed about 30 or 40 feet today - that route was definitely an onsight (and no, I have no idea what route)
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mowz
May 30, 2006, 4:13 AM
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What's today? 29th? Yeah. I got up there about 3 hours behind schedule and saw the lot rather empty. I saw about 5 other parties up at the crag. Where the "F" was everyone? Did everyone go home early cuz of the temps.?
BTW, what ever happened to common courtesy?
I cleaned The Rack for by partner (C), dropped the rope and cleaned his anchor. Then, I remembered that there was a party who had set up a TR next to The Rack so I shout down and ask the party if I can just rap off the TR so I wouldn't have to hike down the trail. He turns to C and says that they are going to jump on the route. The shit then starts to remove his sandals and slowly puts on his shoes. I then thought to myself, "Is he serious? Did he just tell C that they are going to jump on the route and that's why I can't rap off the TR?"
When I finally get back to my bag (from hiking that stupid trail in aggressive shoes), I see that the two yahoos are indeed on the route, but the climber is 5 feet of the ground. It would have taken me 10 seconds, literally, to rap off the TR.
WTF?! I have never encountered people not letting anyone else rap off a TR before. It didn't matter who the rappeller was or who the rope gun was. I think it's just common courtesy. Were these yahoos noobs? Were they just plain old inconsiderate? Am I blowing this out of proportion? It really stupefied me for the duration of the hike.
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tnwagener
Jun 13, 2006, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
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I work in the Dells all summer and only get Fridays off and am getting to know a lot of the regular climbers at the lake. Let me know if there is interested in joining me. Not a top tier climber but i belay anyone and love the sport.
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