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MaxDWolf
Apr 6, 2007, 9:17 PM
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I caught the bug in January (ok, I caught it when I was 7 and just now got off my lazy butt and did something about it), and have been indoor climbing and taking basic courses at Sportrock in Alex. VA. So far the level of instruction seems good, but then how would I know? One thing so far is it does seem they short shrift on the finer points of belaying. About 20 minutes in the basics course and the certification takes about 5. Neither Sportrock here nor Earthtreks seems to offer a dedicated belaying course. I'm hoping that more will be covered in the outdoors courses.
So two questions. Any suggestions on learning the finer points of belaying? Any opinions by the more experience here who live in the area on Sportrock or Earthtreks?
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coastal_climber
Apr 7, 2007, 1:07 AM
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What exactly do you want to learn? If you practice you will get better.
>Cam
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climbsomething
Apr 7, 2007, 1:21 AM
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It's true, most gyms spend very little time really drilling belaying. I don't think it's isolated to your gym. They usually just teach you enough to not drop your buddy, watch as you catch the buddy without letting him crater, sign you off, and on you go. Most beginners, unlike yourself, don't seem to even get that they hardly know anything, and how could they? This can get the old guard pretty cranky.
I've never taken an outdoor course and I imagine they vary, but they SHOULD go more in depth. If not... ask. I'd like to think that outdoors guides/instructors are held to a higher standard than gym workers and would be able, willing and glad to work with you.
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j_ung
Apr 7, 2007, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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MaxDWolf wrote: I caught the bug in January (ok, I caught it when I was 7 and just now got off my lazy butt and did something about it), and have been indoor climbing and taking basic courses at Sportrock in Alex. VA. So far the level of instruction seems good, but then how would I know? One thing so far is it does seem they short shrift on the finer points of belaying. About 20 minutes in the basics course and the certification takes about 5. Neither Sportrock here nor Earthtreks seems to offer a dedicated belaying course. I'm hoping that more will be covered in the outdoors courses. So two questions. Any suggestions on learning the finer points of belaying? Any opinions by the more experience here who live in the area on Sportrock or Earthtreks?
Question: did you elect to take a class, or was this a mandatory orientation on pre-rigged belay systems?
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girl_lostInVA
Apr 7, 2007, 2:08 AM
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MaxDWolf wrote: I caught the bug in January (ok, I caught it when I was 7 and just now got off my lazy butt and did something about it), and have been indoor climbing and taking basic courses at Sportrock in Alex. VA. So far the level of instruction seems good, but then how would I know? One thing so far is it does seem they short shrift on the finer points of belaying. About 20 minutes in the basics course and the certification takes about 5. Neither Sportrock here nor Earthtreks seems to offer a dedicated belaying course. I'm hoping that more will be covered in the outdoors courses. So two questions. Any suggestions on learning the finer points of belaying? Any opinions by the more experience here who live in the area on Sportrock or Earthtreks?
I took the Basic Skills and Intro climbing class at Sportrock and FF1 and yeah they really just blow past belaying so fast...
What really helped me learn to be better at belaying was working with some people, and for me it helps that I'm belaying people that out weigh me...that really helps build my confidence actually
I've also actually worked in groups of 3 or so many times and asked someone to watch me belay and tell me what I can do better... and that helped too
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musicman
Apr 7, 2007, 5:33 AM
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here's the thing aboutb belaying, its pretty fucking easy to do. but....its pretty fucking hard to give a good (lead) belay. as long as you're belaying safely, the smoothness and all that greatness just comes with experience. Some climbs require a really really REALLY good belay to keep the leader out of harms way, but most of the time, like i said, catching a fall is easy, but doing a good job is a whole different side of the spectrum.
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asuclimber
Apr 7, 2007, 8:36 AM
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"taking basic courses at Sportrock in Alex. VA"
I've been to that gym, and was shocked(wait, not shocked...just disgusted) by the lack of good belaying instruction/belay practices of the customers/ and near complete lack of supervision by the staff.
You're best bet is to continue on the path you are on of questioning everything you see and do. Read everything you can on belaying, and understand the pro's/con's as well as reasons behind the use of different belay techniques. Whatever you do, don't assume you belay perfectly safely just because they passed you on your test.
There is a ton of information here( do a search), and lost of other info out there too (tradgirl.com, planetfear.com). Good books to start with would be freedom of the hills, or one of the John Long series.
And most importantly, try and buddy up with climbers who are both logical/aware and more experienced than you. You will learn more from a good partnere than you will ever learn in classes taught at a gym.
Good luck.
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c-money
Apr 7, 2007, 8:42 AM
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I would agree that if you have the basics down, experience is going to be the best teacher for you. Belaying really isn't that complicated, and with practice and experience you will become much more comfortable with it.
A 20 minute belay course is pretty quick, but unfortunately common in many gyms. Did they just cut you loose after 20 minutes, or was there supervision and feedback on what you were doing afterwards?
20 minutes of instruction followed by say 40 minutes to an hour of supervised practice could provide a pretty good base to go from.
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sinrtb
Apr 9, 2007, 8:09 AM
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Wow im shocked to hear that the belay course could be so short! I just got belay certified at my gym it was a 4 hour course covering everything from tying in to knot tying (neither of which is done at the gym). This was a course specifically designed to certify you to belay your partner at that gym.
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bent_gate
Apr 9, 2007, 4:11 PM
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Sportrock allows students to re-take/repeat their classes for no charge. If you don't feel you got everything out of it that you wanted, consider taking it again. It might give you a chance to ask more specific questions on the subject as well.
Don't drop anyone! 
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billcoe_
Apr 10, 2007, 3:21 AM
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Max, you rule dude. !
No joke.
So many people just blow it right off, and think that the numbers of the moves is what it's about. It's not:
1st) it's about safety. You've figured this out.
2nd) It's about fun: this follows safety.
3rd) Its about performance which follows the first 2.
Some people have to learn the hard way. I typically don't tie in with people climbing less than 2 full years (or more). Can't say how long you've really been at it, but even if it's been 10 min I'd tie in with you dude.
It's about attitute and you have it.
To me, you just asking the question means that you are further along than most climbers out there. Theres been some great suggestions above, another one is just being honest with folks you tie in with. Experinced climbers will give you their time, experince, heart and soul if you lay the truth on em, cause it means something. It's important to them that you aren't bullshiting or trying to get by, and that you know whats important.
#1 on the importance list is Safety. Through knowledge comes safety and everything else like skill and fun follows. Desire to get damn good at this skill, THE very most important skill in our game, will get you there. You'll figure that part out. The part I want to warn you about is to watch others who do not have your brains and drive.
Good on ya Max.
High Regards:
Bill
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c-money
Apr 10, 2007, 5:06 AM
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I think an hour would be a bare minimum for an experienced instructor to cover everthing well, but certainly not ideal. Probably two to three hours is ideal, covering everything from knots and harnesses to top-rope belaying and basic movement techniques.
Four hours seems like long time to me, but I am sure you got your money's worth.
A lot of smaller gyms do a quick 10-minute lesson which leaves a lot to be desired...
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svilnit
Apr 10, 2007, 1:27 PM
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I've never been to SportRock, however, I do go to Earthtreks. The beginners toprope course does cover belaying, albeit not in depth. Their Intro to Lead goes over belaying extensively.
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alwaysclimbing07
Apr 10, 2007, 2:09 PM
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Climb at earth treks. its an amazing gym
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