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ncclimber
Nov 20, 2006, 4:19 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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Are their any routes up there is it closed, private whats the deal? FA possibility
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madclimbr13
Nov 20, 2006, 4:27 AM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2006
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Hey man check out this website! It tells you all about the routes there.
http://www.deersleapvt.com/
There are some open projects there and there is definitely potential for new routes as well. The routes there already are for the most part pretty good! Enjoy.
Tyler
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ncclimber
Nov 20, 2006, 5:15 AM
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wrong deerleap dude looking for the cliff off rt 116 in bristol vt thanks though
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cragb
Nov 20, 2006, 12:38 PM
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I posted up a similiar question not long ago and didn't get much of response...It's closed during peregrine nesting....which I think is January to July...everytime I look at that monster I think the same thing...FA's...I've scrambled the gully that cuts up the middle of it...found a nut hangin off an OLD aid route....I could send you a picture of a route I've scoped at the base...if you want to go check it out I'd definitely be interested...
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cfnubbler
Nov 20, 2006, 2:27 PM
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The old aid route you mentioned isn't really that old...about 10 years at most, if memory serves. It was a fun rope-solo diversion on a partnerless day. With some scrubbing, it will go free, and be a fun roof crack problem.
People have been climbing on Deer Leap in Bristol since the early 70s at least. I'm not personally aware of any activity prior to that, but I'm sure there was some.
You'll find that the quartzite is extremely compact and has very few, if any, continuous crack systems. The face climbing potential is certainly intriguing, but the smooth and relatively featureless nature of the rock leads me to think that entry-level will be 5.11 off vertical / steep slab climbing.
A friend and I also did a superb ice route there 2 years ago. It's not in often, but when it is, you can't miss the stiking thin ribbon of ice from Rt. 116. We did it as a single 45m pitch, but it could easily and logically be done as 2 short pitches as well. It catches a ton of sun, so it's rarely in, but when it is, it's a great line. I'd call it thin grade 4. Bring stubbies and a modest rock rack.
PM if you want to explore up there. I'd be interested.
In reply to:
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Nov 20, 2006, 2:30 PM)
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ncclimber
Nov 20, 2006, 2:57 PM
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thanks for the info I'm a NC aid climber visiting folks for thanksgiving week. Grew up in Lincoln and now have the experience to actually climb it. Not much into free climbing but Love hard aid.
Don't know if theirs time this trip but would like to make plans for the future.
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