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socalbolter
May 16, 2007, 4:04 PM
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OK, so I've done a bunch of shaping for many different companies and have a lot of feature-sized shapes in production.
I have been approached by a brand new company to do some big holds for their new line. Figured I'd ask the community here and see what type of things you'd like to see in this size range that you haven't seen before.
This particular company is going to try to make a name for themselves as being the company to go to for big stuff and as such, I'd like to do some shapes that really set them apart.
So what do you think?
Ideas?
Thanks!
- Louie
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sk8erdude
May 16, 2007, 11:01 PM
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well a while back in an Urbanclimber mag they covered this rockclimbing gym thingy in an old car tunnel and on the roof it had big natural looking pointy stalactites. they were realy sick. i looked all over the net for stalactites but i found nothing like real looking stalactites so u could be the first to make big stalactites igeuss 
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socalbolter
May 16, 2007, 11:22 PM
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I've tried to get companies to let me do this in the past and they have always been concerned about the leverage forces created with this type of a shape.
I've already contacted these guys about doing something along those lines though and they're into it, so there will be at least one stalactite shape.
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chalkfree
May 16, 2007, 11:30 PM
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Stalactites would be extremely nice. Pointy ones like in the movies, not the sort you really see in caves.
Also some monster tuffas would be sweet, like three bolts worth, (stationary in the middle and sliding at the ends) 10ft or more.
Personally I love mondo features, but sometimes there's just a huge hold that's really just a little hold wiht a bunch of bulk added to it, I'd say to make better mondos go longer rather than blobier.
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camerona91
May 16, 2007, 11:46 PM
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What about some nice cracks? Very obvious but not many people seem to do it. Just a long thing vertical hold with a constricting finger crack in it. Maybe hands and fists too. A little upward slanting undercling crack could be cool. There are lots of those in the basalt here.
If you want to go really big you could make offwidth and chimney holds.
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silascl
May 16, 2007, 11:47 PM
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Maybe something that simulates an offwidth, or something you can kneebar? That would be different.
I don't get huge holds like this:
http://www.cheapholds.com/...;Category_Code=CHXWF
You could just as easily set up two or three smaller holds that accomplish the same thing. The only interesting thing is feeling around for the good spot on it.
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musicman1586
May 17, 2007, 12:01 AM
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Yeah, some real natural like tufas would be awesome, kinda like Metolius's little rail thing, but better, no so smooth, more like real limestone. depending how big your talking maybe something that creates a bulge like spans a couple bolts across, and then you can add other holds to it. Nicros has made something like this, but there's still kinda sits close to the wall, I want something that effectively makes like a small roof kinda. Or maybe something that just bulges out far and then has a sloper top, something really nasty like that. I dunno, I'll get to thinking some, cracks would be kewl, they'd be big and deep, but kewl nevertheless.
(This post was edited by musicman1586 on May 17, 2007, 12:17 AM)
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chalkfree
May 17, 2007, 3:52 PM
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one other thought, macro holds tend to be hollow to reduce weight, but they need some plastic around where the bolt goes, like a sleeve for the bolt, at least a couple inches in diameter. Otherwise it starts to pull t-nuts through the wall when it's tightened.
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chalkfree
May 17, 2007, 3:55 PM
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Another other thought, for tuffa/rails, try to make a macro tuffa that could be put on a 45 and climbed at the v5/6/7 level. Most of the big rails on the market aren't really that positive.
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