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andersmag
Apr 19, 2006, 8:40 PM
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Hi
I'm planning on doing the Cassin Ridge on Denali this May. I have been on the mountain before however not done the Cassin. My questions for those of you who have done the route before are:
-Is the approach to Cassin from 14200 ft camp on the West Buttress (via the West Rib colouir) a safe and preferable approach (rather than going via the NE fork)?
-Is the bergschrund below the first rock band easy to cross? I have heard that in previous years, one had to rappel and make an exposed traverse to get across but that it would be easier now?
Thanks
Magnus
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kimgraves
Apr 21, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Hi Magnus,
Did you check Super Taco? They have a free download of the topo for Denali's
Cassin Ridge. The download covers both the NE Fork and the West Rib approaches.
Good trip!
Best, Kim
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angusmacginny
Apr 21, 2006, 10:12 PM
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The answer to the question is it depends. Mostly on snow conditions. I assume you are planning on Acclimatizing at 14k and then down climbing the lower west rib. This is a very feasable approach and gets done quite often. If the lower west rib is very icy then this could be a very long and dangerous downclimb. If the snow conditions are a little softer then this is quite likely the preferable option. Also take a look at the NE fork when you are carrying loads and see how broken up it is. If it is totally fucked then it is a no brainer to downclimb the west rib. It can be downclimbed from 14 to a safe camp in a day without too much problem.
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skiclimb
Apr 29, 2006, 1:01 AM
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The crevasse varies from year to year.. call the Talkeetna ranger station . But if going in May they may not have info. Good thing about may is that it is more likely to be filled.. bad thing is may is significantly colder and usually stormier than june.
As far as using the west rib cutoff form 14.2 to the shoulder at around 16k to descend the westrib..this is usually a poor Idea. Descending the westrib is steep and often Icy also you have to climb a lot of vert to get to the rib.
I might seriously consider it if I KNEW snow conditions on lower rib were good and that the lower NE fork was rediculously poor this year.
DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE DIFFICULTY AND TIME CONSUMING NATURE OF DESCENDING THE LOWER RIB IN ICY CONDITIONS.
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andersmag
May 1, 2006, 8:53 PM
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Thank you all for your helpful information, I will have a closer look at the conditions on the lower West Rib before doing the down climb and owill consider the NE fork instead. Magnus
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andersmag
Aug 3, 2006, 8:02 AM
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HI
I thought I could share some information from the Cassin Ridge for those of you thinking of attempting it next summer.
Me and and my partner did the Cassin early June after acklimatising on the West Buttress to the summit prior to the acsent. We approached the Cassin via the West Rib which was very smooth and much faster than using the NE Fork approach. We heard reports of icefall and difficult conditions in the NE Fork from the Rangers although we didn't get a chance to go there and check it out (the report said parties had to turn around dur to very difficult terrain in the NE Fork). The Rib was good, avalanche conditions were bad in some parts but could easily be circumvented by down climbing on ridges. We did one rappel in the Chicken colouir but I guess we could have done without it as well. It took appr. 6 hours from the 14200 camp to the bergschrund below the Japanese colouir.
Conditions were dry. The past two winters have been dry as well so we found the climbing to include less snow and more hard ice. This made it possible to move faster but it was hard on the calves. The Japanese was pure ice all the way and mixed at the top due to the dry conditions.
The Ice Rib was good and possible to protect with ice screws.
The bergschrund on the hanging glacier was very easy and could be passed via a bridge on the right hand side.
We got lost in the second rock band. The dry conditions made the standard colouir that accesses the second rock band look very difficult so we circumvented it on the far left (which was why we got a bit lost). It was possible to traverse back to the standard route higher up.
The snow was hard packed which made it easier on the higher parts.
We made two bivis except for by the bergschrund under the Japanese: on the hanging glacier (very good) and atop the third rock band. I would think that any bivi in between the rock bands would be very exposed and not so comfortable.
We spent two and a half day on the route plus one day for the approach.
It was a great route and good luck to anyone attempting it.
magnus
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kimgraves
Aug 3, 2006, 1:00 PM
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Magnus,
Congrats on your success. You you post this under Trip Reports as well. Do you have pictures?
Best, Kim
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builttospill
Aug 4, 2006, 9:55 AM
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nice work. definitely a big congratulations.
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andersmag
Aug 4, 2006, 10:24 AM
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Hi Kim
Thanks, I would be happy to share some photos once I have got settled and organised again. Magnus
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