Feb 10, 2007, 11:12 AM
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Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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1. Must be > 6 pitches 2. Doesn't have to be advanced rating 3. Doesn't have to be "pure" trad (ie mixed ice OK, aid OK, minimal bolts OK). 4. Immediate disqualification if you did the first ascent.
Give the name of the route Locale What you loved about it
Feb 10, 2007, 1:02 PM
Post #2 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Given that the site's membership lives overwhelmingly in the US, I'm going to guess that the winner will be North America. I know... I know... my intellect is stunning, is it not?
Zoo View Moore's Wall, NC, USA Wildly overhung and intimidating as hell from the ground, close inspection yields a sea of handle-bar jugs and textbook protection. It's only three pitches, but hey, it's my favorite.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 10, 2007, 1:05 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 1:40 PM
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Epinephrine in red rocks. 15 pitches 2,000 ft. 9 or 10 pitches of 5.9 and a couple of the sickest moves i've ever seen to get out of the chimneys. We did it right before thanksgiving when the days are a real short, It's just sustained 5.9 climbing for a long long time, when you finally top out it's amazing, one of the best sunsets I've ever seen.
(This post was edited by climbingaggie03 on Feb 10, 2007, 1:50 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 3:17 PM
Post #7 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Two of these routes aren't over 6 pitches- my top three are 1) Zoo View- Moore's Wall, NC as mentioned above 2) Fantastic- Stone Mountain - 4 pitches beginning with Yosemite-like crack and face climbing to run out friction climbing 3) Tunnel Vision- Red Rocks, NV - having to put on a headlamp to climb through a vertical cave five pitches up was a wild experience
Feb 10, 2007, 3:51 PM
Post #8 of 44
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Re: [euphoriagtrst] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Moby Grape - Cannon Cliff, NH with the Reppy's Crack start and the Kurt's Corner finish.
5.8, 9 pitches, a spectacular setting, almost no fixed pro, a great variety of climbing throughout the route (jamcrack, slab, face, squeeze chimney (or hand traverse), layback), fun moves on every pitch, and some of the coolest features you've ever climbed on (the triangle roof, the sickle, the fickle finger of fate, etc.).
Just pay no attention to the afternoon thunderstorms and swarms of black flies.
(This post was edited by stickyfingerz on Feb 14, 2007, 4:35 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 4:55 PM
Post #9 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Salbitschijen, SW Ridge, Urner Alps in central Switzerland. Best granite possible, with the usual necessary ingrendients -- hard (for me) 5.9, length, route finding, pinnacles and towers galore, spectacular setting, not too well known so crowds only on wknds, and a summit needle that proves Mother Nature has a sense of humor.
Feb 10, 2007, 5:35 PM
Post #10 of 44
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Re: [tetons] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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In my short career - Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap, CA. Only three pitches, but one of the steepest 5.7s around. When you make the traverse out onto the arete on the second pitch, you suddenly have about 300 feet of air between your legs, and it stays exposed like that almost all the way to the top.
Feb 10, 2007, 7:17 PM
Post #12 of 44
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Re: [rcnc21] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I don't know how many pitches it is ('cause I've only soloed it), but Braille Book in yosemite stands out in my memory as the best all natural route I have ever done. And when soloing, the speed and freedom combined with the view and actual route quality made it unforgettable.
Feb 10, 2007, 11:59 PM
Post #13 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon in Sedona. Sick climbing, sick location. 5.10. It's a long haul out there with steep bushwacking. But when you get out there, it's really solitary (pretty rare for Sedona area). The 5.10 off-width section is protected by a bolt -- but it's a little unneccessary in my humble opinion. This baby goes up a 1000' spire in 6-8 pitches. The spire's base is probably close to 1/8 mile in diameter at the base with a 12' wide summit! It really is a must-do for desert/spire climbing afficianados.
Feb 13, 2007, 6:11 PM
Post #15 of 44
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Re: [rico511] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I have two, both in Yosemite:
The N Face of the Rostrum (5.11c) - This climb ascends some of the best cracks I've seen anywhere. It slowly arches from slabby to overhung so you can see the whole route the entire time you're on it. Even the offwidth was fun. It was sustained and perfect. I can't imagine it gets any better.
Astroman (5.11c) - Sustained is an understatement. This climb has history, unique pitches (who can forget the Harding Slot or the Enduro Corner?) and a hell of a last pitch to keep you on your toes even though you're tired.
I love good granite cracks, and these two routes have some of the best.
Feb 13, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #19 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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The best routes for me. 1. Royal Arches - Yosemite, CA USA 1. Diedre - Squamish, BC, Canada. 2. Grand Wall - Squamish, BC, Canada 4. Sons of Yesterday / Serenity Crack - Yosemite, CA
Yes, there seems to be a bit of favoritism towards granite.
Feb 13, 2007, 7:25 PM
Post #21 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I can't name one so I will name a few that come to mind...
The Nose, Looking Glass Direct East Face, 1st Flatiron Original Route (Traditions finish), Whitesides Fathom, Laurel Knob Central Pillar of Frenzy, Yosemite Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill, Palisades...
Feb 13, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #22 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Epinepherine is up there, top 3 for sure. The top half is so cruiser, pitch after pitch. just simply enjoyable climbing.
Cloud Tower, 7 pitches, also in red rocks, 5.11d, crack overdose, is amazing. the last pitch (without the extension) after tunnelling thru a chimney to a spacious ledge, you are rewarded with an incredible 5.11+ Indian Creek-style sandstone handcrack in a corner. Just unreal.
Mithral Diherdral, 5.10 on Mt. Russell, high sierra, CA. Flawless sierra granite, alpine setting, 250 foot section of handjamming heaven.
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