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coolcat83
Apr 25, 2007, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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ok so I was playing with emergncy ascending yesterday. the way i had it i had a tibloc attatched as my top ascender attatched to my foot loop and the atc in autoblock attatched to my belay loop. my question is if the way i switched to rappel was safe. what i did was stand up on the tibloc and then the rope in the atc had no tension, i then clipped the biner that the rope goes around (the belay biner) into my belay loop and then unclipped the biner that was attatched to the hole used when in autoblock mode. then i pulled out as much slack as possible then wrapped the rope around my foot and used a clove and stood in it to tension the brake strand, then i stood up and undid the tiblock, then i held the brake strand while releasing my foot then i rapped. i know that i could add a friction knot to the brake strand to back up my foot. but i was assuming i only have the emergency tibloc and atc. i'm jut a little leery of having only my foot securing the brake strand when i take the tibloc off. i was thinking of tying offthe atc with a mule or something but then stading up to release the tiboc could be problematic.
sorry for the long post, i can try to take some pictures if you need, thanks
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notch
Apr 25, 2007, 3:03 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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If I'm understanding what you did correctly, I think I would have put a prussik on the rope either above or below the tibloc so that my redundancy was maintained while I was resetting the ATC.
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j_ung
Apr 25, 2007, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Seems like it went pretty quickly and smoothly for you. The only thing that worries me is the small amount of time when you unhook the first biner and stand to unweight the Tibloc. At that point, all your back-ups are attached to your feet   . There's a better, albeit more time-consuming load transfer method, but rather than get into all that, I think you'll be fine if you just tie in short to protect against the worst case.
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chh
Apr 25, 2007, 3:31 PM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2005
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The changeover sounds ok for quick and dirty as long as the ATC was always secured with a locker during the transfer but there are better (less strenuous) ways. Did you have a harness attachment going to the tibloc as well or just a footloop hanging off it? Your foot wrap thing doesn't sound so good though. Your tibloc should have been in reach the whole time so you shouldn't have had to step anywhere. Provided you make a safe transfer from autoblock to rappel mode, get your ATC close to your tibloc by stepping in the footloop already attached to the tibloc. Mule off your ATC and weight it. Reach up and undo the tibloc and mule and down you go.
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coolcat83
Apr 25, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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i'll try to post some pictures, i attatch the system like a frog system and have a small sling from the upper tibloc to my harness so it's clipped in when i unweight the atc i can clip in the belay biner then clip out the biner in the autoblock hole so i'm never fully detatched from the atc, i realize that if the tibloc blew the atc with both biners in might not work so well but i feel like it is preferable. it seems that eithe the blay biner would catch or the autoblocking biner would so that it would be sort of backed up. in terms if the whole foot wrap thing i was going to emergency procedure, and yes i know take my time but sometimes it's not that simple, my onlly thing wih the mule is it stil doesn't eliminate the unclipping atc or sequentially swapping biners. i did try rigging it all up only using the clibing rope it's self...that was fun but definatly not something i'm going to do in the field. i always have two tiblocs and some webbing/slings in me even top rope...you never know.
p.s. i do know all the fancy knot passing and rigging stuff, i just was thinking for those times when lightening might strike a bit close, i'm not sure i want to start fiddling in the rain with weighting unweighting ect i want down!... basically i manage to have two locked off devices on the rope when ascending then i have the atc with a rap bakup before i take the tibloc off the safety system.
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