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dripdry
Nov 14, 2006, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2005
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Hi,
I've done most of my outdoor climbing at Devil's Lake. I finally got the chance to climb at Red River Gorge a few weeks ago, and found that instead of 10a/b climber I thought I was, I found myself flying up an 11b.
Now I'm getting ready to surmount a winter trip, potentially to Tallulah Gorge which has a penchant for difficult lines. I don't want to go all the way down there from Chicago with my partner, only to realize that we can't hack it. COuld we do it?
I suppose that this is my overall question: Can someone give a relative sense of how the ratings stack up against each other (or against the hard quartzite glass skating of Devil's Lake, WI)? I'm sure this has been posted before, but I want to make sure that a long drive won't be in vain going down to Georgia.
Thanks
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tradrenn
Nov 15, 2006, 1:01 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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Where is Chossmonkey when you need him ? 
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redlegrangerone
Nov 15, 2006, 1:06 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2005
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I think he got sent to time out.
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sthcrag510
Nov 15, 2006, 3:28 AM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2006
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well if your going climbing Tallulah i'd defiantly climb primative paradox and punk wave is a must do. the gorge has some pretty stout routes. Oh yea digital delight is kinda chossy now. the crack at the beginning is full of crap. other than that the gorge is awesome. Make sure that when you go they aren't releasing water from the dam that weekend because they won't let anyone down into the gorge...
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musicman1586
Nov 15, 2006, 3:55 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
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I'm not trying to be rude man, but you should be able to have fun no matter what level your climbing, if you can't climb the "hard" climbs, then you can still enjoy yourself on the "easier" climbs. You should enjoy routes for being good routes, not for how their rated. Maybe I just don't know the area and your asking because everything down there is 11's and up or something, but that's a rare find, so if that is the case then what I have to say means nothing. But if it's a typical area with a mix of stuff, you should be able to enjoy yourself on 5.8's just as much as you would projecting a .12
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dripdry
Nov 15, 2006, 5:28 PM
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Unfortunately, most of Tallulah seems to be 10 and up range. Now, for some places I can muscle and flex my way up a ten, but not elegantly (or comfortabley) enough to trad it. Other places, like Red River, a 10 seems like child's play. Not trying to spray, just explaining the situation.
And yeah, I've been a little heavy on the numbers lately (reese7 can attest to that), although I admit that the RRG was some of the most fun climbing I've ever had, even though the routes were not as stout as I'm used to. I guess there's a certain balance between fun and hard that's optimal, but you're right, musicman. Having fun (and beer) no matter what the situation is key.
Always remember those two tried and true rules of climbing:
1) Have fun
2) Don't die
I guess we'll just see what the weather's gonna be like a couple days before we leave in late December, then pick a place and go, either Red Rocks or someplace like Tallulah. Oh, and any suggestions for winter climbing are welcome (though off topic)
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rro
Nov 20, 2006, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2006
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what trad lines did you get on at the red ? the overhanging sport here can feel easier if you have good endurance and a lot of the newer areas have softer "feel good" ratings. but the old school trad lines are anything but soft. did you get on the beenling, whats left of the beenling, jungle beat, marmalade, perforator, dicey at best, the quest and way too many more to list. the old school grades were based on seneca grades and pretty much everyone that travels to seneca gets a decent ass kicking and gets their ass kicked on the older routes here. the new trad routes being put up now are not that soft either. get on dreamthiever, crouching tiger, hidden dragon, not ice, sublimanl inovator or snot rocket and say the reds trad is soft.
now if all you got on was roadside, bonzo and autumn, rock wars you could think its soft. but even rockwars can be tricky for 10a.
the more i climb the more confused i get on grades. i think as long as the general area is the same with-in itself thats all you can ask for. myself, i would rather be known as a sandbagger than being soft. f-grades !
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dripdry
Dec 6, 2006, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2005
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I only got on stuff at the Great Wall and Hideout in Muir Valley. Next time I'm out there I should have a chance to bear down on some harder stuff, and maybe get some trad in. At the end of the day fark grades, I agree, but it sure felt good to think that I might be able to send a 12a all of a sudden!  More training and hard work to really get there, though.
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redpointron
Dec 6, 2006, 6:15 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2003
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dripdry wrote: I only got on stuff at the Great Wall and Hideout in Muir Valley. Next time I'm out there I should have a chance to bear down on some harder stuff, and maybe get some trad in. At the end of the day fark grades, I agree, but it sure felt good to think that I might be able to send a 12a all of a sudden! More training and hard work to really get there, though.
when it comes to numbers, the great wall is NOT indicative of how hard you may or may not be climbing.
yes, there is a big difference between the no friction climbing at devils lake and the sandstone of the red. but there is a big difference between onsighting something and top roping it. and and even bigger difference between clipping bolts at muir and placing gear at military.
you're right if you don't concern yourself too much with grades because, in most cases, 12a doesn't happen "all of a sudden". tell reece to bring you down sometime...when i am down.
and, no matter what else, don't listen to rro.  
regards.
r.r.
(This post was edited by redpointron on Dec 6, 2006, 6:18 PM)
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