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Poll: solo climbing
jj 1 / 20%
jj 2 / 40%
jj 2 / 40%
5 total votes
 

kellula


Jul 12, 2007, 9:19 AM
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solo climbing
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Hello

I have a huge rock in my garden (about 30 feet high) which is perfect for climbing. I live in the mountains and am surrounded by great routes but my climbing partner can only climb at weekends. I really want to make better use of this fantastic rock in my garden for training but it's not a great shape for traversing. Is there any way that I can secure myself so that I can train every day?

I once climbed one of those climbing walls at a shopping centre where you can earn money if you reach a certain point. It was many years ago but I am positive there was nobody belaying me. What kind of device could they have been using and would it be available to the general public?

Thanks,

Kellula


overlord


Jul 12, 2007, 9:43 AM
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Re: [kellula] solo climbing [In reply to]
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first get a good book on building anchors. or, if its on your property, just use bolts for anchors.

then learn how to solo top-rope.


deane


Jul 12, 2007, 11:21 AM
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Re: [kellula] solo climbing [In reply to]
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If you have a ton of extra cash, check out this bad boy.
http://www.edgewalls.com/AutoBelay.htm


nepaclimber


Jul 12, 2007, 12:03 PM
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Re: [deane] solo climbing [In reply to]
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buy a crash pad and if you got a ton of extra cash get 2


marcuder


Jul 12, 2007, 12:15 PM
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Re: [deane] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Holy crap! 1,800$?! C'mon!

Otherwise a brilliant idea. So I guess it works like one of those dog-leash dispensers, with car seat-belt breaking mechanism? Interesting idea, though I'd be really worried so many mechanical parts....


Partner sevrdhed


Jul 12, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Re: [marcuder] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Yeah, 30 feet isn't that tall, get a couple of crashpads and boulder it. It'll get your head in shape too.


pro_alien


Jul 12, 2007, 12:53 PM
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Re: [kellula] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Dang, I should be so lucky...

Just set up a bomber anchor at the top, and drop down a rope. Put some weight at the bottom, and self-belay with a Grigri or similar.

Also look for the excellent posts by healye on solo climbing (mostly lead solo, which is a different can of worms).


kellula


Jul 12, 2007, 6:08 PM
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Re: [pro_alien] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Sorry to be stupid but what do you mean by putting some weight at the bottom?
In reply to:
I already have a grigri so I'd prefer to find some way of using that rather than something new.

Thanks for your advice.

Kellula


kellula


Jul 12, 2007, 6:12 PM
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And yes, pro alien, I know I'm VERY lucky. The house itself is falling down but I fell in love with the rock. I'll post a picture some time.

Kellula


rc_vinay


Jul 12, 2007, 6:23 PM
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Re: [deane] solo climbing [In reply to]
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how dose it function....it looks like some kind of winch device.


boku


Jul 12, 2007, 8:18 PM
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Re: [marcuder] solo climbing [In reply to]
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marcuder wrote:
Holy crap! 1,800$?! C'mon!

Otherwise a brilliant idea. So I guess it works like one of those dog-leash dispensers, with car seat-belt breaking mechanism? Interesting idea, though I'd be really worried so many mechanical parts....

The Redpoint descender units are pretty well engineered and well made. They have a very well established service history in climbing gyms around the world.

If you can develop, engineer, manufacture, and distribute a better and/or cheaper auto belay unit, you should do so.

Thanks, Bob "BoKu" K.


marcuder


Jul 12, 2007, 8:42 PM
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Re: [boku] solo climbing [In reply to]
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boku wrote:
marcuder wrote:
Holy crap! 1,800$?! C'mon!

Otherwise a brilliant idea. So I guess it works like one of those dog-leash dispensers, with car seat-belt breaking mechanism? Interesting idea, though I'd be really worried so many mechanical parts....

The Redpoint descender units are pretty well engineered and well made. They have a very well established service history in climbing gyms around the world.

If you can develop, engineer, manufacture, and distribute a better and/or cheaper auto belay unit, you should do so.

Thanks, Bob "BoKu" K.

I did some research and found they had a recall a while ago... so it's not without a potential for failure.


boku


Jul 12, 2007, 8:51 PM
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Re: [marcuder] solo climbing [In reply to]
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"marcuder wrote:
I did some research and found they had a recall a while ago... so it's not without a potential for failure.

Recalls are often a sign that things are as they should be. A defect was found, and a process was developed to ameliorate it.

One can argue that the set of man made things without potential for failure is empty.

Thanks, Bob K.


pro_alien


Jul 12, 2007, 8:57 PM
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Re: [kellula] solo climbing [In reply to]
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kellula wrote:
Sorry to be stupid but what do you mean by putting some weight at the bottom?

Optional, this will help pull the rope through the grigri. You could also use an ascender instead, but I would be wary about what the teeth will do to the rope when you fall on it...


marcuder


Jul 12, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Re: [boku] solo climbing [In reply to]
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boku wrote:
"marcuder wrote:
I did some research and found they had a recall a while ago... so it's not without a potential for failure.

Recalls are often a sign that things are as they should be. A defect was found, and a process was developed to ameliorate it.

One can argue that the set of man made things without potential for failure is empty.

Thanks, Bob K.

Then you agree with my statement, thanks...


Fly


Jul 12, 2007, 10:51 PM
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Re: [kellula] solo climbing [In reply to]
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I solo top rope all the time using a Petzl shunt which has not failed me yet even after some big wipe outs Wink


stymingersfink


Jul 13, 2007, 10:26 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: [Fly] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Forrest Gump's Mamma always told me

Fly wrote:
I solo top rope all the time using a Petzl shunt which has not failed me yet even after some big wipe outs Wink


Just because you have not personally witnessed a catastrophic failure does not mean one is outside the realm of probability.


In reply to:
RA_Testing_Paper Pages 5&6


Petzl Shunt

The Petzl Shunt is the most common rope
access back-up device in use world-wide.
The device is a “mechanical-prussik”
originally designed to back up rappel
devices for recreational users. It can also
be classified as an ascender. While the use
of the Shunt in the industrial environment
has been controversial from the beginning,
and is clearly outside of its original design
parameters, the 2001 Lyon Equipment
report raised serious concerns about the Shunt’s ability to adequately withstand the
forces subjected to it during a fall. The Lyon
testing showed that slippage distances were
excessive and the Shunt was prone to
detaching from the rope if a knot was encountered before the device came to a stop.
The data from the Lyon Report led us to expect poor results from the Shunt,
however our testing showed otherwise. In our tests, the Shunt proved to be one of
our most consistent performers on the 11mm ropes (measured diameter) yielding
low impact forces and reasonable slippage distances.
The Shunt performed poorly on the Beal 10.5mm (10.1 measured diameter),
confirming the results of the Lyon Testing.
In all three cases the device slipped in
excess of 3 meters before hitting the knot. In order to give the Shunt every
opportunity to perform on the Beal rope, we tested it in a factor 1 fall using a 1
meter dynamic rope lanyard (cow’s tail), replicating the most realistic one-person
field configuration. Again, the Shunt performed poorly, allowing the test weight to
drop nearly 3.5 meters. It hit the knot on the first drop at 2.3 meters. This led us to
conclude that the Shunt should NOT be used as a back-up when paired with ropes of
similar diameter to the Beal 10.5 mm.
The 200kg, factor 1 tests showed some of the Shunt’s limitations. We didn’t bother
testing the Shunt on the Beal rope with the 2-person load. The Shunt hit the knot
and detached from the rope on one of one drops on the thinner Blue Water rope and
one of two drops on the PMI 11 mm. The Shunt performed remarkably well on the
thicker Sterling HTP (11.6 measured diameter). The reasonable conclusion is that
the Shunt performs better on ropes of larger diameter.
The Shunt will not conform to the requirements of the U.S. fall protection standards
because of it has a relatively weak body, it can be defeated by the user, and it does
not self-trail. However, at this point the Shunt should still provide a safe option for a
rope access technician provided it is paired with the correct rope diameter and
proper operator training.


© Ropeworks, Inc and U.S. Bureau of Reclamation 6
Report available in electronic format at http://www.ropeworks.us

edited to correct quote attribution


(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jul 14, 2007, 3:22 AM)


Fly


Jul 14, 2007, 3:32 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Thank you for that, it is easy to take things for granted and my rope is a Beal 10.50, I will look around for another thingy to arrest a free solo rappel


shockabuku


Jul 14, 2007, 4:10 AM
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Re: [Fly] solo climbing [In reply to]
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What do you mean by big wipe out on a top rope solo?


Fly


Jul 14, 2007, 6:54 AM
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Climbimg off route with a overhang


stymingersfink


Jul 14, 2007, 5:35 PM
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Re: [Fly] solo climbing [In reply to]
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Fly wrote:
Thank you for that, it is easy to take things for granted and my rope is a Beal 10.50, I will look around for another thingy to arrest a free solo rappel
petzl makes another fine piece of equipment which many have found works well, both for TR and lead roped-soloing.

search healyje's posts for good information on some techniques and dangers.


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