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climbeverything
Oct 19, 2006, 1:43 PM
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weighted chinups and climbing trees
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fluxus
Oct 19, 2006, 7:58 PM
Post #52 of 67
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In reply to: . . . even though I'm just an intermediate-level climber, I simply didn't find it helpful. No offense, but I would list the things I picked up from the book had there been any. I opened the package, skimmed through the book, clicked through the DVD, nothing caught my attention, so I put everyting on the shelf and never touched it again. But again, this is my personal opinion guys, ok?
Of course its your personal opinion, no problem with that at all.
But you don't answer the question, except to suggest that you formed your opinion without actually reading the book. If all you did was "skimm" and "click throught" how could you possibly know if it has any use or not?
If you actually had something well informed and critically engaged to back up your person opinion that would have been great. Probably could have led to an interesting discussion.
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anykineclimb
Oct 19, 2006, 9:08 PM
Post #53 of 67
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hey Heiko, I'll take the book and DVD off your hands.
Maybe I can find it less useless?
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jonescd
Oct 19, 2006, 9:27 PM
Post #54 of 67
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Registered: Jun 28, 2006
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Raw food diet and lots of raw garlic before bed.
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seven
Oct 19, 2006, 9:37 PM
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Climbing easy routes with no hands, then the same routes with no feet.
it really helps you to focus on placement :)
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collegekid
Oct 20, 2006, 12:42 AM
Post #56 of 67
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Number One:
Deciding that I would dedicate my climbing time to getting stronger, and deciding to learn how to get stronger.
Number Two:
Following through on Number One.
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ericbeyeler
Oct 20, 2006, 2:39 AM
Post #57 of 67
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In reply to: There's only one thing that comes to mind when I think about what has helped me climb harder. I'm 6'2" and the extra height means more weight to carry up the wall, so it's essential I cut every ounce possible. An hour or two before I hit a realy hard climb I down a whole bunch of laxatives. After 45 minutes or so all the extra, uh... retained weight, will be violently expelled from your system. You'll feel ten pounds lighter! Trust me, this is the key to nailing those hard sends!
At 205 lbs plus 20 lbs of gear I don't think a few ounces will make much of a difference to me ;) I do need to work on thinning my rack to fit the route though.
I will add two more things that have really helped (echoing others' comments) - balance, and learning to really trust my feet. Over the past year I have reduced how much I use my arms by concentrating on foot placement (making sure my shoes are clean really helps with this). I can thank an A2 pulley injury last winter for forcing me to use my feet more and also learning to use the easier-on-your-tendons open hand grip almost exclusively.
Eric
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ja1484
Oct 20, 2006, 4:31 AM
Post #58 of 67
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- There is no substitute for hard work. Climb hard, and climb often.
- Pay attention to your body. Don't climb so hard and often that you injure yourself.
- CROSS TRAIN. I cannot stress this enough. I don't care if you prefer to sport climb - your crack technique will suffer if that's all you do. Like bouldering? Fine, but you won't have endurance for more than 6 moves unless you get on the ropes regularly. A trad head? Right on, but you'd better hit those boulders regularly enough to get some power for those do-or-die cruxes. People who eschew all forms of climbing except their most preferred either aren't ambitious or are dangerously short-sighted.
Like climbing? Awesome, but you need to be in the gym too. Resistance training, cardiovascular training, balance, flexibility, and more add so much to your arsenal.
- Keep your mind hungry. You should never stop looking for ways to do things safer, or for opportunities to pick up tips from others, or for chances to learn about your gear more thoroughly. Wanting to learn and grow will lead to learning and growth - including that of your climbing ability.
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enjoimx
Oct 20, 2006, 4:47 AM
Post #59 of 67
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When climbing became personal, i improved.
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themadmilkman
Oct 20, 2006, 5:42 AM
Post #60 of 67
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My best improvements always came after TRing routes that were way out of my range and having another climber talk me through the moves of the climb. It let me see what I could do and what I would need to work on.
My other key factor was to take time off. I'm not talking about rest days. I'm talking about boxing up your gear and not touching it for two or three weeks. Stay away from the gym/crag. Don't open any magazines or books you have sitting around. After your time off, you'll almost invariably come back with a clearer head and better focus.
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rome2282
Oct 20, 2006, 2:34 PM
Post #61 of 67
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In reply to: In reply to: . . . even though I'm just an intermediate-level climber, I simply didn't find it helpful. No offense, but I would list the things I picked up from the book had there been any. I opened the package, skimmed through the book, clicked through the DVD, nothing caught my attention, so I put everyting on the shelf and never touched it again. But again, this is my personal opinion guys, ok? Of course its your personal opinion, no problem with that at all. But you don't answer the question, except to suggest that you formed your opinion without actually reading the book. If all you did was "skimm" and "click throught" how could you possibly know if it has any use or not? If you actually had something well informed and critically engaged to back up your person opinion that would have been great. Probably could have led to an interesting discussion.
To continue the thread jack...
Fluxus, one thing I noticed about your book (well climbing how-to books in general) is the relevancy and impact of different sections at different points in the learning process. I believe there is some sort of semi-fixed critical sequence of learning that applies to climbing. Until I've reached the next milestone certain techniques/topics just don't click. You can read them and believe you understand them but they just don't apply until the previous steps/milestones are understood. (I.e. trying to flag before learning to feel balance)
Because of this, I’ve made it a habit to pick your book up from time to time and re-read sections of it. I've been amazed how a chapter that seemed so obvious on first read, now has deeper meaning behind it. I’d suggest this approach to anyone trying to improve by reading about it. Sections like Movement Centers still seem far in my future. It's an easy concept on paper but I have much more to learn and a lot of climbing to do before I feel that I could truly grasp the concepts in that section.
As far as actual criticism, the only thing I could think of is – tighter integration with the actual climbing movements. This is hard for me to explain and it is something that your book does much better then some of the others (especially with the DVD) but certain chapters steer away from climbing movement. The chapter on physiology had my interest peaked but there wasn’t any connection between the specific muscle groups and their impact on specific climbing moves. Large sections of the balance chapters also steered away from climbing moves. The parts that demonstrated balance in various movement sequences really did it nicely. I’m not sure if this is something that would help others but I’m at a point in the learning process where I’m trying to feel and find efficiencies. Seeing the moves illustrated and compared with less efficient options really demonstrates WHY and HOW different movement sequences affect overall efficiency.
Other then that, I’d have to say great book especially tied with frequent climbing.
[/End further thread jack….]
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heiko
Oct 20, 2006, 2:54 PM
Post #62 of 67
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[quote="fluxus"]
Of course its your personal opinion, no problem with that at all.
In reply to: But you don't answer the question, except to suggest that you formed your opinion without actually reading the book. If all you did was "skimm" and "click throught" how could you possibly know if it has any use or not?
I'm a researcher, I review scientific publications. Finding out whether a climbing book with a lot of photos has anything valuable in store for me doesn't take me very long. I repeat, I was saying that FOR ME the book was kinda useless, I was not giving a review of it (and I'm not intending to, as that is what I get paid for ;) )
Best,
Heiko
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braaaaaaaadley
Oct 21, 2006, 4:20 AM
Post #63 of 67
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This may be way obvious... but climb more often. I think the past two months of climbing three times a week in the local gym has done wonders far greater than my typical once a week sessions have done for the past two years. Also, as many others have suggested, bouldering long traverses will help wonders with your feet. You new people should start there. :D :wink:
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jeff_m
Oct 21, 2006, 4:56 AM
Post #64 of 67
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Registered: Apr 17, 2006
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In reply to: My other key factor was to take time off. I'm not talking about rest days. I'm talking about boxing up your gear and not touching it for two or three weeks. Stay away from the gym/crag. Don't open any magazines or books you have sitting around.
No f*ing way! I'd be beating the wife or torching the dog if I couldn't get out and rip fingertips on a continuous basis. (And I mean that in the most calm, liberal, non-threatening, unbiased, non-mysogynistic and utterly humane way possible....)
Okay, seriously:
Bouldering constantly (on real rock if you can get it). Once you solve a problem, switch the sequence, start on the opposite foot, add intermediates, etc.
"Flow" (work on finding that magic point of progressing/sequencing: not too fast/not too slow---it's that thing the pros do that looks so damn wonderful---and feels so damn wonderful)
Footwork (duh), but make it a point to REALLY watch where you're going to put your foot and work on sticking it EXACTLY instead of futzing around on the hold until it feels right.
Different types of shoes for different types of climbing (try them all and see what really works----ignore labels, reviews, trends, etc.)
Oh, and just plain COMMIT already!
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themadmilkman
Oct 21, 2006, 8:42 AM
Post #65 of 67
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Registered: May 21, 2006
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I'm not saying take time off every month, only twice a year. Center one around a holiday you like, maybe Christmas. Put the other 6 months from that.
Your body will thank you, dearly.
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heiko
Oct 21, 2006, 9:22 AM
Post #66 of 67
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In reply to: I'm not saying take time off every month, only twice a year. Center one around a holiday you like, maybe Christmas. Put the other 6 months from that. Your body will thank you, dearly.
So will your mind. Unless you're only climbing abundantly bolted sport or low-ball boulder problems, your mind needs a bit of peace, maybe 1 to 2 months per year (not accumulating rest day, I mean full months).
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jeff_m
Oct 21, 2006, 4:41 PM
Post #67 of 67
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Isn't that what sleep's for? (I think 3.8 months of rest per year is enough....) :twisted:
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