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el_capitan
Jun 13, 2006, 9:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2002
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Are there any alpine climbers on this site? I have 7 years of rock experience, 2 season of vertical ice but very little snow experience (1 route on meeker - the loft done in late fall). I will probably get some formal instruction here soon through a private guide on the usual, snow travel, self arrest, etc.
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mother_sheep
Jun 13, 2006, 9:55 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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Are you talking about alpine rock or couloirs and such? So much is melting out sooooo fast. PM me if you want to get out. I've got routes lined up until I get back from Rainier on 7/20. I have plenty of experience and pretty much do alpine routes every Sat night/Sunday.
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mother_sheep
Jun 13, 2006, 9:57 PM
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I may be able to get out on Snake, Conundrum, Cross or Refrigerator Couloir before I leave. Let me know if you're interested.
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builttospill
Jun 15, 2006, 6:32 AM
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how much instruction is needed for snow travel? All you need to learn how to do is self arrest and you can learn that yourself, including all angles/positions of possible falling.
Glacier travel is different, but I would imagine you could teach yourself basic snow travel.
But anyways, good luck finding partners. Iceisnice posts up from time to time looking for partners in Colorado, so maybe you'll have some luck. I live in Utah, so no dice.
Have fun though.
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mother_sheep
Jun 15, 2006, 2:43 PM
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In reply to: how much instruction is needed for snow travel?
It depends. On steep couloirs it would be helpful to know how to build snow anchors (if you plan on placing gear), place pickets, proper belay technique and the ability to analyze the snow, especially this time of year when there is so much wet snow out there.
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iceisnice
Jun 15, 2006, 3:45 PM
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builttospill, you are pretty much right. there's not much to learn. there really isn't much that is steep enough to need anchors or belays unless you are talking up a novice. it takes about a day to learn to self arrest. the most important thing is to learn snow conditons/avy conditions and when its best to travel on this kind of terrian. pretty basic stuff actually.
el capitan, what do you have in mind? if you are looking for true alpine climbing (i.e. combing snow, ice, mixed climbing) then there really isn't much in colorado except during the winter. during the summer its just multipitch trad and snow slogs. that's about it.
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el_capitan
Jun 15, 2006, 9:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2002
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iceisnice,
I guess I consider routes like keiners alpine. Dreamweaver is probably melting pretty fast right now if it hasn't melted all the way. You probably have more experience then I do so mind climbing with a newbie (alpine)? I have years of rock (including multipitch) and a few of vertical ice experience. I'm free basically anytime in the next few weeks, during the week and the weekend.
~Sung
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johnhemlock
Jun 15, 2006, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2004
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I climbed Dreamweaver on Tuesday and it is pretty much gone - just some fading snow and a few bits of sad ice. I don't think it'll last until the weekend. I met a couple of lads coming down from Kieners who said it was good but that Broadway was a bit sporty / treacherous.
I'd be up for some long alpine rock climbs in the next few weeks but I think the snow and ice is fading fast around the Front Range.
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