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elnero
Apr 4, 2007, 4:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2006
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i know, i know, another daisy chain. So go ahead and say "search", or "use your PAS/sling/rope" and all that..
I just couldn't find an answer to this question:
In order to help with the clipping between bar tacks situation when clipping the end loop and a pocket, what do you think about putting a twist in the end loop, like you would when making a sliding x? It seems to be like this would keep the biner secured in the end loop. Haven't had a chance to play with it though, might rig up a sling and tape number like in the black diamond video..
any thoughts?
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chh
Apr 4, 2007, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2005
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sigh........
Let me summarize.
Daisys are for aid.
Clove hitch the ends if you must use them.
Read a book or get someone to show you.
STFU nOOb!
Seriously though, people get hurt because they can't be bothered to do something as simple as READ or THINK.
And if this is a troll, it's awful. At least include something about climbing 5.13 in the gym the first year or only being able to date a climber or something. Seriously. No effort. Whatsoever.
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elnero
Apr 4, 2007, 5:15 PM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: Mar 1, 2006
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Actually, I have read, and I have thought, and I was going to rig the little tape experiment to see if it would work. This was actually supposed to be a discussion and not 'bash the n00b'. No I'm not a troll, it was an honest question about an idea I had. I'll be sure to post those elsewhere for now on.
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robreglinski
Apr 4, 2007, 5:27 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 129
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why dont you just not use a daisy chain and learn to make belays with the ropes. or if you must, slings.
why is it that American climber seem to see the need in having every bit of kit under the sun when a nice clove from you tie in to the belay works wonders.
seriously guys stop spending money on gear and start using it to go climbing more.........
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sweetchuck
Apr 4, 2007, 5:32 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 151
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Have you considered a PAS?
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dingus
Apr 4, 2007, 5:40 PM
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robreglinski wrote: why dont you just not use a daisy chain and learn to make belays with the ropes. or if you must, slings. why is it that American climber seem to see the need in having every bit of kit under the sun when a nice clove from you tie in to the belay works wonders. seriously guys stop spending money on gear and start using it to go climbing more.........
Back in the day simplicity and multi-use tools were standard practice. Our older Freedom of the Hills manuals, or better, Robbins Rockcraft series, illustrate this idea well. Those of us who learned in those days, or learned from those who did, our very first introductions to the sport were lean and mean, from the git go; as few biners, a few slings, some nuts, a pin or two, and viola, lets go climbing!
The rise of gyms and the professional climbing literature industry changed all that. Folks are exposed to explicit methods like the cordelette. These tools are presented as The Way.
Fact is? A lot of us Merkin climbers don't know any different, its that simple.
And of course folks like me often use our tools as courage replacements, haha. I have to use a LOT of gear to make up THAT GAP.
Cheers
DMT
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sweetchuck
Apr 4, 2007, 7:13 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
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Shorter DMT:
Just use slings or your rope (or that shank of hemp you have been carrying around for decades).
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herbaltee
Apr 4, 2007, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2006
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Yeah I'm with the other guys. Use the rope as your primary and the daisy chain as your backup. Its static and should be a backup anyways.
If you are sport climbing just use two 12in slings (or whatever fits your arm length) and learn how to hang on a belay or clean.
As for the original question, watch the video again, they answer your question about the twist. They say don't do it, use two carabineers. Its 2/3 into the vid.
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rocknice2
Apr 4, 2007, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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The way to use a daisy. Put a locker in the top loop, clip pro and lock it . Now take an ordinary biner and clip a sub-loop. Clip this to 1: another sub-loop, 2: the locking biner, or 3: another pro.
This way you will never fall into the situation shown in the BD video. Plus your always clipped in even when making lenght adjustments.
Take it from an aid climber
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elnero
Apr 4, 2007, 9:22 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Mar 1, 2006
Posts: 191
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herbaltee wrote: Yeah I'm with the other guys. Use the rope as your primary and the daisy chain as your backup. Its static and should be a backup anyways. If you are sport climbing just use two 12in slings (or whatever fits your arm length) and learn how to hang on a belay or clean. As for the original question, watch the video again, they answer your question about the twist. They say don't do it, use two carabineers. Its 2/3 into the vid.
to clarify, i *always* use the rope to anchor, i was just going to use a daisy to clip to the bolt/anchor, whatever before i get the rest set up, as its easier for me to clip first, then tie a knot. Secondly, I think the twist in the BD video is different than what I was thinking. If you take just the last loop, and put a twist in it, so the last loop looks like the twist in a sliding x, and clip there. i think thats different than what black diamond shows. either way, this post has turned into why not to use a daisy.... so, nevermind.
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caughtinside
Apr 4, 2007, 11:11 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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dingus wrote: And of course folks like me often use our tools as courage replacements, haha. I have to use a LOT of gear to make up THAT GAP.
booyeah!
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