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what do YOU think about while setting a route?
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ltj16hb


Nov 4, 2006, 1:48 AM
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what do YOU think about while setting a route?
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please im curious to know....


anykineclimb


Nov 4, 2006, 2:02 AM
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Re: what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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boobies...


Partner j_ung


Nov 4, 2006, 2:36 AM
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Re: what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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Mostly, I think about the route and staying safe while I set it.


delarig


Nov 4, 2006, 2:46 AM
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I think about my ego. I like to put up 5.12s and grade them 5.8 ; )


granite_grrl


Nov 4, 2006, 3:06 AM
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Think of moves to make the route at least mildly interesting.


sustainedclimber


Nov 4, 2006, 3:06 AM
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The same thing every guy thinks about every 7 seconds, sex.


cjsimpso


Nov 4, 2006, 3:11 AM
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Lunch


chossmonkey


Nov 4, 2006, 12:35 PM
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Climbing harder than you. :robert:


tonloc


Nov 4, 2006, 12:50 PM
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I choose a couple moves that I want to be the focus of the route and just see where it goes from there. Variety is very important so it's not just crimp crimp crimp, I just center it around and interesting sequence and build.


rhythm164


Nov 4, 2006, 2:04 PM
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sex, beer, napping...not always in that order...


roadstead


Nov 4, 2006, 4:18 PM
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Just how big should I drill that next move or chip that next hold :wink:


pro_alien


Nov 6, 2006, 1:22 PM
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"I'm getting too old for this"

... and of course a fun name for the route.

Pascal


themadmilkman


Nov 6, 2006, 2:20 PM
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Usually all I can think is 'man this harness is hurting my balls.'

Other than that, sex.


Partner epoch
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Nov 10, 2006, 8:49 PM
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"How can I stump the wonder kid?"

"He he he, Watch this shit!"

And my fav...


"Crimp, Crimp, Reach, Jug, WTF? He he he, Let's make this awkward..."


dlintz


Nov 10, 2006, 9:06 PM
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....about how much red hot lovin' I'll get from the lady climbers.

d.


cam


Nov 11, 2006, 1:33 AM
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Usually my thoughts run through the following but no necessarily in this order...

where are the holds going to go?
what if my anchor blew right NOW.
my legs are numb.
how long have I been up here?
what time is it?
godamn its getting late.
gotta upload the site revisions tomorrow.
I hope that Mars Volta CD isn't in the changer.
I'll have to go down and smash it, if its in the changer.
I should eat something.
I'll have to go down for that.
fuck I hate my bosses boss
if Mars Volta starts playing I'll go down, grab a bite and a hammer.
where are the holds going to go?
hope I don't drop the t-wrench
man its creepy in here at 3am.
I hope that Sinatra CD is in the changer, he's bad-ass.
I think that (female climber) would be better off with me and not him.
This isn't hard enough, Bigboy's going to cruise it.
Fuck this harness is uncomfortable, WHY do I always bring THIS one?
"Waiting for Rockclimbing.com"
Too bad Dan couldn't set tonight, then if my anchor blew right... NOW there'd be someone here to help me and it wouldn't be so creepy in here.
man her BF seems like such a dick, i'd never treat her like tha-FUCKING MARS VOLTA GOD DAMNIT!
descend descend descend
bite bite, yum yum
smash smash smash
do dooo, do do doooooo, "that's why the ladyyyyyy is a tramp", do dooo, do do doooooo
Sinatra's such a cool motherfucker
bite bite, yum yum, gulp
ascend ascend ascend
what if my anchor blew right....NOW
there's not enough feet on this route
how come my routes always seem to be 5.10's?
crap I forgot to pay the phone bill.
does the fact that I love Starbucks make me one of those yuppie scumbags?
if only Family Guy's wife was real...and Betty Rubble...
if I was a bird, I wouldn't care if my anchor blew right.......NOW.
why is it that i'm so cool and no one seems to notice?
awww, fuckin' t-wrench!
ooo, and Velma! I bet she'd be freakkkkkkkaaaayyyyy.
so I guess "Failed Sending Email" is programmer speak for "Your Message Was Successfully Posted".
my legs are numb again.


that's pretty much it I think, just pick a random spot and loop it from there.


coolklimber


Nov 15, 2006, 1:15 AM
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Re: [cam] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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[reply]Usually my thoughts run through the following but no necessarily in this order...

where are the holds going to go?
what if my anchor blew right NOW.
my legs are numb.
how long have I been up here?
what time is it?
godamn its getting late.
gotta upload the site revisions tomorrow.
I hope that Mars Volta CD isn't in the changer.
I'll have to go down and smash it, if its in the changer.
I should eat something.
I'll have to go down for that.
fuck I hate my bosses boss
if Mars Volta starts playing I'll go down, grab a bite and a hammer.
where are the holds going to go?
hope I don't drop the t-wrench
man its creepy in here at 3am.
I hope that Sinatra CD is in the changer, he's bad-ass.
I think that (female climber) would be better off with me and not him.
This isn't hard enough, Bigboy's going to cruise it.
Fuck this harness is uncomfortable, WHY do I always bring THIS one?
"Waiting for Rockclimbing.com"
Too bad Dan couldn't set tonight, then if my anchor blew right... NOW there'd be someone here to help me and it wouldn't be so creepy in here.
man her BF seems like such a dick, i'd never treat her like tha-FUCKING MARS VOLTA GOD DAMNIT!
descend descend descend
bite bite, yum yum
smash smash smash
do dooo, do do doooooo, "that's why the ladyyyyyy is a tramp", do dooo, do do doooooo
Sinatra's such a cool motherfucker
bite bite, yum yum, gulp
ascend ascend ascend
what if my anchor blew right....NOW
there's not enough feet on this route
how come my routes always seem to be 5.10's?
crap I forgot to pay the phone bill.
does the fact that I love Starbucks make me one of those yuppie scumbags?
if only Family Guy's wife was real...and Betty Rubble...
if I was a bird, I wouldn't care if my anchor blew right.......NOW.
why is it that i'm so cool and no one seems to notice?
awww, fuckin' t-wrench!
ooo, and Velma! I bet she'd be freakkkkkkkaaaayyyyy.
so I guess "Failed Sending Email" is programmer speak for "Your Message Was Successfully Posted".
my legs are numb again.


that's pretty much it I think, just pick a random spot and loop it from there.[/reply]


Nice!:)[cool]


kricir


Nov 15, 2006, 1:56 AM
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Re: [coolklimber] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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You are right sir, Sinatra is the man, but what’s so bad about mars volta? I’m not sure how I would feel about climbing a route that was set by someone who didn’t like mars volta.


nevenneve


Nov 16, 2006, 11:58 AM
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Re: [kricir] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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I think about how to piss off the gym crowd. More specifically, I set stuff that will disturb their urbane notion of aesthetic movement and structure. Most times it is built upon profanely delicate movements through sequences that are hard to initially discern. That and trapping them into dead ends requiring some finicky readjustment and critical thinking under duress.

Ditto on all the mars volta thoughts. Honestly, everything else fades in and out around my constant worries of dropping something on a little kid since they are in the majority during the middle of the day when I set.


shock


Nov 16, 2006, 1:49 PM
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Re: [nevenneve] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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Usually what grip to put where, how small/crappy a grip I can use and how, awkward can I make the a move.

But for me the fun comes after the routes finished when i mainly think: "Damn! another one of my routes I cant do!"


percious


Nov 16, 2006, 4:12 PM
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Re: [cam] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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My version:

Damn, Now I'm gonna need a chair.
I wonder if the Y has a ladder around.
I wonder if anyone would notice if I stole it.
Ok, my arms are numb. Guess its time to harness up and really get this thing going.
Is this supposed to be a 5.6?
How come I try an easy route and it always hits 5.8. Oh well, 5.8 it is.
Damn, climbing with a bucket of holds sucks when all you've got is a 5.10 to climb.
Employ prussiks?
Sh*t no! Antigravity training, right?
hmm. Maybe I should climb all the way up and set top-down.
Nah, top-down routes suck.
Awe crap. Forgot my wrenches.
Thank god Nick knows how to throw up a wrench (or 3)
Crap. Stupid T-nut is stripped.
Hey! send me up the tap!
Hey look, these bolts I have been leading on all month are SUPER loose!
Should I bother tightening them?
God I hate setting on an overhang.
Why doesn't our gym have more slabby stuff?
Well, if I can do the move with this heavy-a** bucket it must be easy.
I really gotta set more routes I can't climb so I can get better.
Hey! that guy's not double backed.
Why don't the climbers at our gym WANT to wear climbing shoes?
I'm going to make Nick vacuum tonight, because I can.
I really hate vacuuming.
Alright, lets try this thing ground up.
Dammit, still too hard.
Have to go up and replace holds.
We really need to list the route names and colors out behind plexiglass.
Wonder if I will ever get around to it.

peace.
-chris


cam


Nov 16, 2006, 5:27 PM
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Re: [kricir] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You are right sir, Sinatra is the man, but what’s so bad about mars volta? I’m not sure how I would feel about climbing a route that was set by someone who didn’t like mars volta.

The singers voice makes me want to kill.


stonefoxgirl


Nov 16, 2006, 5:41 PM
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Re: [roadstead] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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Ah hahahaha roadstead, that was awesome! Um so, what do I think about.....welp, if my crack is showing first of all and if I'm puttin up a good route, challenging, but flows and has my personal touch Wink


rainontin


Nov 16, 2006, 5:46 PM
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Re: [cam] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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"I can't feel my legs and this goddamned yellow tape doesn't stick worth shit! Toss me up the worst sloper you can find, I need a finishing hold..."


coastal_climber


Nov 17, 2006, 1:28 AM
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-Can't wait to get up there...
-Wow, I'm high
-Will this rope hold?
-Damn-it, forgot the phone
-I own at route setting, lol
-I can't feel my legs......
-Hmmm, I could you some holds right about now.....
-"checking watch"
-I'm bored
-look out below!

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