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lewdsilver
Jul 16, 2007, 9:47 PM
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rob - you headed to CR Wed this week?
-c
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losbill
Jul 17, 2007, 12:14 AM
Post #19402 of 22774
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Is it true, or is it just a vicious rumor, that there is a small volcano at the top of Farley that periodically spews forth lava flows that incinerate the unaware and uninitiated climber?
(This post was edited by losbill on Jul 17, 2007, 12:16 AM)
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orangekyak
Jul 17, 2007, 1:25 AM
Post #19403 of 22774
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Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England.
5. Farley
4. Rumvegas
3. Franconia Notch
2. Gunks
1. Cathedral/Whitehorse
Your lists may vary.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 17, 2007, 1:41 AM
Post #19404 of 22774
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orangekyak wrote: Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England. 5. Farley 4. Rumvegas 3. Franconia Notch 2. Gunks 1. Cathedral/Whitehorse Your lists may vary.
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lewdsilver
Jul 17, 2007, 2:01 AM
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orangekyak wrote: Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England. 5. Farley 4. Rumvegas 3. Franconia Notch 2. Gunks 1. Cathedral/Whitehorse Your lists may vary.
I think this begs the real qustion J, what are the best from 1-5?
(This post was edited by lewdsilver on Jul 17, 2007, 2:03 AM)
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jakedatc
Jul 17, 2007, 2:25 AM
Post #19406 of 22774
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lewdsilver wrote: orangekyak wrote: Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England. 5. Farley 4. Rumvegas 3. Franconia Notch 2. Gunks 1. Cathedral/Whitehorse Your lists may vary. I think this begs the real qustion J, what are the best from 1-5?
5. QQ prior to spray paint
4. QQ post spray paint, prior to water drainage
3. QQ post spray paint, post water drainage, prior to "beautification"
2. Slab behind Stop and Shop (sorry rob ;) )
1. my new wallie in it's state of 6 holdness (though i did put up the black light so the so ill holds glow.. no i'm not a stoner :P just.. easily amused)
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robbovius
Jul 17, 2007, 11:43 AM
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I"m sorry jer, but Farley continues to be the worst place I've ever climbed.
farley sucks, and so do the Gunks. if ya know what I mean. My coworker climbing buddy Jeff went to farley and succeeded on an .11b, which of course, was very dissapointing, since he'd only ever led .9s on bolts before. he was so depressed he came into my office and described the climb-move for-move. it was awful. I felt so bad for him.
Last nigth I drove out to CR - in chorus, everyone, "so like, what else is new, Robb? "- and happened upon a good group of 10-15 folks, many of whom I'd met there before (Chris, Chad, TJ, Bob, Chris the Iraq Vet, a few others) . I wound up partnering most of the evening with a woman named Brooke, who was very game for climbing the hard shiat. I set up my half rope over the detached arrowhead monolith/"spire" (the contrived crimp-only face climb line, which is listed in Boston Rocks as an .11, believe it or not, though it's not shown in the diagrams)
Brooke figured out this variation which started up under the right-hand overhang, went up some bigger holds to the top of the ledge just below the monolith, and then made the move out from under the overhang to the face and then up the crimps. Fun moves BTW. Brooke suceeded in fine style. on my first try, I fell off up at the top (where the feet get REALLY thin), and then on the second try ran out of fingers up at the top, and so cheated up the last 3-4 feet buy grabbing the arrettes on either side.
I'm going to have to start taping it seems, my first knuckles ache badly after struggling on crimpy hard things - hurting as I type this in fact, this whole aging thing continues to suck hairy donkey ass thru a straw. after some recovery time, cruised a couple .9s, did a couple variations of the send-money line, the heel hook finish to Almost cut my hair (with the fab flake start) and a few other faves. hooked back up with Brooke for a thrash-fest on Littel Devil. thru several tries, she was able to make it to the second (bigger) horn, and I was just able to get a finger on it after several tries...
I feel like I coudl hold on to the hands holds, but the footwork eluded me.
shiat man, look at me, getting up on an .11. I must be nuts. ;-)
earlier in the evening, while I was setting my anchor, Brooke found a piece of womens' jewelry just above More Money. it might be expensive, or it might not, but I thought I'd post it up here to see if anyone has lost anything. PM me, describe it.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 17, 2007, 1:04 PM)
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jakedatc
Jul 17, 2007, 3:05 PM
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Nice rob.. lil devil has funky foot work unless you are tall like Ed or Eric.. can't really describe it.
so ill holds are fun in the black light.. glowybouldering4lyfe
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robbovius
Jul 17, 2007, 7:25 PM
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Jake, that was the problem I felt I was really having. I was able to get my hnads onto the holds under the wave without any real trouble, but once I got to teh undercling in the corner and the next hand wold have been the bigger horn, I just couldn't figure out the footwork...not in the 4 tries I made anyway.
Lewd, with anyluck on wed night I'll be setting up camp at the Gunks MUA, so sorry but no, no CR for me the rest of this week. next monday though, weather permitting, yeah.
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robbovius
Jul 17, 2007, 7:30 PM
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losbill wrote: Is it true, or is it just a vicious rumor, that there is a small volcano at the top of Farley that periodically spews forth lava flows that incinerate the unaware and uninitiated climber?
yes, also there are vampires. remember the sandworms from the movie "Dune"? yup, them too.
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jakedatc
Jul 17, 2007, 8:35 PM
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Rob.. you need to go big undercling R hand.. to small horn(L hand) big horn(R hand) then R foot high step out right then L foot kinda high under that arete the horns are on, drop knee L. L hand kinda gaston on the sidepull. Bump L to kinda > shaped hold. R hand to slot.. pull up.. reach high for jug.. top out. yea.. done that a few times :)
Just get on stuff there.. everything is sequence and body position. I think you have the crimp strength to pull stuff.. you just need to work out the moves so you're not stalled on anything for very long.
who you rockin the gunks with rob.. hopefully you don't get rained on.. the weather everywhere looks like crap this week and weekend
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robbovius
Jul 18, 2007, 11:36 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Rob.. you need to go big undercling R hand.. to small horn(L hand) big horn(R hand) then R foot high step out right then L foot kinda high under that arete the horns are on, drop knee L. L hand kinda gaston on the sidepull. Bump L to kinda > shaped hold. R hand to slot.. pull up.. reach high for jug.. top out. yea.. done that a few times :) Just get on stuff there.. everything is sequence and body position. I think you have the crimp strength to pull stuff.. you just need to work out the moves so you're not stalled on anything for very long. who you rockin the gunks with rob.. hopefully you don't get rained on.. the weather everywhere looks like crap this week and weekend
I think my gunks plans are getting rained out, is what I think right now. I was partnering with a coworker I met thru the company "Our Employees at Play" exhibit last winter, where I showed off my climbing gear, some climbing pics, and demo-ed belay technique off a railing ;-) guy named jeff paquette, he's a bit stronger than me (might just be that he's 30 lbs lighter, y'know?) and pushes me a bit which is what I need right now.
the weather is absolutely looking sucky. yesterday there were a couple sites calling for 30% PoP out there, but niow it's all 60-70% chance of rain wed thru friday. not really interested in driving 210 miles just to camp in the rain.
your beta sounds like what i was trying to do, but I was having a prblem getting my right hand from the UCling to the big horn...I felt off balance and like I'd peel if i let go with my right, and the big horn was about 6-8 inches too far away for me to just grab. I need to do something with my footwork right there to get the right foot up higher and farther out to the right to oppose the left hand sidepulling on the little horn.
now, I remember seeing people do that drop knee thing. yea,h, I feel pretty confident about holding onto the handholds. like most tuff at college it's sequency and technical. I was looking in the BR guide last night and realized that there's another .9 right to teh left of Littel Devil that I have to get on as well. the goal has become, wire all the .9s at college, and get up at least one .10 before my right hand carpal tunnel release surgery on 9/4 . ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 19, 2007, 2:31 PM)
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orangekyak
Jul 20, 2007, 6:16 PM
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lewdsilver wrote: orangekyak wrote: Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England. 5. Farley 4. Rumvegas 3. Franconia Notch 2. Gunks 1. Cathedral/Whitehorse Your lists may vary. I think this begs the real qustion J, what are the best from 1-5?
In my opinion, the best places to climb in New England are as follows.
5. (tie) Berlin Boulder/Bates Boulder
4. Connecticut
3. Some mosquitoey boulders Zeb J. showed me one time
2. Most of the "crags" added to the most recently published version of Boston Rocks
1. Lookout Rock
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Gmburns2000
Jul 20, 2007, 6:34 PM
Post #19416 of 22774
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orangekyak wrote: lewdsilver wrote: orangekyak wrote: Based on my limited experience, here is MY list of the 5 WORST places to climb "in" New England. 5. Farley 4. Rumvegas 3. Franconia Notch 2. Gunks 1. Cathedral/Whitehorse Your lists may vary. I think this begs the real qustion J, what are the best from 1-5? In my opinion, the best places to climb in New England are as follows. 5. (tie) Berlin Boulder/Bates Boulder 4. Connecticut 3. Some mosquitoey boulders Zeb J. showed me one time 2. Most of the "crags" added to the most recently published version of Boston Rocks 1. Lookout Rock
Haven't seen Precipice or South Bubble on anyone's lists yet, but I'm gonna throw them out there as well as Cathedral, Rumney and I kind of like Crow Hill too.
Now, if we're allowed to use the Gunks as a "New England" crag, why not the 'Dacks too? If so, Beer Walls replaces Crow Hill.
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nurocks
Jul 21, 2007, 8:00 PM
Post #19417 of 22774
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So...I was energetically welcomed back to NE climbing this morning. I went to QQ with Piotr around 9:30AM and was welcomed by a large number of very energetic bees half way up Double Overhang, ("lower....lower...shit-fuckin' lower me"). To avoid this, were were going to head to Knight's wall, only to learn that there were numerous bee/wasp residences there aswell. I don't remember the flying stinging things to be a problem there ever before. Is this a new development?
Anyway, I managed to get up several routes with little hangdogging. Most notably, I got up Bloodstreaks clean. I don't believe it happened, but Piotr said it did. I'll take it. A few more trips outside, and I think I'll dust of my rack and try taking the sharp end again.
I hope to get out next saturday again. If I'm going to have a "tradclimber body", I should probably develop a leadhead, and some ability to go with it...or at least climb enough to lose enough weight to become a beenie wearing sport weenie. Eitherway, it would be an improvement over my current condition.
Later,
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Gmburns2000
Jul 21, 2007, 10:42 PM
Post #19418 of 22774
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nurocks wrote: So...I was energetically welcomed back to NE climbing this morning. I went to QQ with Piotr around 9:30AM and was welcomed by a large number of very energetic bees half way up Double Overhang, ("lower....lower...shit-fuckin' lower me"). To avoid this, were were going to head to Knight's wall, only to learn that there were numerous bee/wasp residences there aswell. I don't remember the flying stinging things to be a problem there ever before. Is this a new development?
Yeah, there's been nests all over the place the past couple of years. And the thing that sucks is some of the nests are in little finger pockets that you can't see into well from below. I've been lucky in being on the ground when my partners have found them. I like my partners.
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jakedatc
Jul 22, 2007, 2:32 AM
Post #19419 of 22774
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Kate and I hit up LW today since the weather was nice and the air wasn't too humid. Had a fun time.. almost no climbers out.. which is normal for summer but still a bit surprising.
Video of me on Pond cave traverse sorry for the graininess.. but impressive camera work by kate using my cell.. it's almost like she went to school for that crap ;)
http://smg.photobucket.com/...current=ec6875c7.flv
went down onto the home wall after dinner and discovered i pulled a muscle in my lower abs somewhere along the line today(probably on the foot cutting move).. ouch!
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RiverRat812
Jul 22, 2007, 2:05 PM
Post #19420 of 22774
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Gmburns2000 wrote: nurocks wrote: So...I was energetically welcomed back to NE climbing this morning. I went to QQ with Piotr around 9:30AM and was welcomed by a large number of very energetic bees half way up Double Overhang, ("lower....lower...shit-fuckin' lower me"). To avoid this, were were going to head to Knight's wall, only to learn that there were numerous bee/wasp residences there aswell. I don't remember the flying stinging things to be a problem there ever before. Is this a new development? Yeah, there's been nests all over the place the past couple of years. And the thing that sucks is some of the nests are in little finger pockets that you can't see into well from below. I've been lucky in being on the ground when my partners have found them. I like my partners.
Greeting from a first time poster...
Nurocks, I was the other climber on the Reflector Oven yesterday morning. I also encountered a fairly large Paper Wasp nest under the large flake on Starlight. Luckily Paper Wasps are not as aggressive as Yellowjackets, so unless you directly disturb the nest, they probably won't attack you. Always a good idea to inspect the route as much as possible before you climb it.
The nest at the top of Knights is a Yellowjacket nest and they are hyper-aggressive right now since this is the height of the reproductive season for them. It is in the larger cinderblock/brick anchor pad at the top of Knights. The nest is in the south side, tucked into a drill hole. They whacked a climber setting an anchor above the bolt ladder 3 or 4 times in 30 seconds... even though the colony is about 20 feet away from where he was.
Good news, they will not be guarding the nest as aggressively in the next 2-4 weeks after all the larvae hatch, watch your step around there until then.
Oh, and don't forget your Epi-pen if you are allergic!
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notch
Jul 22, 2007, 2:15 PM
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robbovius
Jul 22, 2007, 3:24 PM
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Jason glad you got out, too bad about the hornets/wasps. I'm sorta glad I haven't gone to QQ this summer, stinging insects suck.
hey it you wanna work on your lead head, any interest in heading out to Purgatory next saturday for some single pitch action?
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 22, 2007, 3:25 PM)
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core
Jul 22, 2007, 5:15 PM
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For those OW lovers out there, I took this picture of cracklover yesterday:
"When do I get gear again?" or "I hope those clouds pass quickly!"
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nurocks
Jul 22, 2007, 7:08 PM
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BEAUTIFUL.
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core
Jul 22, 2007, 8:26 PM
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Here's some background info on that pic...
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