|
reese_7
Oct 11, 2006, 5:13 AM
Post #1 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
I'll be trying out Ice climbing for the first time, in Ouray, at the Ice festival. I'd really like to know others tips on how to train for ice climbing. Are there specific muscles that you use for Ice, that you don't on rock? Is there anything you wish you knew before you made your first ice climb?
I'd also love to hear stories from others that have made the transition.
Thanks
~Reese
|
|
|
|
|
carabiner96
Oct 11, 2006, 5:18 AM
Post #2 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
|
I wish i had known how badly it would hurt. Would've bought the aspirin ahead of time instead of limping into the CVS.
|
|
|
|
|
easton
Oct 11, 2006, 8:09 AM
Post #3 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2004
Posts: 250
|
You'll be fine. Until you get into the mixed or serious overhanging stuff it will be similar to the climbing you have done. The hard part is trusting the little bit of metal "scratching the surface". Just remember to clip in your leashes. My first leashless climb was by accident. It is a very different feel, but sign up for a basic ice class and you will get the beta you need. Enjoy, and tell Ron hello when you see him naked at the hot tub.
|
|
|
|
|
avitripp
Oct 11, 2006, 8:10 AM
Post #4 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 67
|
Ice climbing, like rock climbing, is mostly about footwork. Pay attention to your feet, look for natural edges and foot placements very common on ice, use them.
Resist the urge to lift your heels.
A lot of beginners in both disciplines make the mistake of focusing on what's going on with their hands. Instead of using your hands to move up your feet, use your feet to move up your hands. With ice climbing, your holds are always the same two jugs, your tools. Good footwork will help you keep from pumping out quickly. Just like when you are climbing on vertical rock, keep your feet directly under your hands when you are not moving, as opposed to in some contorted position. This is not always possible, I know, but its a good start.
Look for natural features, like dihedrals where you can stem or ledges, in the ice that help take the weight off your hands.
Another way to avoid the pump is to relax your arms when you are not moving. Straighten your arms and relax your grip. Don't climb tense, it's a great way to sap energy.
Climbing efficiently, from stance to stance, will help you rest in between moves. Look at where on the climb you may get good stances before you start up and break the climb up into smaller pieces this way.
Another trick is to hook features with your tools where possible, don't swing if you don't need to. Most ice is really featured and abundant hooking placements may be found on lots of climbs. This will save tons of energy, it can feel a bit less secure then having that pick buried to the hilt, but if you can get used to climbing this way you'll find WI4 a bit like 5.9 rock(albeit with all the gear marginal).
A solid foundation on rock will help out a lot, and I've found a good way to train for ice by doing laps on a long 5.10 climb on the roof in the gym. Any really steep climb that puts a lot of weight on the arms that you can train for endurance will help.
The final component is the head game. If you are comfortable climbing WI4-5, then in many cases you are climbing 5.9-5.10 on marginal or sometimes no gear. The better you are at controlling the pump and maintaining good technique the easier it will be to forget about how dangerous it is to fall on ice.
Lastly. Find an experienced partner and have them show you HOW TO SHARPEN YOUR PICKS. Properly sharped picks make a world of difference. Most factory picks need A LOT of modification off the shelf. The BD Laser is an exception.
GO to Ouray. You can get so much mileage there. And take a lesson or course from a helpful, certified guide.
Have Fun!
|
|
|
|
|
reese_7
Oct 11, 2006, 1:59 PM
Post #5 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
Ok, aspirin, check :lol:
Easton: Thanks for the encouragement! Are planning on making it to Ouray?
Avitripp: I think I'm going to print off your post and bring it with me. Thanks for all the great advice. Sounds like you have been doing this a while!
~Reese
|
|
|
|
|
carabiner96
Oct 11, 2006, 2:00 PM
Post #6 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
|
Actually, I'm planning on being at the Ouray ice fest this year, maybe i'll see you there!
|
|
|
|
|
redpointron
Oct 11, 2006, 2:16 PM
Post #7 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2003
Posts: 1170
|
In reply to: Enjoy, and tell Ron hello when you see him naked at the hot tub.
who me? :oops:
r.r.
|
|
|
|
|
reese_7
Oct 11, 2006, 2:34 PM
Post #8 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
In reply to: easton wrote: Enjoy, and tell Ron hello when you see him naked at the hot tub. In reply to: redpointron wrote: who me?
we’ve heard the stories :D
|
|
|
|
|
hammerless_7
Oct 11, 2006, 2:52 PM
Post #9 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 77
|
Hey Reese its all about the calves, to get my calves in shape I stand on a concrete step with just the front points of my crampons touching, then do deep knee bends one leg at a time until my calves can take it no more.
It works, try it every second day for a week or so before you go climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Oct 11, 2006, 3:58 PM
Post #10 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Some good tips so far.
To get you hands used to the cold stick them in ice water till they are numb and then 'just' as they start to warm up, clap them together to warm them up fast. :shock: :lol:
More seriously though, calve raises and hanging off tools is a good start. If you can't get you hands on a set of tools, then try some dowel and do dead hangs on them. You use a slightly different set of muscles in you forearm holding ice tool than you do on rock (think about the orientation of your hand while holding the tool). Train them a bit and you won't get pumped so bad/fast. Not getting pumped keeps the bloodflow in your hands and fingers, this in turn helps keep the screaming barfies away. Avoid trying to high step on ice. Later on you'll figure out when high stepping is good. A lot of first time/new ice climbers have trouble because of this. Another thing first time/new ice climbers strugle with is swinging the axe properly. Practice with your less dominant hand with a hammer or something so you get a controled swing. Also, when you are holding your tools try to make sure the pick is oriented straight ahead to a little bit inward. If when you hold your arm out the pick is pointing slightly to the outside adjust your grip, you'll get better sticks that way.
Have fun and good luck with the black and blue fingers :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
reese_7
Oct 11, 2006, 11:42 PM
Post #11 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
Thanks for the tip about the calve raises and thanks for the dowel idea!
In reply to: Have fun and good luck with the black and blue fingers
Any glove recommendations to avoid the black and blue fingers :shock: ?
~Reese
*Edited to fix my funky spelling
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Oct 11, 2006, 11:55 PM
Post #12 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
you're going to use your "oh shit" muscles quite a bit, i'd say.
:D
try doing rollies, though. Take a broom handle, put a weight on a string so you can hold it in front of you without it hitting the ground (around waist level), and roll it up, then roll it down. Up and down, up and down.
do it every day before the ice fest and you'll be able to crush skulls like eggs, or watermellons, etc. You'll have gorilla forearms.
or you could just climb with leashes and go off the couch.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Oct 12, 2006, 2:08 AM
Post #13 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
and you haven't posted in the Ouray Gathering Thread why??? :evil:
just kidding...
"training" wise, I think you'll be fine. whats really important, I feel, is good clothes; ESPECIALLY gloves! gets some waterproof ones! if its a shell, bring along a few liners to switch out when they get wet.
Be wary of the calf thing for sure. stiff boots will help but it won't hurt to do some weighted calf raises and such.
The Ice fest is a great place to start. TONS of people to learn from; not to mention pro's you can take a class with. Access to all sorts of gear for you to try out too so you don't have to fork out all the money to try it out.
|
|
|
|
|
kricir
Oct 12, 2006, 2:15 AM
Post #14 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2005
Posts: 434
|
The main skill that you use in ice climbing that you don’t on rock is of course, placing the tools. Your swing will develop with time.
Rule #1 – If you are leading, DON’T FALL! (Unless you like broken ankles)
Rule #2 – Don’t go to the ice fest with the idea that you will be able to get a lot of climbing in, or any for that matter. (Unless you are one of those people willing to wake up at 5 am to go hang a TR, in which case you better let me use it!)
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Oct 12, 2006, 2:19 AM
Post #15 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: ...Rule #2 – Don’t go to the ice fest with the idea that you will be able to get a lot of climbing in, or any for that matter. (Unless you are one of those people willing to wake up at 5 am to go hang a TR, in which case you better let me use it!)
The ONLY way I'll be up at 5am during the fest is that I've been up all night... :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Oct 12, 2006, 2:29 AM
Post #16 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
Do lots of pull ups, drink plenty of dark beer, and eat a lot a cheeseburgers.
Between a little extra body fat (insulation) and upper body strength...you'll be all set.
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
reese_7
Oct 12, 2006, 4:24 AM
Post #17 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
In reply to: and you haven't posted in the Ouray Gathering Thread why??? :evil:
:roll: Well Anykineclimb, for your information I did post on the Ouray thread. But, it wasn't all that interesting of a post. I totally would have ignored it too. I can post again, if you like? :lol:
In reply to: drink plenty of dark beer, and eat a lot a cheeseburgers.
I wish this was the way to whip my a** into shape! My workout would consist of pulling myself up a bar stool, curling my frosty mug, and doing 8 reps of burger biting.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Oct 12, 2006, 4:56 AM
Post #18 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: In reply to: and you haven't posted in the Ouray Gathering Thread why??? :evil: :roll: Well Anykineclimb, for your information I did post on the Ouray thread. But, it wasn't all that interesting of a post. I totally would have ignored it too. I can post again, if you like? :lol:
please do
;)
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Oct 12, 2006, 7:03 AM
Post #19 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
In reply to: In reply to: easton wrote: Enjoy, and tell Ron hello when you see him naked at the hot tub. In reply to: redpointron wrote: who me? we’ve heard the stories :D
Short stories, no doubt. :shock:
Though, to get to the original question, I proudly offer you my Eight-step Reno Enduro Climbing Training (ERECT) System:
1. Spend $4000 on "technical performance" clothing that is guaranteed to wick sweat, keep you warm and dry, and is made from rip proof fabric. Take it out of the box, put it on, and admire the look, because the first time you actually wear it climbing, you will be sweating like a whore in church, drenched in water, colder than a witches tit, and large tears will develop in the fabric.
2. Take a couple of claw hammers, a large sheet of pressboard, and a hose. Turn on the hose, aim the water at the pressboard, and keep it up until the wood is soaking wet. Use this to perfect your tool swinging technique.
3. From time to time, have your best friend pour a bucket of ice water down your back and throw ice cubes at your head (a slingshot works well for this.)
4. When practicing the tool placement technique, wear rollerskates. This will approximate the sensation of crampon placement on mixed routes.
5. Try not to squirm as rivulets of sweat find their way to your backside and slowly trickle down your crack. No matter what, you should resist at all costs the urge to scratch your crack with the business end of your ice tools. There is no good that can come from that. Trust me.
6. For the true alpine experience, do this with a 40 pound pack.
7. Proceed to the local el mercado (grocery store) and purchase some dried poblano peppers. Grind them into a fine dust consistency, and shove a pinch up each nostril. Without moving your tool placements, try to wipe the resultant snot on your gloves.
8. Retire to the hot tub, drink cold beers, and talk about how great it was and how you look forward to going tomorrow, too.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Oct 12, 2006, 12:21 PM
Post #20 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
get a job banging nails or as a mason tender. Swing that framing hammer with your left hand a lot. Either one of these jobs should teach you the required drinking skills 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
reese_7
Oct 14, 2006, 12:34 AM
Post #22 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 57
|
In reply to: Short stories, no doubt. :shock:.
Picking on Ron while he is on vacation, I bet he'll have a few words for you when he returns.
Wow, I have some odd stuff to accomplish by January. I wonder if I can wear roller skates at my new job, as a finishing carpenter.
Thanks for the odd tips, I never would have thought to practice my swing but it definitely makes sense.
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Oct 14, 2006, 1:20 AM
Post #23 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
In reply to: I never would have thought to practice my swing but it definitely makes sense.
It makes a big difference. Getting good sticks with the "weak" hand can be tough if you can't swing well with it.
|
|
|
|
|
redlegrangerone
Oct 14, 2006, 1:46 AM
Post #24 of 27
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851
|
Last season was my first experience on ice. The two problems I had were swinging with the left hand and tired calves. You have no idea how tired they can get standing on a point. Tired arms were not a problem. Also, if you can get a good instructor it really helps.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
