|
m2j1s
May 19, 2007, 6:18 PM
Post #1 of 10
(608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 77
|
So I currently have a full rack of aliens, but seeing as how these are no longer as trustworthy as they used to be, I'm curious as to what other people recomend for free climbing (not aid) smaller cams. How do cams with 3 lobes feel vs. 4 lobes? I've never climbed with tcu's, and always thought that 4cu's are better, but whats the opinion? the new wild country zeros or bd c3s or metolius?? just curious what I should replace the aliens with..
|
|
|
|
|
Dillbag
May 19, 2007, 6:39 PM
Post #2 of 10
(600 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 9, 2007
Posts: 93
|
Not sure what to recommend to you...
But if you (or anyone else) is looking to offload their aliens...
Send me a PM with sizes/dates and I'll make you an offer!
(I'll pay shipping!)
-Dillbag
|
|
|
|
|
vtrescuekid
May 20, 2007, 4:00 PM
Post #3 of 10
(529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 166
|
I think BD's or TCU's are the way to go. BD's are a little better in my opinion, but not so much better that they're worth paying more for than the TCU's. If money is no object go w/ what feels better, if you wanna save a little money go w/ the TCU's.
|
|
|
|
|
medicus
May 20, 2007, 5:53 PM
Post #4 of 10
(505 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 727
|
I have a few smaller 4cu's and I have 1-4 in 3cu's. I have found placements where the 4cu would not work but the 3cu would work. I have also found spots where a 3cu would just not work but a green alien would slot perfectly. It's all just a placement to placement basis... at least in my experience. There always seems to be somewhere that the C3's will fit that nothing else will really work, Aliens will fit where nothing else will really work, and so on.
|
|
|
|
|
tallmark515
May 21, 2007, 12:39 AM
Post #5 of 10
(430 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2006
Posts: 281
|
I don't like the dual stem design of any Metolius cam, I also just don't like how they feel, especially the TCU's.
I've used the WC Zeros a few times and next to the Aliens (whic I will no longer buy or use) they seem to feel the best, plus they are still able to pull off the smaller sizes even with the 4 cam design.
I've never placed a c3, but they feel bomber at the store, they have the smallest heads on the market, but they are VERY stiff, not only the stems but also the triggers.
|
|
|
|
|
josephgdawson
May 21, 2007, 1:11 AM
Post #6 of 10
(411 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 20, 2004
Posts: 303
|
I too have a bunch of Aliens that I no longer trust. Previously I had BD C4s down to the 0.5 (Purple) and nothing smaller because I do not think the smaller C4s place all that well in those tricky spots. After the latest Aliengate I couldn't take it no more and I picked up a yellow C3 and and a 0.4 C4 to figure out if they are viable replacments. I am going to take the C3 out and test drive it some to see if I like it before I get more of them. I will report back on what I think of the C3s.
I am curious what happens to the C3s when you fall on them while they are placed in a way that they cannot bend. Say you place one in a vertical crack and the only good placement you get is such that the C3 is sticking out a 90 degree angle. If you fall on that it is going to be on the axis that does not like to bend. Something has to give, I wonder what will give and how.
I hate to give up my Aliens. Does anyone know of a third party shop that will pull test them?
(This post was edited by josephgdawson on May 21, 2007, 1:26 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
medicus
May 21, 2007, 1:38 AM
Post #7 of 10
(396 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 727
|
no, but a lot of people have asked this... I don't know if anyone has given an answer. If you find someone let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
May 21, 2007, 2:07 AM
Post #8 of 10
(378 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I've used most all of the major brands. If CCH could get their shit together, I'd still go with them. After that Metolius's TCUs, then WC Zeros (which I own, I decided to be the guinea pig to supplement the rack), then C3s. I'm biased against the C3s because its mostly hype and high price to back up an idea that's been done for decades. There's a few things about them that I like. But mostly I don't think they're worth the price.
|
|
|
|
|
theirishman
May 21, 2007, 2:12 AM
Post #9 of 10
(367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 169
|
CCH is good if they worked, but i love the Metolious TCU's till orange then i get red through grey in WC longstem zeroes, you can just get those suckers SOOOOOO deep, but ya just my 2 cents
|
|
|
|
|
tallmark515
May 21, 2007, 4:38 AM
Post #10 of 10
(315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2006
Posts: 281
|
The .3 C4 is bomber, I love that piece and it has quickly become one of my most used pieces. Can't say the same for the .4, I haven't run into many cracks that won't take a .3 or .5 instead. For everything else I use nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
