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eric_k
Oct 7, 2006, 3:09 AM
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I have a mammut Galaxy 10mm. It is a great rope which has taken a about 20 or so small lead falls (no more than 4 feet), only one that was long (about 15 or 20 feet). It is a great light rope and I want to keep it. But I want to get another rope which is going to be more durable and better for working out routes where I will fall a lot. REI has a Mammut Flash Superdry 10.5mm on sale for 159.99. Would this be a good rope or should I look at getting a different rope. Also, my galaxy is not going to need to be retired yet right. Should I cut off 20 feet of it, or just climb on the other end of the rope? What are your suggestions?
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curt
Oct 7, 2006, 4:01 AM
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You will be hard pressed to find a more durable rope than Mammut. IMO, they have been making the best climbing ropes for decades. As to whether your current rope should be retired, more information is needed. If your 20 foot fall happened when there was 100 feet of rope between you and your belayer, no problem--you don't have to do anything and can keep using your rope with no worries. If, on the other hand, your 20 foot fall happened with only 10 feet of rope out--that is a severe "fall-factor" 2 event--and is very hard on your rope. In that case, I would indeed recommend that you cut that end of the rope off or (better yet) limit it's use to top-roping.
Curt
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eric_k
Oct 7, 2006, 5:06 AM
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It was about a 15 foot fall and the belayer was pulled about 5 feet toward the wall and there was about 30 or 40 feet of rope out. How do you figure out fall factors again?
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overlord
Oct 7, 2006, 7:21 AM
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(fall factor)=(length of fall)/(length of rope)
length of fall is the distance between the falling point and the point where the climber stopped fallling.
length of rope is the length of rope between the climber and the belayer.
that offcourse assumes a static belay (the belayer doenst move). if the belayer is pulled towards the climber (lifted off the ground, pulled towards the wall), that means a more dynamic belay and reduces the fall factor (though computin it under these circumstances is somewhat difficult).
if the belayer moves away from the climber (jump off a rock, runs away from the wall) to reduce the length of the rope, the belay is more static and the fall factor is increased. that is usually not reccomended, but in certain cases it can save lives (like to stop the climber from decking).
edited to add: mammut ropes are really good. id definitely reccomend them.
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gunkiemike
Oct 7, 2006, 11:17 AM
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I will also suggest you buy that REI rope.
But not because Mammut's last any longer than any other decent rope. I don't believe they do (and I've gone through 3 Flashes and other Mammuts too). I just think they are terrific ropes and that 159 is a good price. If you fall a lot, you will wear out ropes. And that's when price becomes more significant. Too bad the dollar-Euro rate is not so good. Back when it was, you could buy a decent Czech rope for $80-100.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 12, 2006, 3:37 AM
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Mammut is TOP Quality
I do not think you could go wrong with this rope and this is why I own two of them, both 50M and 60M. I use mine for both lead and toprope and they have held up nicely. I do not have much to compare with because I don't need any other rope, nor will I be needing one anytime soon. Bottom line, Fantastic, and I think that its just what your looking for. The Mammut SuperSafe is on the expensive side, but will be awsome for being a workhorse
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jimdavis
Oct 12, 2006, 4:59 AM
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I still have yet to see why Mammut ropes are all that spectacular. I've climbed on a few, and never though they held a candle to my BlueWater or Sterling.
I guess since I don't rave about BD cams, or Petzl biners, though...I just wouldn't get it. :roll:
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curt
Oct 12, 2006, 5:10 AM
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In reply to: I still have yet to see why Mammut ropes are all that spectacular. I've climbed on a few, and never though(t) they held a candle to my BlueWater or Sterling.
Good thing. You would never want a candle held to your rope.
Curt
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climbinginchico
Oct 12, 2006, 6:43 AM
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My flash is a wonderful rope, if a bit heavy...
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