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tylerphillips
Sep 29, 2002, 5:01 PM
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k9rocko
Sep 30, 2002, 12:07 AM
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I think we need a sign.. If you are too stupid to rap from this tree.... you don't deserve a drill
Gabe
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micronut
Sep 30, 2002, 12:35 AM
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There has been a lot of talk of bolt "chopping" lately. I always thought pulling them out, filling the hole with glue and sprinkling rock dust on it was prefered to simply chopping it off flush,(or not so flush), with the rock.
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k9rocko
Sep 30, 2002, 4:50 PM
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Quote:There has been a lot of talk of bolt "chopping" lately. I always thought pulling them out, filling the hole with glue and sprinkling rock dust on it was prefered to simply chopping it off flush,(or not so flush), with the rock.
I am sure that is what Tyler is proposing..... chopping is what rednecks do.
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brianinslc
Sep 30, 2002, 5:27 PM
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Who raps from the top of Sasquatch anyhoo? Walk off into Coal pit gully...easy downclimb.
Where was the new climb you did? Right of Flashdance (PP direct)??
I noted chain anchors at the top of the newer bolted line (climber's right of the large pine). Is this the bolt anchor you're referring to?
Guess I need to get over there and check it out...
There's been a bunch of newer bolting in LCC lately. New route on the Egg, new line to the right of Tarzan, and bolts on the "Mantle Variation" to Schoolroom (was always a solo before). Ugh. Any idea who's been doin' these routes? I think the Mantle Variation bolts were TC's?
Email me off line if you prefer, Tyler...
Thanks!
Brian in SLC
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k9rocko
Sep 30, 2002, 9:55 PM
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Although we might not agree on everything.... I agree, and don't want to see Pentapitch full of bolts.
SLC has seen some immigration of climbers from different areas. To quote one... "I can't believe these lines aren't bolted". I am not anti-bolt, but I think some restraint is due.
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drector
Sep 30, 2002, 10:42 PM
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Playing devils advocate, do you think it is okay to trash the bark on a tree which may eventually kill it or is it better to put in a few bolts which ultimately hurt nothing but your keen sense of ethics? Maybe the bolters are tree huggers? How would you argue in favor of destroying the tree and the habitat it might provide?
Dave
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dirtbag
Oct 4, 2002, 3:53 PM
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T
Chopem'
T
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bluedubbed
Oct 4, 2002, 4:26 PM
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It sad to see such a great trad climbing area such as the Pentapitch get all bolted up. This must be fairly recent since I was up doing those same routes about 3 weeks ago and didn't see the new drilling. Chop 'em.
Mick.
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climbjs
Oct 4, 2002, 11:13 PM
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Chop and fill, Tyler. Chop and fill.
Someone will run into the idiots that do these things and drill a bolt into their heads!
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fixxervi6
Oct 5, 2002, 12:02 AM
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Chop
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moonshine
Oct 17, 2002, 4:23 PM
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the next time i do pentapitch/sasquatch, i WILL pull that piton on the last pitch if it's still there. i have free soloed that pitch several times and last june some one put a piton on it-on a 5.8 move 12 feet fm a bomber anchor!! re: rap slings vs new anchors, my preference is no chains, but splurging on the LARGE metolius hangers that you can rap fm. less visible and it keeps idiots fm toproping on chains.
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prana
Oct 18, 2002, 9:42 PM
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What is a 'Traditional climbing area'? Shall we define that which seems to be at the heart of this discussion? Or for that matter 'traditional' climbing in general?
Kudos to those out there that identified the imminent damage to the trees on the Pentapitch buttress. and shame on the person that drilled the bolt on the third pitch of pentapitch...what a scar on a nice line.
Inflammatory? I hope so...bring it on!
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prana
Oct 18, 2002, 10:01 PM
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Oh yeah while I am at it....can somebody refresh my memory as to why toproping of chains is stupid...this appears to be a 'no-brainer' so I am sure that a few readers my be able to enlighten me.
yours truly,
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climbjs
Oct 18, 2002, 10:31 PM
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Moonshine- if you're refering to the pin on pitch 5 of Pentapitch, it was not placed there last year. I first climbed Pentapitch 3 years ago, and it was there then. I don't care if you soloed it or not. The utility of that pin is to protect the potentially horrible pendalum whipper someone would take if they fell, while placing gear where the pin was. The pin is logically placed. It is not your right to remove it. If you don't like it, don't clip it. All we need is a vigilante who is pulling pins off of classic climbs, simply because he can "solo it". You show a tremendous disrespect to climbing and the people who had the balls to attempt first ascents.
[ This Message was edited by: climbjs on 2002-10-18 15:32 ]
[ This Message was edited by: climbjs on 2002-10-18 15:33 ]
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veep23
Oct 18, 2002, 11:01 PM
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Prana, toproping on chains is stupid when you run the rope through the chains as opposed to setting up a system through the bolts. The reason why? Because it wears the links down after the millionth time a weighted rope runs through it. We've all seen the bottom link that is paperthin.
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alpinerocket
Oct 22, 2002, 3:10 AM
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Moonshine- I would also like to enlighten you on some history of the last pitch of Penta.
I was told that there was once a tree, several years ago that could be slinged for protection near that "pin". IMO the "pin" nearly restores the route into the origial condition of the first accent. I have climbed the route when the "pin" wasnt there and climbed it just fine, but I do clip it now instead of putting in a cheesy #1-2 nut. Hope this helps and if my source of history in wrong sorry.
John
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feelio
Oct 22, 2002, 5:02 AM
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I can't hold back any longer.
That last pitch on pentapitch used to be one of the best in the canyon for the grade (IMHO). Run-out fun friction off a GREAT bolt, but all there, and then yes, a hail merry bush, great fingers, then nice sequency edges to the top. I also lead it the spring after the bush was destroyed by rockfall, and there was No pin or bush...runout,not even daring to step on the slick stump and even more rewarding when I finally got into the locks and some gear. And yes, the first time I saw the pin up there in the middle of those great moves...I was bummed. Bummed that the character of the route had been "safened up", and no one else would get teh same experience of stepping up to this thin fingers, with a nice swing below them. It stole great memories from me. This is just like "endless torment"...there used to be no pin, and a wild series of moves off of a great brassie. Now someone replaced the pin ( or so they say it was restored to original condition?) and also chipped a chunk outta the flake that made a fun move easier. I climbed it both ways...and yes the pinless ascent onsight was more memorable.
All I am saying is that they (pins in LCC) come and go, but don't go blasting them out just cause they are there, that too would just make a scar (or a better nut placement :-). Better yet, place small gear, and don't clip that pin if you want to feel elitist(though we all know it's never quite teh same). sheez.....
As for JG and the drill, thanks for kicking down some time and effort for all our safety James, but drilling in the canyonsseems to be getting more and more regular. Let's just keep the Tony Calderone minded types outta the canyon. God what didn't that guy bolt just to "comfortize" descents. Not to slam Tony, he was the first to replace large scale amounts of bad bolts(thanks tony!)...but he also kinda got outta hand . Bolted "trad" belays, I mean isn't that enough? I mean..are we entering the age of bolted slab squeeze plays? lets enjoy the lines that are there..most of them are way bolder than the newer routes anyway......
Climb safe all.
[ This Message was edited by: feelio on 2002-10-21 22:12 ]
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alpinerocket
Oct 27, 2002, 12:10 AM
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Feelio, well said! John
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