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robbovius
Jul 31, 2007, 1:33 PM
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FYI, I will be raging up College Rock this comeing wed evening, and quite possibly thrusday too, for a session with my son.
had a short session there sunday afternoon with my middle daugther Caitlin adn her BF Dan, (before the thunder adn lightning chased us out.) Caitie seems into it, keeping my fingers crossed.
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jakedatc
Jul 31, 2007, 2:49 PM
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Nice rob.. Saturday kate and i spent a good chunk of time on the wall. Which was nice because it's also the coldest place in the house. Even the jug routes are still V1+ due to the overhang. it's amazing how bad good hold feel at 40 degrees
looks like wed and thurs i'll be up at rumney with Lauren.. i can't wait to drop an old proj. and pick up a bunch of new ones.
weekend should be filled with rumney goodness also. anyone else going up?
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robbovius
Jul 31, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Jake yeah, I was psyched, she had asked me when I was going becasue she and dan wanted to come out and have a go. she seemed very motivated, into practicing belaying skills multiplie laps. I thru my half-rope over the .5-ish face climb about 15 feet left of the south-end overhang. Know where I mean? it was good times, we could hear thunder the entire time we were there. at one point Caitie was roping up for another lap and the thunder got really loud, and the sky darkened quickly, we all looked at each other packed up and bailed.
lately I've goten quite adept at finding cracks for gear in places where there doesn' seem to be any at CR. judiscious use of the nut tool to clean out moss works wonders. ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 31, 2007, 2:58 PM)
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rhonius
Jul 31, 2007, 3:33 PM
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jakedatc wrote: weekend should be filled with rumney goodness also. anyone else going up?
I think that my roommate and I are going to headed up for saturday
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jakedatc
Jul 31, 2007, 8:49 PM
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Also if anyone is up for Thurs afternoon and friday that would be kick ass.. PM me
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nurocks
Aug 1, 2007, 2:24 AM
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So...I'm OSHA training all week and I get out at 3:30. Because of this Piotr and I are going to be hitting up Black and White rocks tomorrow. Anyone been there? Got any personal recomendations? Wanna join?
That's all.
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orangekyak
Aug 1, 2007, 2:31 AM
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nurocks wrote: So...I'm OSHA training all week and I get out at 3:30. Because of this Piotr and I are going to be hitting up Black and White rocks tomorrow. Anyone been there? Got any personal recomendations? Wanna join? That's all.
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nurocks
Aug 1, 2007, 2:36 AM
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ouch...really?
That is the most proximal place to Piotr and I that won't involve sitting in traffic. So...we are going to give it a try...but trying to make the best of it.
Any other recommendations?
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robbovius
Aug 1, 2007, 11:21 AM
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FYI, I'l be at Colleger ROck tonight after work, gettign there between 5-5:30, and closing the joint.
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cracklover
Aug 1, 2007, 3:56 PM
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nurocks wrote: ouch...really? That is the most proximal place to Piotr and I that won't involve sitting in traffic. So...we are going to give it a try...but trying to make the best of it. Any other recommendations?
There actually are some nice climbs at the B&W rocks. It's mostly only a real beginner area, but there are some climbs up to 5.9 or so that are worth doing. Sorry, don't have book in front of me, and haven't been there in years, so can't remember names of crags or climbs.
One sec, I think I can track something down...
I'll PM you whatever details I find.
GO
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reid
Aug 1, 2007, 11:20 PM
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I hope I am posting correctly - new user darn it.
I had a mtn bike trip planned and partner bailed... am looking for someone to climb with for an odd time period...
got pass from wife for sun mon and/or tues Aug 5-7...
I live near boston and would love a trip ANYWHERE!!!
me: sane, safe, easy going, funny (so my friends say) and new leader. GREAT Seconder! clean up to 5.8 or 9. Working on 10's in gym.
best to email or call me...
617 901 8588 mobile/text
joe dot reid@verizon dot net
thanks!!!
joe
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nurocks
Aug 2, 2007, 2:57 AM
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Thanks for the replys. Gabe thanks for the constructive reply. You are infact correct that it is a true beginer area. I think thats why I'm going back.
I got there today, and walked to Crag 6...trying to dodge poison ivy and thorns. Couldn't recognise any of the faces when compared to the guidebook. I hiked around to the top and found one piton hammered into a crack on an 80' face. I couldn't see any of the climb and couldn't ID it, so I'll put that one on hold.
I picked up Piotr at Oak Grove after my exporation and we headed to the Crag 1-5 area. Wanted to toprope but found a lack of usable trees and minimal places for pro on the tops of the two walls we got on.
We managed to find two different manky crack systems, set 4 pieces, equalize and had at it for a while on some SIMPLE 5.boring.
To get out before dark we ended our climbing after that route and decided to hike around and try to find some more climable stuff for the next time. Sucess. We found 4-5, Simple, well protected cracks where I hope to hone my pathetic lead head. On our next visit.
So nothing special today, but I'm going back.
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2007, 11:26 AM
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First things first
for anyone going to College Rock in the near future beware of the HORNETS which have set up house keeping in the ground, under a rock, 3 feet away from the direct start of the .11 face/roof line, My Mind is a Blank.
those bastiges got me twice last night. I'm probably going to get a big old can of wasp and hornet killer and wipe them out, btu that wont' happen until the weekend most likely.
Jason, good deal. I've actually only done one trad climb this year so far, out at Farley. trying to get out more before my carpal tunnel surgery on 9/4, but it's not looking real good...
on the other hadnm, I am climbing stronger this year than I have in 18 months, so it's all good I suppose.
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taualum23
Aug 2, 2007, 4:06 PM
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HEY EVERYBODY!
Time for my annual (or so) check in with my old Mass buddies. I'm still out in CT, getting abck in shape, finally just about back to my pre law-school condition. I am working mildly stupid hours, but loving the work (just got named Chief Compliance Officer of an investment advisory firm). On the off chance I am ever aboe to get out more than an hour from the house, I'll be sure to touch back in.
Miss you all! Hope everyone is doing wonderfully.
Much peace.
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robbovius
Aug 2, 2007, 5:09 PM
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hjeeeey stranger! glad youre' doing well! stay kewl!
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rhonius
Aug 2, 2007, 6:07 PM
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Ok so what are people's favorite 10's up at Rumney? I know some of the favorites Jolt, No Money Down, Waimea etc.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 2, 2007, 6:09 PM
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rhonius wrote: Ok so what are people's favorite 10's up at Rumney? I know some of the favorites Jolt, No Money Down, Waimea etc.
Lonesome Dove
War and Peace (or is it Masterpiece - I get them confused - the one to the left)
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jakedatc
Aug 3, 2007, 4:28 AM
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Masterpiece. Armed and Dangerous, Peer pressure, Espresso, Juan Valdez , the bolt line just right of Bonehead Roof are my top choices.
Mini TR
Drove up tues. night and crashed at wally world.
Met up with Lauren wednesday and hit up parking lot wall to get started. warmed up on Quinn/Callahan. Moved over and did Juan Valdez and set a top rope on 100% columbian to work out the moves. Originally i wasn't going to try but she went first and it looked really fun so i got on and it's been added to the project list. We watched 2 quebequois girls working Espresso.. one girl cruised it first go that we saw.. the other girl got it 2nd burn and was crazy psyched about it.
Then we headed to Jimmy cliff to once again tackle Things as they are now.. few burns and i stuck the deadpoint.. then i kept popping off the high step move . got pissed off and lowered off.. lauren gave it a few goes with my beta and variations of that for the bottom but went over and led Beginning of all things instead and then i cleaned it to get my couple draws off the other route.
Went over to Bonsai to get on steep jugs.. Got on Centerpiece "10d" and let me tell you.. i hung all over that thing.. with only a little french influence i topped out.. then lauren cleaned it with far fewer hangs. I was promised Swimming when i got to the top.. there was swimming when we got down.. river was awesome. which is saying alot for me since i don't ever.. ever get in.
Dinner at the Diner. tasty tasty... bed.. sweet.. bed :crash:
Thurs: deadline.. she had to leave by noon-ish.. cranked out early.. headed straight up to Lower New Wave and cruised up Couch Potato and then Son of Sammy (my favorite 8 at rumney i think) then moved up to Orange crush and decided Black Mamba was our mission of the day.. 11b to the first anchor.. 11c if you keep going like 5 more bolts to the top. 1 hanged the bottom and was rudely pwned on the upper part.. insecure, inobvious moves. all worth the hangs to get to climb this 4x4' flake at the top through a V gap in the overhang haha
Lauren cleaned it with a few hangs. Decided for one more route before leaving.. she led Debbie does CPR with one hang.. i'm confident she'd have flashed it on a fresh day. I led it and only sketched a bit on the mantle due to some fairly slick crystals but i worked it out.
Said our good byes in the parking lot.. then i went up to the meadows and found someone to belay me up Lies and Propaganda.. she tried to TR it after but was too tired from another route so i TR'd it and called it good enough for the day. went swimming.. chatted with a quebequois guy who was really funny (and crazy strong climber.. working 13's in 90+ heat) Drove home instead of sticking around being bored for 5-6 hours till it was dark enough to sleep.
Good times Lauren!! wooot we shall have to climb again. 100% is going Dowwwn maybe i'll see ya sat.
yea.. going back up tomorrow night with my friend Jon. we shall climb more routes and swimming if it's still warm enough.
pics of me on Peer pressure from June
 
 
http://smg.photobucket.com/...v115/Socjake/Rumney/
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Aug 3, 2007, 3:39 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 3, 2007, 4:31 AM
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rhonius wrote: Ok so what are people's favorite 10's up at Rumney? I know some of the favorites Jolt, No Money Down, Waimea etc.
Waimea (10d), Peer Pressure(10d), Idiot's Deluxe(10 b/c), and Lonesome Dove (10a) are the my favorites.
Josh
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rhonius
Aug 3, 2007, 3:52 PM
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Thanks guys we'll see how many of these I get done this weekend :)
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jakedatc
Aug 3, 2007, 4:03 PM
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you staying sunday too? I'll be camping across the street. i think my friend has a maroon saturn wagon. weather looks pretty good.. not as hot and a bit breezy.
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rhonius
Aug 3, 2007, 4:05 PM
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I think we will only be there for saturday but are going to drive up tonight and camp across the street too. Will be in a grey dodge durango.
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robbovius
Aug 5, 2007, 4:50 PM
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somtimes, solitude with the rock is best.
this season so far, for me, has been a College Rock year. I've felt stronger than I have since '05, pushed mysilf onto lines I can't do, but tried, and enjoyed it all.
saturday afternoon I went out to, where else, CR, and to my surprize found it absolutely empty. I had the place all to myself. so I left the ropes and gear in the trunk of the scoot and just played on the traverse, highballed several of the easy buttress lines (finding an awesome fist jam on the jagged overhangs next to "Exercise Left to the Reader". I live fistjamz4lyfe! ), did two variations of the "almost cut my hair" start (the .9+ flake, and the .8-ish hand travese up to the roof ledge) and worked a short .7 up at the north end. it was a nice chill relaxing afternoon, no copmpetitive pushing, no waits for anytthing, no extra fucking around with ropes, nothing but solitude and enjoyment. it was my personal playground for an afternoon
for all the plans I had to get away to the gunks or NoCO this year, it doesn't seem as though that was at all meant to be. I'm planning on one more away trip, maybe to farley, or maybe the franconia locale, but it may very well be that I spend this year in my back yard/CR...which hasn't been a bad thing at all.
I have until 9/04/07, after which I will be recovering from Carpal Tunnel Release surgery on my right hand, and will be out of climbing until november most likely.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 5, 2007, 4:53 PM)
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