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rock_fencer
Dec 18, 2006, 3:40 AM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752
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I was wondering if any body had any info for T-Wall climbs. Me and a buddy are heading down sometime around early january. Hes lead up to 5.11d but im just starting. Anyways any info on conditions, camping, and route suggestions would be great.
Thanks a bunch
T
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steelhands
Dec 18, 2006, 4:03 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2005
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It's a crap shoot with the odds slightly in favor for you. If it is sunny and dry, you're good to go even if it's pretty cold, T-Wall can be quite warm as it is south facing and perhaps gets reflected engery from the river surface. it can be tee shirt climbing in January.
If it's cold (below 40) and cloudy, wet and windy, don't bother.
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saxfiend
Dec 18, 2006, 12:32 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
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T-Wall is a winter crag, so if you going to be in the area for more than just a weekend, you're sure to have at least a day or two of decent weather for climbing. There's camping at the parking area near the start of the approach trail, including a pit toilet. Just be aware that car break-ins are fairly common, so plan accordingly.
It's hard to know what to suggest as far as routes, since you're apparently a beginner and your partner leads hard trad. I guess if he leads something you can't follow, he can always just clean it on rap.
Your partner may want to start on something moderate to get a feel for the T-Wall grades:
Golden Locks -- 5.8+
Puppy Ride -- 5.9
In Pursuit of Excellence -- 5.9
If he's ready to up the ante:
Finger Lockin' Good -- 5.10b/c
Infinite Pursuit -- 5.10c/d
Stone Wave -- 5.11a/b
Stuff you'll enjoy if you can't handle the 5.9 routes (or even if you can):
Prerequisite for Excellence -- 5.8
Plastic Toys -- 5.7
Nutrasweet -- 5.7
Have fun!
JL
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rock_fencer
Dec 18, 2006, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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thanks for the info guys. Whats with the car-break ins? I can follow up to 5.12's (what im working on with sport) so shouldnt be a huge problem. Any further ideas on where to go if it is wet. I live in SC so i know NC pretty well and have a guide book for it. But in TN im dumbfounded with the exception of Obed for bouldering.
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