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the most influential move(technique)
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betameister


Jun 9, 2006, 1:47 AM
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the most influential move(technique)
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Just curious...

For all you climbers out there which technique made the most impact on your climbing? Either when you learned the move or when you finally figured out how/when to use it as a beginner. And then as a "more" experienced climber...this is obviously very subjective but I was just curious.

For me it was the twist lock when I first started, and now I'd say it's the heel hook


rockguide


Jun 9, 2006, 1:54 AM
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Downpressure with the hands. Gives balance without weight shifting, saves arm strength, and is key for corners and loose rock.

Not as useful on overhanging rock, but helpful everywhere else.


egonogo


Jun 9, 2006, 1:55 AM
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Heel hooking was pretty big, but the big one was when I learned to flutter my foot to semi smear. for big 4ft reaches


colotopian


Jun 9, 2006, 2:08 AM
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say... the pencil sharpener. But a close second is the sprinkler. The head spin is up there too. 8^)


betameister


Jun 9, 2006, 2:12 AM
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say... the pencil sharpener. But a close second is the sprinkler. The head spin is up there too. 8^)

Hmmm...these sound like dance moves....


colotopian


Jun 9, 2006, 2:20 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm going to go out on a limb and say... the pencil sharpener. But a close second is the sprinkler. The head spin is up there too. 8^)

Hmmm...these sound like dance moves....

..gotta dance... they're good moves!


redlegrangerone


Jun 9, 2006, 2:21 AM
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For me it was mantling and stemming.


fobnicat


Jun 9, 2006, 2:22 AM
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Edging.... Im deffinetly not a "more" experienced climber... but as soon as I learned to edge and my limits with edging.. my climbing became much smoother and much more stable.... Let those crystals stab your rubber... Hells yeh Boat Rock..


weasel


Jun 9, 2006, 2:22 AM
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Heel hook is definitley one of my favorite moves, along with high-end smearing.


gunkiemike


Jun 9, 2006, 2:51 AM
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The "Euro Chalk Blow"... definitely.

Seriously, there was a time before laybacking was known. I think rgold actually invented the move, about 60 years ago...


grampacharlie


Jun 9, 2006, 2:58 AM
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I"m pretty good with a bowstaff...


rhythm164


Jun 9, 2006, 2:59 AM
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I'd have to say the most helpful things for me would have to be the thumblock, heelhook, and above everything, breathing.


jaybro


Jun 9, 2006, 3:08 AM
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WTF is a twist lock(move)?


betameister


Jun 9, 2006, 3:32 AM
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WTF is a twist lock(move)?

It's when you have one hand(left) on a hold about chest height, opposite leg on a foot hold in line with your hand and face(twist) your bodyto your left making a 90 degree bend with your left arm. Make sure you flag with your free(left) foot to balance.

This allows for more reach of your right arm, easier to balance cause it puts your body to the wall and conserves energy.

Once you learn this basic form of the twist lock, you soon modify it and use it for everything!

If you ever see anyone doing an overhang or roof they are using a twist motion to stabalized themselves together with using their feet.

You may be doing it and not know. :D


betameister


Jun 9, 2006, 3:36 AM
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I"m pretty good with a bowstaff...

what's that?


Partner angry


Jun 9, 2006, 4:03 AM
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What the hell? Why hasn't anyone mentioned the motherfucking Handstack?

I need to go shave my balls.


ryanb


Jun 9, 2006, 4:27 AM
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Opening a beer with a carabiner, bumbing rides to crags and climbing more than you drink when you get dumped.


musicman1586


Jun 9, 2006, 4:30 AM
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Hand-Foot match, what can I say I have short arms :lol: Just learning to use and contort my body in odd ways so that I can get my feet high enough to reach the next hold has been what's changed my climbing the most.


ropeskippinali


Jun 9, 2006, 5:04 AM
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The Double Fist Butt Stack Chest Smear. To be used in wide cracks,chimneys or between large stalactites...Often a push the panic button manuever when the proverbial poo poo is about to hit the fan...Can be very restful however..as long as you don't laugh yourself off when you realize that you're creating a monster wedgie for yourself while your legs are seemingly trying to drive the Flinstones sedan...VERY technical move...I recommend practicing with a blind belayer in the middle of nowhere...


betameister


Jun 9, 2006, 5:08 AM
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now that i think about it.., I should have said the smear.

In all forms, cheek, face, thigh, back, chin and whatever you do to stay on!


c22


Jun 9, 2006, 5:16 AM
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deadpoint


cosmic_crawler


Jun 9, 2006, 5:19 AM
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Hands down the tippy foot comes in handy more and more


tonloc


Jun 9, 2006, 8:16 AM
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Double Fist Butt Stack Chest Smear...i agree, definitely revolutionary when the poopoo is approaching the blades...


acacongua


Jun 9, 2006, 12:19 PM
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flagging - it can turn a small hold into a big one and you get more length for a long move

learning to position yourself so that you oppose your body. i can clip easier off than than with using a jug.


keinangst


Jun 9, 2006, 12:27 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I"m pretty good with a bowstaff...

what's that?

He means Bo Staff. Think Donatello from the Ninja Turtles ;)


Drop knee. Before that, I couldn't figure out how people ever climbed steep stuff without just using pure arm power.

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