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thelockdude
Sep 21, 2006, 4:23 AM
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I'm planning a 5-day trip with my gf to JT in December. I can lead about 5.3 or 5.4. Or we may TR some routes instead since I'm a new-ish leader. We can do 5.6's to 5.8's on top rope.
I see that Joshua Tree is HUGE (compared to the gunks where I usally climb.)
I'd like to make the most of this trip, so I'm hoping some knowledgable folks from here could advise which section or two of JT has climbs best suited to the ability levels I've described above. I don't care whether it's face, crack, chimney, off-width, or whatever.
I would like to try to concentrate on an area that would have a pretty good number of routes to choose from, in our ability range.
Thanks for any help!
Dan
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beesty511
Sep 21, 2006, 4:38 AM
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Unless you hire a guide, you aren't going to be doing much climbing in jtree.
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thelockdude
Sep 21, 2006, 4:40 AM
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Why is that?
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joshklingbeil
Sep 21, 2006, 4:41 AM
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Short Wall @ Indian Cove.
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blazesod
Sep 21, 2006, 4:42 AM
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Send me a PM when a few weeks out and we'll go climb.
Cheers,
-Dave
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cosmiccragsman
Sep 21, 2006, 4:47 AM
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Same here Lockdude. Give me a PM.
Blaze and I climb together,and we can
show you around the area pretty well.
Cosmiccragsman
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thelockdude
Sep 21, 2006, 11:32 AM
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BIG thanks to blaze & cosmic! That would be really cool!
All spring and summer, I've brought people from here (rc.com) to the gunks. Guess I acquired some good karma. :D
Josh - thanks for the recommendation!
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billl7
Sep 21, 2006, 1:03 PM
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Went to JT last spring, when I had been leading trad less than a year. At that level, it seemed that a lot of route research in advance helped to not waste time driving/walking from location to location. At the time, I was barely starting to lead 5.7 and neither of us had any experience climbing at JT.
We spent the 1st weekend at Indian Cove. And we spent about 5 days around Hidden Valley and environs. In hind sight, Indian Cove was about right although there are the occasional run-outs anywhere. Still found plenty to do.
Again: route research! There are plenty of routes but need to avoid the sandbags and the run-outs that are near your limit.
Hooking up with someone knowledgable of the area (as has been offered) could be invaluable for your level.
JT is great for learning what is possible with your feet IMHO. Hope you have a great trip!
Bill L
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victor999
Sep 21, 2006, 1:34 PM
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go to Real Hidden Valley and find the Thin Wall. easy to set-up TR, great area to practice gear placement, too. it has a fun 5.6 and 5.7, among others.
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el_jerko
Sep 21, 2006, 3:49 PM
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Yeah I didn't think about the Thin Wall, but it is easy to find, easy walk, has several easy-moderate routes, good gear and easy top rope set ups. I second the motion.
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rockguide
Sep 21, 2006, 4:02 PM
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On warm days the upper park is good for climbing as well.
The south face of Trashcan rock has some great low 5th class routes to lead (and a bolted 5.7 - caution to the first bolt) and some good 5.8s and higher to top rope.
Cap rock also has some great low 5th class leads. Don't miss the bolted 5.6+ Headstone (could this be the first "sport route" in North America?)
Toe Jam is a great 5.7 - for leading as well. Very forgiving. Avoid Double Cross (5.7++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++) You have been warned.
B
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2006, 6:11 PM
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why do people always flail/fear/warn others on double cross? that thing is 5.7, assuming you know how to jam. It ain't 5.8.
but back to the original question, Short Wall in indian cove and trashcan rock are the best bets. There's also a guide with 60 climbs from 5.5 to 5.9 that might be worth a look.
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alpinismo_flujo
Sep 21, 2006, 7:00 PM
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Good advice given so far. You'll enjoy Josh for sure!!
I learned to lead there, so I know where the easies are..if you're coming out in December PM me and I'll show you around too.
I can feel the good Karma vibe flowing...
There's that book out that has 5.9's and under. "Trad Guide to..." Great (color) pics and very descriptive.
http://www.rei.com/...4086&vcat=REI_SEARCH
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climballnight
Sep 21, 2006, 7:18 PM
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Regarding Headstone Rock, while its one of my all time favorite routes at JT, it is 5.6R, so if you're only leading at the 5.6-5.7 level, you will sweat on that route. :shock:
As you get into trad at JT, I highly recommend checking out the book "The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree (for 5.5-5.9)". I love that book!
Have fun!
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climballnight
Sep 21, 2006, 7:21 PM
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:lol:
Ha ha ha... I guess we both share the same advice! Well, its a good book!
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cosmiccragsman
Sep 21, 2006, 7:33 PM
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Looks like you won't have a problem finding a
partner, Lockdude. :D There are a lot of climbers out there
during that time of year.
Pm Blazesod, or me, for any Park and/or climbing info.
Cosmiccragsman
Hey Blaze, did Bako_prc get a hold of you?
If he did, and you guys are, have FUN this weekend.
I'll be in Vegas this weekend covering the Nascar
Truck Races. :(
CC
Forgot to add, I will be climbing at RR tomorrow :D
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toejam
Sep 21, 2006, 7:42 PM
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The Blob in hidden valley campground has a few easy routes commonly soloed. Cyclops Formation also has a very easy but fun climb. I don't remember seeing a lot of placements for the latter though.
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thelockdude
Sep 22, 2006, 5:18 AM
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Oh man!!! There are a lot of replies in this thread...thanks everyone! Don't know why I didn't get any email notifications...
Thanks for all the tips on good spots to climb. I'm starting a little folder with tips like these. I've looked at that book a couple of times (The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree for 5.5-5.9) but that's just a little above my climbing ability right now. Next year!!
Thanks to alpinismo_flujo for the offer to climb together. I am already in danger of spreading myself too thin. I accepted blaze's and cosmic's offers, AND someone else who pm'd me. I don't want to turn my 5 day vacation (in a place I'm unfamiliar with) into a nightmare of meetings and schedules. I hope I'm not being rude and I am definitely feeling grateful for the offer, but I cannot accept it at this time. Thank you very much though!
Dan
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curt
Sep 22, 2006, 5:27 AM
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In reply to: why do people always flail/fear/warn others on double cross? that thing is 5.7, assuming you know how to jam. It ain't 5.8...
Perhaps because it has killed a number of people--and that can ruin your whole day.
Curt
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tradrenn
Sep 22, 2006, 1:47 PM
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:lol:
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winglady
Sep 22, 2006, 2:11 PM
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Thanks! We loved writing it!
Although you may be able to find our book for less money at Amazon and other book sellers, we do also sell it ourselves at a discount -- and we'll autograph it for you! For those who are interested:
http://www.JoshuaTreeTrad.com (click on the "Winger Bookstore" logo)
Back to the question -- did anyone suggest "The Bong" yet on The Blob formation? Another favorite is "New Toy" 5.6 out at Stirrup Tank. The only downside is that the last 2 times we've been there, bees have been nesting in the wide portion of the crack, which is also the crux. :shock:
Another possibility is "Nutcracker" 5.2 on Cap Rock (not in our book). The first section of the climb is wonderful for a new leader. Unfortunately, the wider section above is pretty awkward and not so easy to protect, although it is still easy climbing.
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jtme
Sep 22, 2006, 2:20 PM
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90% of climbers in JT climb only 10% of the routes there. All of the routes mentioned above are within those 10%.
a few of my favorite's 5.5 and under "outside" the crowded areas that are worth the hike too are:
"39 steps" 5.4* and you can TR a couple of 10a's from the top
"The Chief" 5.5** TR a couple of 7's from the top
"Route 66" 5.4** TR "Hit it Ethel" 5.8** then a short walk to Gilligan's island and TR three quality 9's and a couple of 10's
....................there are many more with solitude and great wilderness
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svilnit
Sep 22, 2006, 2:20 PM
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aww... I want to go out there and play so badly....
hmmm... maybe a nice little winter getaway.
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thelockdude
Oct 26, 2006, 12:54 PM
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Hey everyone!
Shortly after I started this thread, me and my girlfriend got news that she has a torn meniscus. Her knee had been hurting, but we figured it was minor.
We delayed buying our plane tickets because she really couldn't climb (she missed the last few climbs in Sept. and Oct. in New Paltz where me and my NY posse normally climb) and we didn't know if she'd be better by December.
Then she started physical therapy and got an MRI and it's NOT a torn meniscus, it's an inflamed tendon. It's already getting better and we are very optimistic about the trip in December to JT, sooooo...
We bought our tickets.
Here are the dates of our trip:
Monday December 4th to Saturday December 9th.
A lot of people offered to climb with us and show us around and that is really cool of all of you! Some of those offers were for weekends but we’ll be there mid week.
Dave (blazesod) and Dwaine (cosmiccragsman) I hope you guys are available mid-week.
Also, Skipper (justthemaid), you said you might be available during the week.
Thanks to everyone else who I’ve corresponded with privately and who wished us luck on a speedy recovery for Deb’s knee.
Oh, one other thing - we got the route book by randy vogel and a dvd that covers climbing, hiking, and other fun stuff to do in JT. We are really looking forward to this trip!!!
Dan
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