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chitown_coop
Jul 24, 2006, 8:15 PM
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Moved down to San Antonio, Texas this year and have been off the rock for six months. My previous location had no sport-climbing within a reasonable drive, so it was always top-roping (Devil's Lake, WI). Anyway, my wife and I are hoping to get out on the rock again, and we're completely clueless as to how to get started with sport climbing. We've got piles of gear necessary to set up quality top-ropes, but it seems that sport (and to a lesser degree trad) is the thing to do in these parts. We're far from pros, really only comfortable in the 5.7-5.8 range, but we're both two years-ish experienced in belaying each other (and others), etc.
Question is: how can we get started in sport-climbing around here? Should we look for guides? Are some areas better for folks in our range? Anything you've got for me would be awfully helpful.
Thanks!
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chitown_coop
Jul 27, 2006, 9:18 PM
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Are there any other forums/lists that would be better places to get general info like the kind I'm looking for? I've already joined austin_climbers on Yahoo, but I haven't posted anything there yet...
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bryceclarke
Jul 27, 2006, 9:31 PM
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Reimers Ranch is a great place to start sport. Enchanted rock is as well. I would read up on sport method on the web, then go take a lead climbing class at the rock gym closest to your house. Also, Texas A&M offers a class on lead... not really sure if it is a one time class or what not, but my friend that pretty much tought me sport took that class and it sounds really thorough. You can usually find a nice climber at Reimers that would be willing to show you a few things if you have questions.
p.s. Reimers is good for top-roping too, so don't wait to get back out on a wall!
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mhayenga
Jul 27, 2006, 9:51 PM
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Austin n00b climber here who has been researching this as well, despite leaving town here in 2 weeks for Madison.
http://www.erockonline.com/
http://www.texasclimbers.com/
I can't remember which of these sites mentions it, but there is a group of locals that meet Tuesdays/Thrusdays after 5pm (earlier during winter) at New Wall in the greenbelt. I mentioned this to the guy who's been teaching me to belay/climb in a UT class and he knew right off what I was talking about. Apparently its organized by a climber named Pete and if I ever went out there they'd teach me well.
According to the last class(had a "you've now climbed inside, no go outside if possible" class), Riemers would possibly be the best place to go. Enchanted rock isn't all trad, supposedly there are a few TR routes.
Disclaimer for innaccuracy:
I've never used these resources, just know they exist and have been recommended to me.
PS: Have any suggested TR routes at Devil's Lake for someone who only boulders a V1+?
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travelman
Jul 27, 2006, 10:50 PM
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This link will get you to a few topos.
http://texasclimbers.com/dl_showsub.asp?cat_id=10&cat=Topos
It shouldn't be to hard to find someone to help you out at the crag (you will see a bigger crowd at Reimers), but the sure thing would be to take a lead class at a gym in Austin.
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musicman1586
Jul 27, 2006, 11:11 PM
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Well San Antonio is pretty devoid of roped climbing for the most part, inside or out. Your best bet is to drive out to Reimer's Ranch, it's the closest climbing to you that's not bouldering. How was your former crag just top-rope though? Did you set gear for your top-ropes or did you makes your anchors out of bolts in the wall? Anyways, sport leading is fairly simple, can be taught to you in a day (not mastered, taught in a day) and only requires a rope, some quickdraws, and some slings with locking biners to clean. Enchanted Rock has everything: sport, trad, bouldering, and aid, and many of the climbs can be set up on top-rope from the tops of the climbs. I wouldn't say try and make it to the Greenbelt for the Tues and Thurs things, New Wall is about an hour from Reimer's, and there's alot less variety, it's mainly all 11's and 12's with about three 5.9's. Well worth a visit at some point, however doesn't really match what your looking for right now. Reimer's has many many more quality climbs in the ranges that your looking for, so that's probably your best bet.
Kyle
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mhayenga
Jul 28, 2006, 2:41 AM
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In reply to: How was your former crag just top-rope though?
Devil's Lake is hard granite. No bolts, its all trad or tr.
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chitown_coop
Jul 28, 2006, 6:24 PM
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Wow--thanks for the info, everybody--it's exactly what I was looking for. So in general, Reimer's will be the main place to get started; sounds like there are some things available in my range. And I guess I'll try to take a sport class at Austin Rock (unless someone knows of an alternate gym in the area??) to get my bearings before heading out. I know of the group that hits the Greenbelt every week, but is there anything similar for Reimer's? If anyone out there is reading along and thinks they might be up for helping out a novice couple sometime in the future, drop me a line.
It was mentioned that TRing is possible at Reimer's. Are the anchors easily accessible from above, or is it more of a "Hey, could you go hang a TR for me?" sort of thing?
Other related notes:
mahayenga--Lots of great TR routes at Devil's Lake for 5.7--5.9 climbing (I'm guessing your range here?). I tended to hang out on the East Rampart in the Two Pines area as well as the Brinton's area. Ratings here are (supposedly) around a grade harder than some other areas, so be forewarned. Brinton's Crack (5.6) is a particular favorite, and should not be ignored. The Orgasm wall is also pretty nice, with Orgasm (5.8) being a favorite with a nice roof crux move.
No bolts whatsoever at Devil's Lake. All TRs set using gear in cracks and/or natural pro (slinging trees, boulders, etc.).
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cchildre
Jul 28, 2006, 6:42 PM
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Being in SA, I understand that Reimers is a good place with nice close distance. Some other things to consider checking out, that are just a longer drive for you but could bring some variety.
El Paso, Hueco Tanks, Bouldering Heaven that you will never forger, but they have some really nice and easy sport routes. A good way to spend the day is hit some sport stuff early and then move to the boulders to end it. The boulders can kill you in half a day if your unfamiliar with bouldering.
Continental Ranch, West Texas. Some pretty cool sport climbing
Carlsbad, New Mexico - You can check out Sitting Bull Falls for some sweet sport routes, just watch for bees. That Last Chance place is cool too, very hard to find and access, and really wouldn't have a whole lot in your range.
North, the Wichita Wildlife Refuge is Granite Heaven. Lots of Trad, with plenty of TR's for you, but a little long on the drive.
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