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Carnage
Mar 29, 2007, 3:03 AM
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Just getting into sport climbing. I been climbing in a gym for a while and im now taking a class on anchor construction. Been outside a few times and realized that especially for the places around here, i definitely need the gear to do sport routes.
Right now i have a harness, belay plate, shoes and 2 locking 'biners (1 hms). Im looking to be able to go out on weekends, lead a sport climb, set up anchor at the top for the follow. Heres a list of the gear that i think i'll need:
5 ~8" quickdraws, wiregates
5 ~5" quickdraws, wiregates
1 60m, 10.0-10.5 mm dynamic rope
1 helmet
3 locking carabiners
2 prussik cords
1 cordelette (~6' long)
2 Tied slings (~3')
2 sewn slings (~2')
Im guessing on some of the sizes. Also, cordelette = accessory cord right?
Pls let me know any suggestions, pls tell me what i need and what i should use it for.
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elnero
Mar 29, 2007, 3:07 AM
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For an anchor, you can just use two draws clipped to the anchors at the top, save you from having to buy the webbing and cordolette and such.
Sport climbing, at least where I am, all you need is enough draws for the bolts, 2 for the anchor, and one or two in case you drop some. And a rope, harness, etc.. No need for webbing and such. Though, if ya want, go for it.
and yes, cordolette is a loop of cord, generally 7mm, sometimes the fancy 5.5 mm spectra stuff.
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overlord
Mar 29, 2007, 12:54 PM
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you forgot a belay device. i suggest a tube-style device like the atc.
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coastal_climber
Mar 29, 2007, 5:09 PM
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That's a pretty excessive list for sport climbing.
I take: 12 draws, 1 daisy chain, 2 sewn 30cm slings, 2 lockers, and 2 ovals.
Harness, ATC, Shoes, Helmet, the usual.
>Cam
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bent_gate
Mar 29, 2007, 6:20 PM
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The two prussik cords are good to have in case of an emergency and you have to escape the belay to get help. In a majority of cases you would just lower the climber to the ground, but if they are unconscious on a ledge, or if you are up more than one pitch, you would very likely need to escape the belay.
If you don't know how to do this already, there is little need for the two prussiks because you won't be able to use them anyway. You may decide that you want to use one as a autoblock backup for when you rapel off some of the climbs, but again that is your individual choice. Some sport climbers never even rap off of their climbs and when they do, rarely use a backup.
Probably 95% of people start sport without prussik cords. And of them few even bother to learn the use of them later on. So it's really just a matter of determining how proficient of a climber you want to be.
But I wouldn't get them if you don't plan to learn how to use them. Happy shopping!
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Carnage
Mar 30, 2007, 4:52 PM
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ive taken a class and learned a bunch of neat tricks to use prussiks and stuff for. i agree most of the time i wont use them, but the rope only costs like $.40 /foot so i figure its worth spending $4 on them
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coastal_climber
Mar 30, 2007, 5:38 PM
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Of course its good to have, but if you want to know the bare minimum then you don't realy need it at the local crags. Its up to you how much gear you want to be carrying around.
>Cam
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divnamite
Mar 30, 2007, 7:21 PM
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I'm new to sports climbing. I'm not sure why you need cordelette other than building anchors, but if you are going to build anchors, I would probably get a longer one, something in the range between 18' - 25'.
(This post was edited by divnamite on Mar 30, 2007, 7:23 PM)
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shimanilami
Mar 30, 2007, 8:04 PM
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At the risk of getting blasted ...
GRI-GRI !!!
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g_i_g_i
Mar 30, 2007, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: I take: 12 draws, 1 daisy chain, 2 sewn 30cm slings, 2 lockers, and 2 ovals.
Out of curiosity, what's the daisy chain for?
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dynamo_
Mar 30, 2007, 8:39 PM
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Carnage wrote: Just getting into sport climbing. I been climbing in a gym for a while and im now taking a class on anchor construction. Been outside a few times and realized that especially for the places around here, i definitely need the gear to do sport routes. Right now i have a harness, belay plate, shoes and 2 locking 'biners (1 hms). Im looking to be able to go out on weekends, lead a sport climb, set up anchor at the top for the follow. Heres a list of the gear that i think i'll need: ...... Pls let me know any suggestions, pls tell me what i need and what i should use it for.
ATTENTION!!! Forget all these other suggestions! Here is what you really need to be an Class A, real deal, crimper pullin' sport climber:
First, the gear...
- 12 shiny new Petzl Spirit draws
- skinny, 60M, flourescent rope of your choice...so long as it matches the colors on the Spirit dog bones.
- A rope bag with tarp (also coordinated) ... can't get the rope dirty.
- A GriGri (duh, what self respecting sport climber uses a tube device?)
-Mammut Mana harness, because light is right.
- a file for those burrs on your dedicated bolt end biner.
More importantly, the clothes and accessories:
-La Sportiva Testarossas - three sizes too small
-Prana manpris (cinch them in at half calf, so you can see all that fancy foot work)
-Prana Polo (pop the collar - pink in color is preferred)
-Prana chalkbag with a toothbrush holder...oh wait, that's another forum...yeah, chalkbag clipped to your haul loop with an accessory biner
Now get out there, grid bolt, drink those Red Bulls, and hangdog those 5.12s!
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bent_gate
Mar 30, 2007, 8:55 PM
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Trophy! 
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unrooted
Mar 30, 2007, 9:30 PM
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"dynamo wrote: -Prana Polo (pop the collar - pink in color is preferred) quote] Where'd you finda pink prana polo, I've been looking for two years! I also need a turquoise one for under the pink, but I guess I could wear any brand on the inside as long as everyone knows that I'm wearing the prana on the outside, so let me in on you find!!!
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psprings
Mar 30, 2007, 10:45 PM
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When I first started Top Roping I started with 2 double length slings (the longest sewn slings they sell at the store) and 4 non-locking ovals.
I still carry these two when I'm sport climbing [which tends to be rare], tripled two times [which makes it, what, sextupled?] so is the same length as a regular tripled "trad draw". Yes, you can't extend it like you can with a normal tripled trad draw, but since my second usually Top Ropes, I like it because:
1. I like using designated biners with large radii? radiuses?
2. I find that there are plenty of times that I need really long runners to have the top anchors not have major friction on the rock, which saves my rope from those gnasty! edges/friction.
Essential? Probably not.
Save your rope? Definately, on those climbs with the anchors a ways back and your second is TRing, not leading it after you.
Peter
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amikros
Mar 30, 2007, 11:09 PM
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what the hell is prana?
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carabiner96
Mar 30, 2007, 11:19 PM
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amikros wrote: what the hell is prana?
Please....
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Carnage
Mar 31, 2007, 5:01 AM
Post #17 of 21
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
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cordelette is for building anchor at the top. I dunno what your thinking of as a cordelette, but what ive been shown/told is that its a ~20ft section of 7mm accessory chord tied in a loop. The main reason i plan to carry this is that its really easy to equalize anchors using one of these. along with the sling and some 'biners, i should be able to build an anchor on almost anything 
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divnamite
Mar 31, 2007, 7:42 PM
Post #18 of 21
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Registered: Feb 20, 2007
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Yes, 20' makes sense, I saw your post of 6', which is very short for anchor building.
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aerodrift
Apr 1, 2007, 1:58 AM
Post #19 of 21
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
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dynamo_ wrote: ATTENTION!!! Forget all these other suggestions! Here is what you really need to be an Class A, real deal, crimper pullin' sport climber: First, the gear... - 12 shiny new Petzl Spirit draws - skinny, 60M, flourescent rope of your choice...so long as it matches the colors on the Spirit dog bones. - A rope bag with tarp (also coordinated) ... can't get the rope dirty. - A GriGri (duh, what self respecting sport climber uses a tube device?) -Mammut Mana harness, because light is right. - a file for those burrs on your dedicated bolt end biner. More importantly, the clothes and accessories: -La Sportiva Testarossas - three sizes too small -Prana manpris (cinch them in at half calf, so you can see all that fancy foot work) -Prana Polo (pop the collar - pink in color is preferred) -Prana chalkbag with a toothbrush holder...oh wait, that's another forum...yeah, chalkbag clipped to your haul loop with an accessory biner Now get out there, grid bolt, drink those Red Bulls, and hangdog those 5.12s!
lisxten to tis man - he speaketh the truth though id add some diapers to the mix
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dynamo_
Apr 2, 2007, 3:42 PM
Post #20 of 21
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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unrooted wrote: "dynamo wrote: -Prana Polo (pop the collar - pink in color is preferred) Where'd you finda pink prana polo, I've been looking for two years! I also need a turquoise one for under the pink, but I guess I could wear any brand on the inside as long as everyone knows that I'm wearing the prana on the outside, so let me in on you find!!!
I wouldn't know...but dont forget the extra long stick clip...because we wouldn't want to deck from 15' and mess up our snazzy, snazzy Prana gear.
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