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afreeclimber
Nov 14, 2006, 4:56 PM
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Is there a difference between fingerjams and fingerlocks? If so, what makes the two techniques different?
I've searched around and found no answers.
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tattooed_climber
Nov 14, 2006, 5:01 PM
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fingerjam is when you twist
fingerlock is a stack (aka ringlock)
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catbird_seat
Nov 14, 2006, 5:29 PM
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The finger lock usually involves a constriction point in the crack, whereas the finger jam does not require a constriction.
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xzeroenemyx
Nov 23, 2006, 1:48 PM
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Corect me if i'm wrong. but whenever i've done a fingerjam, im usually doing a layback at the same time. I think it would be hard to do a good finger jam otherwise.....but im not sure.
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xzeroenemyx
Nov 24, 2006, 12:36 AM
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i thought dropping your elbow was what made it a finger lock.....but like i said.....i wasn't positive on that. It's always good to learn correct terminology. cuz it doesn't matter what you can send if you sound like an idiot
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notch
Nov 24, 2006, 12:49 AM
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The reality is that there probably isn't any difference between a finger jam and a finger lock. Any finger jam is going to feel more secure if you can find a slight constriction to pull down on and make the jam more secure, but I don't think that changes the name of the move. My 7th edition of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills gives the following instruction when setting a finger jam. "Slip your fingers into the crack and twist your hand to lock your fingers in place. You get added strength by stacking fingers and also by pressing your thumb against your index finger in a ring jam." Regardless, (if I'm envisioning what you are doing correctly )what you're describing when you layback is not a jamming move, it's just yarding on the side of the crack.
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xzeroenemyx
Nov 24, 2006, 12:52 AM
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true even though i an "yarding" on the side of the crack, when i do laybacks, it's "usually" on smaller cracks, where my fingers are at the point where they are in a jam like state in the crack, which would be where i go confused
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j_ung
Nov 27, 2006, 4:29 PM
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I've been climbing since 1986 and this is the first time I've ever heard the term "fingerjam." I suspect it means exactly the same thing as fingerlock. Sounds like one of those terms that start off as a mistake, for example "knee drop," instead of the correct "drop knee."
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salamanizer
Nov 27, 2006, 9:10 PM
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First you jam your fingers in then you lock them down. The two are virtually the same thing. Its like saying; what's the difference between a dishwasher and your wife?
Now a fingerlock/jam and a ring lock (which I suspect you ment) are a bit different. You can do a fingerlock/jam palm up (index finger down) or palm down (pinkie down). But you can only do a ring lock palm up/index down. Wow, that's confusing. Look, if you do a move where your index and thumb come together like an OK sign, its a ring lock. Everything else is a hand jam or fingerlock or what ever you want to call it.
What are we, geologists? Do we have to classify everything. Who really cares?
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afreeclimber
Nov 30, 2006, 5:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
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Since the term "hand jam" can mean setting your hand into a constriction or twisting your hand or cupping your hand, then it would only make sense to apply the same rules to "finger jams".
It looks like you may be correct about the bastardization of the term "finger lock", since there is no corresponding "hand lock".
The term must be the result of confusion over the term "ring lock".
I'm glad I'm not the only one who's confused by all the climbing lingo.
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deschamps1000
Nov 30, 2006, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
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they are the same thing
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